1993 Ford Mustang LX Latemodel Restoration Supply A/C Conversion Kit

We pre-fit the condenser and fan and marked the condenser with a permanent marker. We then removed the condenser and mounted the fan with the provided nylon bolts.

With the coolant drained and the radiator removed, we pulled out our original condenser. The condenser is mounted in front of the radiator and removed heat from the A/C refrigerant (R-134a in this case). When the R-134a comes out of the compressor, it is a hot gas. The condenser transforms it into a hot liquid. The new condenser, as you can see, is a direct replacement for the original.

With the fan permanently mounted to the condenser, we dropped the assembly in place and fastened with the factory mounting hardware.

The controller was next. Since we wanted it to be easily serviceable and close to a good ground, the fan, and the A/C compressor, we chose to mount it to the grille support brace (arrow). We simply screwed it to the brace with the supplied self-tapping screws and ran the wires through the radiator support.

With the old headlamp switch removed, we located the foglamp harness (the smaller of the two connectors). All factory V-8-powered Fox Mustangs have foglamp provisions ('86 and newer). Since the foglamps will only come on with the headlamps on, we just cut the pigtail off the harness, taped and secured the ends of the harness, and ran new wire to the switch.

A small cut must be made at the top of the A/C compressor bracket (shown). After making the cut, we aligned the factory bracket with the new front bracket using an awl, and tightened the bolts by hand.

With the brackets held in place, the compressor can then be mounted and tightened.

We then removed the protective cover from the back of the compressor and lubricated the O-rings with ester oil. All O-rings must be lubricated to prevent you from pinching them during installation. One more thing to consider is oil. The Sanden compressor is pre-filled with the proper oil charge for your Mustang.

The provided manifold is included, and mounts to the back of the compressor with a hex-head wrench. Note how there is still clearance for even larger valve covers. We also wired the compressor feed wire at this time. It is a single 12-volt feed coming from the switch on the accumulator. We spliced into it for the compressor signal to the fan controller.

Next, we lubricated the O-rings on the fittings and installed the hoses.

It is easy to pinch the O-rings during installation, so be careful when adjoining the fittings. Open-end wrenches are the best way to tighten the fittings, not an adjustable wrench.

We then lubricated the O-rings on the spring-lock fittings and simply pushed the fittings together. This is a common place for factory systems to leak, so replacement of these and the hoses addresses most leak-prone areas.

With all the hoses in and fittings tight, we strapped one of the hoses (the liquid line) to the strut tower. This helps prevent heat from the headers interfering with efficiency of the A/C system.

The two spring-lock fittings on the condenser allow the two hoses attached to it to pivot, which eases hose routing and lessens stress on the fittings, thereby improving the longevity of the system and its components.

The accumulator is mounted in the same location as the stock piece. The compressor circuit wiring harness plug into a stock-style sensor mounted in the top.

Classic Auto Air Manufacturing provided the 1.75 pounds of R-134a needed to fill the system. The high- and low-pressure fittings are easily reached with charge hoses

Walter Cunningham of Classic Auto Air uses an A/C service machine to vacuum and charge the system. It takes about 45 minutes of vacuum to completely evacuate all moisture and other unwanted vapor. After charging, he checked for leaks with a leak detector.

With 1.75 pounds of refrigerant in the system, the engine idling, the A/C controls set on Max, and the fan on High, we were getting a vent temperature of about 63 degrees Fahrenheit, a 30-degree drop from ambient temperature. Though an acceptable temperature drop,....

....we weren't happy with the refrigerant pressure. Pressures in the system were around 40 psi on the low side and 315 psi on the high side. Anything over 300 psi (on the high side) is too high, so we evacuated a quarter-pound of refrigerant from the system.

Once Cunningham removed the quarter-pound of refrigerant, high-side pressure dropped to 275 psi, a comfortable level. Not surprisingly, the vent temperature dropped as well, to 50 degrees-a 40-degree drop from ambient!....

....."Sometimes a small adjustment in refrigerant level may be needed from car to car," Cunningham stated. "You just have to monitor the pressures and fine-tune the refrigerant level."

Though underhood may not look exactly factory, the new components give our coupe a clean-looking engine compartment and a cool cabin.