1990 Ford Mustang Coupe Interior Restoration Part 3

The armrests, now painted and dried, are ready for assembly. We placed the chrome trip strip on the armrest and stapled it in. You may need to use a nail set of something similar to drive the staples all of the way in.

We had to order to armrest plugs as we were missing all but one. They're side specific, so make sure you have the right side before you go pounding them in.

The car's door locks didn't work, nor did the power mirror switch, and one window switch worked, so we thought it best to replace all of them. They simply plug into the harness, just make note that they are side specific.

The door switch bezels were also shot, but LRS offers new replacements. Not only do these look brand-new, but we can tell you after going for so long without power door locks that it is truly a joy to have everything working now.

The finished door panels look sweet, and add to the rich appearance that our interior now has.

The dashboard kneepad was badly cracked and falling apart, so we opted to recover it in some matching black suede leather. In hindsight, we should have trimmed the top and bottom a bit to lower the overall profile but it still looks pretty good. Corbeau provided us with the material, and some spray adhesive and creative trimming was all it took. LRS is working on offering new pads, but until then, you can reuse yours, recover yours, or repaint another used one from a salvage yard like the one AMP Performance has.

To recover the back seat, gently pull up the material from the cardboard backing, and then pull it around the front.

The seat cover is secured with hog rings on the front side. Use some needle-nose pliers to remove them, rather than cut them.

Position the new Corbeau seat cover on the seat cushion, and start by securing it with the hog rings on the front side. LRS offers hog rings, as well as the pliers you need to install them.

With the front of the seat cover secured, you can pull the material over and around the back of the seat. We used a staple gun with 3/8-inch staples to fasten the material to the cardboard backing. Be sure as you are doing this that you are pulling the material evenly over the top and bottom.

The car's package tray was not only grey, but severely damaged as well, so we ordered a new one from Latemodel Restoration. After test fitting it and marking the holes for the upper seatbelt brackets, Mustang specialist George Xenos trimmed the panel for the holes and then set it in the car.

From inside the trunk, you can mark where the third brake light comes through. Pull it back out and trim it again; then you can install it for the last time. Here, Xenos is installing the brake light using the hardware from the LRS Fox-body screw kit.

The seatbelts in the car were torn and tattered, not to mention grey in color. LRS sells brand-new seatbelt kits (PN LRS-61109HK) that will give your interior the new car feel, and new car safety. They include a pair of buckles, retractor assemblies, inner and outer sleeves, and a Torx bit set to secure the bolts. LRS doesn't currently offer rear seatbelt assemblies, and unfortunately AMP Performance's salvage yard was out of used ones, so we'll have to keep our eyes out for a used set for the rear.

On the rare occasion that we have backseat passengers in the coupe, they should find the new Corbeau rear seat cover quite comfortable.

The new headliner was next on the list. Like everything else in the car, it too was falling apart. LRS sells replacements that use an ABS board fitted with fabric, instead of the factory, and quite flimsy, cardboard headliner. We had to trim the sides just a tad for proper fitment, but front to back was spot on. Start the install by loosely installing the visors, followed by the dome light.