Since the beginning of hot rodding, engine swaps have been one of the most interesting trends for automotive enthusiasts. If you can think of an engine and vehicle combination, chances are, someone's done it. We've even seen V-10 and diesel-powered Mustangs.
With that, we were looking for a powertrain combination for our '88 LX that's been sitting with fresh paint, but no powerplant. Given the efficiency and power potential of the Three-Valve Mustang GT engine, and the versatility of the lightweight Fox chassis, the MM&FF staff thought it would be the perfect time to show you what it takes to drop a Three-Valve in a Fox. Not only are these engines plentiful, but they make great power with simple mods, with a blower, they can equal that of a GT500. Combined that with a light Fox, and you can build a real screamer.
To get our Three-Valve swap...
To get our Three-Valve swap under way, we headed to Coastal Chassis Dyno in Tampa, Florida.
Among the
MM&FF staffers, there is an impressive stable of Mustangs and Ford-powered awesomeness (hey, it's what we do)! Of the many Fox-bodies in the family, our two-tone '88 LX has been patiently waiting for some new drivetrain and suspension components. The Sonic Blue and Satin Silver Cobra clone has been in its roller state for a few years, and it's definitely time to let this Pony stretch its legs.
A few months ago, a discussion arose about how to fill the empty space between the fenders. A few different Windsor options were brought up, including a 460-plus-cubic-inch max-effort NA version, but we kept coming back to the mod motors. Once the decision was made to go with modular power, the engine choice was simple.
Sam Lippencott and Horacio...
Sam Lippencott and Horacio Ramos dove right in and began removing the old parts from our Cobra clone.
Ford Racing Performance Parts (FRPP) has made swapping a 4.6L Three-Valve into just about anything extremely easy. Not only does FRPP sell complete crate engines, it also sells the needed components to get one up and running quickly and easily.
FRPP sent us a 350hp Hot Rod crate engine (PN M-6007-A463NA), priced at $6,300, and the Control Pack (PN M-6017-463V), which includes a pre-calibrated computer, drive-by-wire gas pedal assembly, wiring harness, and an FRPP cold-air intake. The Control Pack is priced around $1,200; the engine and Control Pack are available from Modular Depot (www.modulardepot.com). The basically stock Three-Valve comes with FRPP's Hot Rod cams already installed, but it is 125hp over a stock 5.0 and can easily be modified to make well over 500hp. This should be the perfect powerplant for our lightweight Fox.
Since the car has been dormant for some time, a few of the systems need to be repaired/upgraded. This includes the suspension and brakes-two very important systems. We want to make sure the rest of the components will support the new mod mill, and when Maximum Motorsports caught wind of our plans, it jumped on board, sending us a slew of suspension components to ensure our mod motor bolts right in and gets down the track.
As we move forward, we'll rip out the old brakes and upgrade to better binders. Follow along as we start our newest modular swap.
Maximum Motorsports sent all...
Maximum Motorsports sent all of the needed suspension components to drop the Hot Rod Three-Valve into our Fox. The tubular K-member is designed to give us the correct suspension geometry, but it will also allow the mod motor to bolt right in.
Ramos lifted the new K-member...
Ramos lifted the new K-member into position while Lippencott bolted it into place. Maximum's tubular K-member is designed to work with its tubular A-arms and coilover struts.
The A-arm bushings need to...
The A-arm bushings need to be installed prior to installing the arms. The bushings simply slide into both sides of the A-arm mounts. With the polyurethane bushing in place, the steel sleeve slides into the bushings. Be sure to use plenty of the supplied silicone grease to prevent squeaks.
Before installing the coilovers,...
Before installing the coilovers, the old caster/camber plates were removed to make room for the new units from Maximum. The three-bolt plates offer left to right adjustment for camber, and the slider moves forward and backward for caster adjustment. Maximum's caster/camber plates allow for plenty of adjustment, which will allow us to optimize the alignment.
Our new coilover struts are...
Our new coilover struts are Tokico D-Specs, which need to be slightly modified for the coilover conversion.
Lippencott removed the cap...
Lippencott removed the cap on the top of the strut by lightly tapping it with a brass hammer. With the cap removed, the threaded spring adjuster slides over the body of the strut. A notch in the sleeve sits around the spindle mount holding it in place. With the sleeve on the strut, simply tap the cap back into place and you're finished.
Maximum sent a set of 12-inch...
Maximum sent a set of 12-inch 250-lb/in coil springs for the coilovers, which are designed for street/strip use. These coils will allow for plenty of weight transfer while still remaining streetable.
With the spring on the strut,...
With the spring on the strut, assemble the upper strut mount using the races and bearings supplied in the kit. Be sure to grease the bearing before installation.
With the coilover assembly...
With the coilover assembly together, Ramos lifted the strut into position in the caster/camber plate and loosely bolted it in.
After installing the polyurethane...
After installing the polyurethane engine mounts from Energy Suspension, Ramos guided the engine as Lippencott lowered the Three-Valve into the engine bay.
The engine looks right at...
The engine looks right at home between the Fox fenders. The contrasting blue of the body and cam covers adds a nice touch.
Once the engine was resting...
Once the engine was resting in the car, Lippencott focused his attention on the steering components. Maximum included its tie rod kit to reduce bumpsteer. As part of the installation, the spindles need to be drilled out to 5/8 inch. It is recommended that a machine shop cut the spindles to ensure the new larger hole is perfectly straight.
While our steering system...
While our steering system was apart, we picked up a new steering rack from the local parts store. Once our spindles were reinstalled, the Maximum tie rods were installed on the new rack
Lippencott installed the new...
Lippencott installed the new rack with the included solid rack bushings from Maximum. The adjustable aluminum bushings allow the rack to be raised or lowered for correct steering geometry.
We finished off the steering...
We finished off the steering system with Maximum's solid steering shaft, which replaces the stock shaft with a rag joint.
The shaft will provide better...
The shaft will provide better steering feel and slips into the steering column on the firewall side and is secured with a nut and bolt. The splined end slides onto the steering rack and is tightened with an Allen-head bolt.
Given the Three-Valve engine...
Given the Three-Valve engine was never designed to be installed in a Fox-body, we knew header fitment would be an issue. American Racing Headers (ARH) of Amityville, New York, sent us a set of custom stainless steel, long-tube headers. ARH tack-welded a set of Three-Valve header flanges onto a set of Two-Valve headers for us to try.
With the engine in place,...
With the engine in place, Lippencott slid the headers into the engine bay from underneath. Although there were some areas where the floorpan interfered with the headers, it shouldn't take too much custom work to make them fit. We will cover the header install in more depth in a future story.
Next, Ramos lifted the transmission...
Next, Ramos lifted the transmission into place so we could measure for a driveshaft. For the sake of simplicity, we will be installing the T45 that came out of project Shake N Bake to get this project moving quickly. We have been throwing around the idea of putting an automatic in our Fox, but a decision has yet to be made.
Ramos then installed a driveshaft...
Ramos then installed a driveshaft that was sitting in the back corner at Coastal. This gave us a reference for finding a driveshaft length.
From weld to weld, this driveshaft...
From weld to weld, this driveshaft measured 41.5 inches. When installed in the car, this driveshaft was about an inch and a half too long. Once the final transmission decision is made, we will have a driveshaft built for the project.