Our 347 stroker will feature...
Our 347 stroker will feature a modified, remanufactured stock block from Summit Racing Equipment, a Scat 9000 crankshaft, Scat forged I-beam rods, and forged aluminum pistons.
The pages of
MM&FF (and other titles) are littered with feel-good features of other people's cars and the stories of how they spent their hard-earned money on high-dollar go-fast goodies. We also regularly bring you detailed tech stories of the latest-and-greatest mods that you, too, can have-if you have the budget, of course.
Lately, though, many high-end parts have become less attainable for the average guy or gal as the state of the economy has compelled us to save more and spend less. So for you, Average Joe (or Joann), we have brought you our budget-minded daily-driven SSP.
Since we introduced our two-tone gray coupe in the Nov. '09 issue, we have installed and tested the best affordable parts we could find-and we've done all the work ourselves with basic handtools and some grunt. Though probably not the cheapest parts on the market, our selections focus on street and strip performance coupled with daily-driven reliability-all without breaking the bank.
Recently in the chronicles of the notch was an assortment of adjustable suspension components from Summit Racing Equipment, and a set of wheels and tires from Discount Tire Direct. With increased adjustability, not only is the coupe track-ready in street trim, it now launches more aggressively and with greater consistency. Our best quarter-mile pass was 11.49 at 117 mph.
The foundation of our new...
The foundation of our new engine is this block from Summit Racing Equipment. It (PN SUM-150110) is bored, honed, and ready for a good 347-inch stuffing. It comes with new cam bearings, pipe plugs, and freeze plugs. It accepts the preferred one-piece rear main seal, is suitable for solid or hydraulic lifters, and retails for $689.95.
Shortly after that, the SSP was the subject of a rocker arm test ("Rockin' Out," Jan. '11). As fellow Associate Editor Pete Epple stressed in the story, it's important to do your homework when making such a change. The rocker swap helped the engine make more power, but-unidentified by us-the incorrect angle of the rockers was causing the roller tip to damage the valve stems and pushrods. Once we identified the problem, we decided it was time to put our big boy pants on and build an engine.
So here we are, at Part 1 of 3 (hopefully) of this engine build, install, and test. We will strive to maintain the budget-minded angle, keeping costs to a minimum without sacrificing reliability. This month, we assemble a 347ci stroker short-block using a Summit Racing Equipment stock block that has been machined for a 347 stroker kit and a Scat rotating assembly, also from Summit Racing.
The block (PN SUM-150110; $689.95) comes ready to accept a 347ci rotating assembly. Summit Racing Equipment has done all the hard work associated with assembling a stroker. Starting with a remanufactured stock block, Summit bores the cylinders 0.030-over, clearances the skirts for the 3.40-inch-stroke crankshaft, machines the deck surface, line-hones the main bearing saddles, and line-bores the cam bearing saddles. It then installs new camshaft bearings, pipe plugs, and brass freeze plugs. All blocks accept the one-piece rear main seal and are coated with rust protection and a coat of black paint.
We chose a Scat rotating assembly, also from Summit Racing Equipment. The least expensive 347ci rotating assembly available with forged pistons from Summit Racing, this kit (PN SCA-1-94165) retails for $872.95. It features forged aluminum pistons from Icon, forged I-beam rods from Scat, and a Scat 9000 cast crankshaft. Also included are wristpins, retainers, piston rings, and bearings.
Next month, we'll introduce our top-end components. Without giving too much away, we're reusing our Edelbrock Performer RPM II intake and E-Street heads, but not without extensive modification. We'll also turn to Comp Cams for some valvetrain components and a new bumpstick. In Part 3, we'll drop the engine between the fenders, make some fuel system upgrades, run it on the Dynojet chassis dyno, and make some hits down the dragstrip.
Now follow along as we assemble the short-block.
The Scat rotating assembly...
The Scat rotating assembly (PN SCA-1-94165) features a Scat 9000 cast-iron crankshaft, Scat forged I-beam connecting rods, Icon forged aluminum pistons with valve reliefs, and premium piston rings and bearings. The kit retails for $872.95.
After cleaning the block with...
After cleaning the block with brake parts cleaner and blowing out all of the passages with compressed air, we mounted the block to an engine stand and removed the main caps. We then installed the main bearings on the block side by aligning the tab on the bearing with the notch in the block.
While holding the end with...
While holding the end with the tab, we push down on the other end of the bearing until it seats completely.
After cleaning the crankshaft...
After cleaning the crankshaft with brake parts cleaner or lacquer thinner and a lint-free cloth, gently place it onto the bearings. Then we used Plastigage to measure main bearing clearances. Place a small piece on the crankshaft where the bearing will land on each journal. A micrometer is preferred here, but Plastigage costs only a couple of dollars.
Then, install the other side...
Then, install the other side of the main bearing onto the cap using the same method as before. Install the main caps by hand, and tap into place with a soft mallet. Starting at the center cap, torque main caps to 65 lb-ft, working your way outward. Do not rotate the crankshaft at this time. Do not lubricate the bearings yet.
Remove all the main caps....
Remove all the main caps. Using the chart included, check main bearing clearance. It should be between 0.001- and 0.003-inch. Ours all checked in between 0.0015- and 0.002-inch.
With the caps reinstalled,...
With the caps reinstalled, it's time to check crankshaft endplay. Attach a dial indicator to the block with the tip of the indicator on the end of the crankshaft. Pry the crankshaft back and zero out the indicator.
Pry the crankshaft forward...
Pry the crankshaft forward and read the indicator. This is your endplay measurement. It should be between 0.003- and 0.005- inch; ours measured 0.004-inch.
Remove the main caps and crankshaft....
Remove the main caps and crankshaft. It is then time to lubricate the main bearings for final crankshaft installation. We chose Royal Purple synthetic assembly lube. It has the consistency of 90-weight oil and works its way into every nook and cranny-ideal for initial startup.