If you've been reading MM&FF since 2010, then you've seen project Street Smart Windsor make the transformation from a ragged-out, bone-stock '89 GT to a slick street machine. The budget 359ci Windsor from Latemodel Restoration Supply, coupled with heads from RHS and a Trick Flow Specialties intake, pumped out 312 rwph and 365 lb-ft of torque through the stock T-5. On track, it went 13.06 at 106 mphùall with a stock-sounding, mild camshaft.
The purpose of the build was to maintain stock idle and driveability, while making 350-400 hp (at the crankshaft). We accomplished this with the engine swap, but for this to be the best daily driver it could be, we had to add more than just horsepower.
Since the engine swap and subsequent track test (July '10), SSW sat for about a year. We had most of the suspension components in hand but were waiting to install the brakes from Baer. A couple of issues ago, we installed the Baer brakes, along with a new clutch from Ram, a diff, 3.73 gears, and axles to complete the five-lug conversion. We also added the flashy Billet Specialties wheels and Firestone rubber from TireRack.com.
On the road course at Gainesville Raceway, it unpredictably crawled around the track to a best lap of 1:12.86, but averaged 1:13.53 over nine laps. With completely stock suspension, though, we couldn't complain. The power of the Windsor, grip of the oversized tires, and unyielding dependability of the Baer brakes made it perform leagues better than a stock Fox. But it wasn't to our liking. It was wobbly going into turns, and inconsistent coming out under acceleration.
Our next step was to install the new suspension components that have been waiting patiently, the centerpiece of which is a Watt's link from Fay's2. Owned and operated by Jim Fay, this innovative suspension company specializes in bolt-in Watt's links, and offers them for classic Mustangs as well as '79-present.
What is a Watt's link?
James Watt, one of the fathers of the Industrial Revolution, was a Scottish inventor and mechanical engineer. He discovered how to convert reciprocal engine motion to rotary motion, revolutionized the steam engine, and coined the term horsepower.
In the late 1700s, Watt invented a four-bar mechanical linkage that allows an object to be moved up and down on a relatively perpendicular axis to the outer mounting points by pivoting from the center "propeller." This design has been used in racing suspensions and street applications throughout the 20th century into today, but has never appeared on a production Mustang.
The point of the link is to locate the rearend (to prevent side-to-side motion) in relation to the chassis and maintain that position throughout the full operating range of the suspension (up and down), regardless of weight transfer caused by acceleration, braking, or turning. Other mechanisms, like a Panhard bar (which pivots from one side), are designed for the same purpose, but the Watt's is more effective. Some argue that the arc created by a Panhard bar is negligible, but the jury is still out on that one.
Why is it important?
Under extreme driving conditions, the triangulated four-link suspension on Fox-body and SN-95/New Edge Mustangs will move side to side. This is caused by deflection in the control arm bushings. Spherical ends help but significantly increase noise and ride harshness, and still don't eliminate lateral movement.
The Watt's link keeps the axle stationary (laterally), allowing the car to be more predictable both during the unloading of the rear suspension (braking/turning) and during the loading of the suspension (acceleration/turning). This gives the driver a more connected and confident feel.
Mount Up
Jim Fay takes pride in his product as a bolt-in option for racers and serious street drivers alike. Unlike most options, the Fay's2 bolts to the subframe without any welding or cutting. A few holes must be drilled, but the rest is just bolts, washers, and nuts.
To install ours, we headed to Bayside Autoworks in Spring Hill, Florida. There, owner and lead wrench Greg Fenton helped us with the install. Though not necessary, we started by removing the after-cat exhaust system. The entire install of the link took about two hours total, including adjusting it. It was quite an easy install.
Other Concerns
When installing a piece such as a Watt's link, it's recommended to complement it with other quality components. At minimum you should replace the shocks and struts, so that's what we did. We turned to Koni for a set of its Sport (Koni yellow) shocks and struts. These single- adjustable pieces are perfect for street and mild track use.
Up front, we found badly worn inner tie-rods. We called National Parts Depot (NPD) for a set of its replacement rods, as well as Steeda's caster/camber plates and bumpsteer kit. Other than those components, (and the struts) we left the front alone. Fay also recommends aftermarket sway bars and/or lowering springs, but we wanted to try it first with stock springs and sway bars.
Another problem we ran into during our baseline testing on the road course was engine cooling. Since we increased displacement significantly, as well as the engine's workload, the single-core, stock-style radiator wasn't doing the job anymore. We turned to PWR Performance Products for one of its '79-'93 aluminum radiators. PWR manufactures components for NASCAR, off-road vehicles, ATVs, and motorcycles, as well as performance street cars.
On Track
Back at Gainesville Raceway, we anxiously began our first session and were pleasantly surprised with the results. Under hard braking going into turns, the car was much more straight and balanced, allowing harder braking. Coming out of the turns under hard acceleration, it was even more noticeably predictable and controllable. More than anything else, though, it improved driver feel and confidence.
So what did that translate to on the track? Well, from an erratic 1:13 average in our before testing, we improved by a full three seconds to an average of 1:10.30, and it hustled to a best lap of 1:09.83 exactly two seconds slower than the 50-plus-rwhp-better '11 GT with the Brembo upgrade (July '10).
Our SSW would undoubtedly outdo the stock GT, as we noticed brake fade in that test, and our Baers in this test didn't miss a beat, even after grueling hot laps. Mind you, this is a 1.1-mile course, so a couple of seconds are huge. Add a set of R-compound tires and springs, and this car would be into the 1:07 territory.
With all that we've done to this car, absolutely nothing has been sacrificed for street use. In fact, this would be an amazing daily driver for anyone with a Fox-body fetish.
Check back next month as we install a set of springs from H&R, and take SSW to Gainesville Raceway for a final track test on the road course and dragstrip.

Our Fay’s2 Watt’s link comes...

Our Fay’s2 Watt’s link comes with everything shown here and retails for $650.

1 We acquired a set of single-adjustable...

1 We acquired a set of single-adjustable Koni Sport shocks and struts. The shocks (PN 8042-1026SPORT) retail for about $135 each, and the struts (PN 8741-1121SPORT) are about $200 each.

2 At Bayside Autoworks, owner/technician...

2 At Bayside Autoworks, owner/technician Greg Fenton helped us out with the Watt’s link install. Had we known how easily it would go in, we would have just done it ourselves. The first step is to remove the quad-shock brackets from the subframe connectors.

3 Then raise the Watt’s link...

3 Then raise the Watt’s link frame in place and reinstall the existing hardware.

4 A 1/2-inch hole must be...

4 A 1/2-inch hole must be drilled in the outside of each subframe rail, and a 3/8-inch hole must be drilled on the inside of each. Next install the bolt included in the kit.

5 That bolt can then be tightened....

5 That bolt can then be tightened. This secures the frame to the subframe rail without crushing the rail.

6 We next secured the propeller...

6 We next secured the propeller to the frame and inserted the links into the impeller.

7 Then we installed the Koni...

7 Then we installed the Koni Sport shocks in the stock locations.

8 The axle clamps are then...

8 The axle clamps are then installed loosely to the axle housing, and the parallel bars are bolted in place from the propeller to the outer mounting points (on the axle clamps). It’s absolutely necessary to make sure that both bars are equal length, so as not to bind the mechanism under motion. We leveled the bars by adjusting the axle clamps, and then tightened the clamps.

9 The sway bar relocation...

9 The sway bar relocation brackets (included) bolt to the stock location with included hardware.

10 The sway bar mounts to...

10 The sway bar mounts to the new brackets using existing hardware.

11 Here is the system completely...

11 Here is the system completely installed. It doesn’t interfere with most exhaust systems or the fuel tank/lines.

12 The front suspension needed...

12 The front suspension needed some work as well. We ordered a pair of stock replacement inner tie-rods (PN M-3280-3A; $18.95/each), as well as Steeda’s caster/camber plates (PN M-3B391-1B; $209.95) and bumpsteer kit (M-3A130-4SK; $167.95), all from National Parts Depot.

13 Fenton removed the stock...

13 Fenton removed the stock outer tie-rod end and the inner tie-rods using a special long socket.

14 After installing the new...

14 After installing the new inners, he installed the Steeda bumpsteer kit.

15 He then prepped the Koni...

15 He then prepped the Koni Sport struts using the stock boot.

16 He installed the struts...

16 He installed the struts in the stock location.

17 The Steeda caster/camber...

17 The Steeda caster/camber plates were then bolted to the strut towers and we fastened the struts to them using the provided nuts.

18a To remedy our overheating...

18a To remedy our overheating problems during the last track outing...

18b ...We contacted PWR Performance...

18b ...We contacted PWR Performance Products for one of its aluminum radiators for ’79-’93 Mustangs (PN PWRS-0822; $329.99).

19 We simply transferred...

19 We simply transferred our fan and coolant reservoir from our old single-core radiator to the new one and replaced the coolant.

20 After setting the alignment...

20 After setting the alignment to Jim Fay’s specs (-1.5 degrees camber, 0 degrees toe, and as much positive caster as possible), and setting the shocks and struts to one-half turn from full tight, we hit the track.

21 After five consistent...

21 After five consistent laps (all within a 1-second range), our new average was 1:10.30 with a best of 1:09.83. Before, our best was only 1:12.86 with an average of 1:13.53. On Gainesville Raceway’s 1.1-mile course, the 3-second drop in lap times was huge.