Modular engine swaps are becoming a very hot trend, however, adapting an engine to fit a car it was never designed for challenges builders to blend factory components with fabricated parts to make the combination come alive. And of all the challenges in doing an EFI swap, one of the trickiest and most overwhelming parts can be the wiring.
There is a certain level of voodoo or black magic associated with wiring a swap. Fortunately for the Ford crowd, Ford Racing Performance Parts (FRPP) has made it unbelievably easy. FRPP offers Control Packs for not only the 4.6L, but also the 5.4L and the new 5.0L Coyote engines. These Control Packs come with everything you need to wire one of these engines into just about anything. Included in the kit is a pre-calibrated computer, power distribution box, electronic gas pedal, 02 sensors, mass air meter, air intake system, and the harness to connect it all. "The kit is designed to make wiring an engine swap easy," explains Jesse Kershaw of Ford Racing. "There are only a few wires that need to be connected, so it's mostly a plug-and-play installation. Anyone can do it."
Ford Racing Performance Parts...
Ford Racing Performance Parts has made swapping a Three-Valve 4.6L, 5.4L, or 5.0L Coyote engine into just about anything simple and affordable with its Control Pack. The Control Packs take all the guesswork out of wiring your engine swap. The kit comes with an ECM, power distribution box, harness, and all the needed sensors for the engine to run properly.
Another area where finding the right components can cause setbacks is the fuel system. Aeromotive has made this part easy, offering everything you need to supply your new engine with all the fuel it will ever need.
Jesse Powell of Aeromotive sent us its Stealth Fuel Systems for the 5.0-liter Fox-body Mustang. The only change we made was swapping the 5.0-liter fuel rails for rails designed for the Three-Valve powerplant. The Aeromotive kit comes with everything from the tank, with an A1000 fuel pump and filter in the sump, to lines and fittings, to the fuel pressure regulator. "This system plumbs these cars perfectly," explained Powell of Aeromotive. "All you need to do for the engine swap is add the Three-Valve rails and you're ready to go."
The kit includes an air intake...
The kit includes an air intake system from Ford Racing and the computer is pre-calibrated to run right out of the box.
Installation of both the Control Pack and the Stealth Fuel System are straightforward and only took a couple of days with basic handtools. We did have to fabricate a mounting bracket for the new ECM, but it was as simple as cutting and drilling a few holes in some extra aluminum we had leftover from another project.
Follow along as we touch on the finer points of wiring and plumbing the fuel system in our Three-Valve Fox-body.
Without the kit, the 4.6L's...
Without the kit, the 4.6L's drive-by-wire throttle body would make throttle actuation complicated. FRPP includes a throttle pedal, which simply bolts to the firewall and connects to the harness.
We started by running the...
We started by running the end of the harness that needed to be inside the car through the firewall, where the original ECM harness came through from the factory.
After pulling the harness...
After pulling the harness into the driver's compartment, we ran the harness under the dash to the driver's side. This is where the majority of the connections need to be made. The green wire (pictured) is the fuel pump lead and needs to be run to the fuel pump relay.
Depending on what accessories...
Depending on what accessories and transmission you are using, the harness has six leads that need to be wired in. The other connectors are for the electronic throttle pedal (left) and the OBDII diagnostic port (center).
With the help of Mark Houlihan,...
With the help of Mark Houlihan, Tech Editor for our sister magazine, Modified Mustangs & Fords, we made note of each lead and figured out what was needed and what wasn't. The harness includes leads for the air conditioning, tach signal, clutch safety switch, start/run, start, and a lead for an electronic speedometer.
Being that we have mechanical...
Being that we have mechanical gauges and are not going to run A/C for the time being, we only have three leads to connect-12-volt start, 12-volt start/run, and the clutch safety switch. If you are not planning on running a clutch safety switch, simply connect the lead to a ring terminal and ground it to complete the circuit.
After taking the plastic cover...
After taking the plastic cover off of the steering column, disconnect the ignition switch harness to gain easier access to the wiring.
The wires are then spliced...
The wires are then spliced into the harness and the wiring is complete. Here, Houlihan crimps the ring terminal onto the clutch safety switch lead.
Back in the engine bay, the...
Back in the engine bay, the connections are even simpler. With the cover off of the power distribution box, the large green connector from the engine harness is one of two connections that need to be made. The connector plugs in and is tightened with a bolt that is part of the block.
The next step is to figure...
The next step is to figure out where to mount the ECM. Our ECM is going to be mounted in front of the passenger-side wheel in the inner fender. With the location decided, the rest of the harness can be run and secured. Be sure you run the ECM connectors close enough to where the computer will be mounted.
Using some extra angle aluminum...
Using some extra angle aluminum from another project, we cut two brackets for mounting the ECM. The mounts are simple and sturdy. After plugging in the rest of the connections and supplying power to the main lead, the wiring is finished.
The Stealth tank is a stock...
The Stealth tank is a stock Fox-body gas tank with a welded sump already installed. Inside the sump sits an A1000 fuel pump and fuel filter. Installation is as simple as swapping tanks and connecting a few wires.
Aeromotive sent us its Stealth...
Aeromotive sent us its Stealth Fuel System. Aside from the tank, the kit includes everything needed to plumb the entire fuel system, and it's all under one part number. For our Fox Mustang, we used PN 17147. We simply swapped the Fox-body fuel rails for a set of Three-Valve rails for our Hot Rod crate engine.
Aeromotive also includes an...
Aeromotive also includes an in-line filter, along with a billet bracket to hold it in place. Although Aeromotive recommends mounting the filter to plastic cover on the tank, we aren't planning on running the stock cover. We mounted our filter to the framerail where it is easily accessible to change the filter when needed.
Aeromotive sent us a set of...
Aeromotive sent us a set of Three-Valve 4.6L fuel rails, which will bolt right onto our crate engine.
To mount the new rails, simply...
To mount the new rails, simply remove the stock rails...
...and bolt on the Aeromotive...
...and bolt on the Aeromotive rails. The swap is complete.
We started with the feed line....
We started with the feed line. Aeromotive supplies -8 AN stainless braided fuel line for the feed side of the kit. We ran our feed and return lines on the outside of the framerails on the passenger side.
Before running the feed line...
Before running the feed line into the engine bay, a Y-block splits the lines. We mounted it in the inner fender.
The feed lines then run to...
The feed lines then run to the backside of each fuel rail. The lines run from the front of the rails to the fuel-pressure regulator, and then back to the tank via a -6 AN stainless braided fuel line. To keep the installation clean, the lines from the front of the rails run under the intake manifold to the regulator, which is mounted on the firewall.
The finished product is simple...
The finished product is simple and clean, and we retained all of the room in front of the engine by running the fuel lines on the backside of the motor.
How To Assemble Your AN Fittings
When assembling your fuel system, incorrect assembling of the AN fittings can lead to leaks-and the last thing you want is fuel leaks. Here are a few tricks for assembling your fittings.
Cutting the stainless braided...
Cutting the stainless braided line straight is very important. You can use a sharp pair of sheers, but this can pinch the hose, making it difficult to slide the fitting over the fresh cut hose. We used an air-power cutoff wheel.
After unscrewing the hose...
After unscrewing the hose side of the fitting, slide it onto the fresh cut hose. Be sure it is pushed all the way forward, and there is no gap between the hose and the inside edge of the fitting.
Next, wrap the hose with a...
Next, wrap the hose with a piece of tape at the base of the fitting. This will allow you to see if the hose is being pushed out of the fitting as it's screwed together.
Using an AN wrench, tighten...
Using an AN wrench, tighten the two halves of the fitting together. A light amount of lubricant on the side of the fitting that slips into the hose will allow it to go on easier and not spin the hose as you tighten it.
If the tape has not moved...
If the tape has not moved and the fitting is tight, your job is complete.