Don't use gloss enamel from...
Don't use gloss enamel from the local store to change the color of your interior. Latemodel Restoration Supply has the correct paint for a professional result.
Last month we tore into our resident '90 Mustang coupe and gutted the interior space to make way for a host of new components from Latemodel Restoration Supply and Corbeau. To provide a solid foundation to build on, we called Thermo-Tec for some of its sound and heat insulation material and proceeded to dampen the resonant characteristics of the Mustang's unibody chassis. This month we move ahead with this comprehensive interior restoration by prepping and painting all of the interior pieces, and then tackle the heater core and door-lock actuator installations.
Changing the heater core in your Fox Mustang is probably the worst mechanical job that you can perform on the car. It's long, tedious, and the chance of breaking the various plastic tabs, fasteners, and wiring harness plugs that are all intertwined within the dash is extremely high. But not having heat in your car sucks, and cold, muggy days will require you to keep a rag on hand to handle the defroster duties. If you happen to have a non-air conditioning car, the job is actually much easier, but I think the majority of 5.0L owners have to do it the hard way, and that's what we had to do.
Last month we tackled the...
Last month we tackled the dash removal, which is the hard part of the heater core change. Next you'll need to remove the entire HVAC box. Disconnect all of the vacuum lines and cables (but note where they go) and then unbolt it from the firewall.
We covered the dash removal last month; this month all we had to do was disconnect the A/C lines from the evaporator, and pull out the HVAC box that is bolted to the firewall. If you have to perform this job, pony up for a new A/C evaporator and do both at the same time. Failing heater cores have a tendency to fill up the bottom of the black box with coolant and erode the evaporator at the bottom. Pulling the dash is already a tedious and risky job, so make sure you only have to do it once.
We had just installed a new heater core and A/C evaporator last year, but we evidently bumped the heater core tubes a little too much during this year's engine changes-upon removing it, we found that the solder joint that welds the tube to the core had broken free. The leak was catastrophic, so we didn't give it time to saturate the evaporator in the case by leaving it connected. The engine probably would have run out of coolant in a short amount of time if we did. Latemodel provided us with a new heater core (PN LRS-18476A).
With that problem fixed, we moved to the new door-lock actuators. When we bought the coupe, the actuators were locked in one position, and we had to pull them out just so we could lock the car. Failing actuators are a common problem on older Fox Mustangs, so it's really no surprise, especially considering all of the other things that have been wrong with the car from the outset.
If you're swapping the evaporator...
If you're swapping the evaporator at this time, you'll need to split the case along the seam. It doesn't come apart easily. Use some RTV gasket maker and some small screws to put the two halves back together when you're done.
The last time we had the HVAC...
The last time we had the HVAC box out, our flapper door (shown here) was curved at the corners. We solved the problem by sandwiching it between two metal plates. After removing the plates, the flapper was back in its original position thanks to a year in traction.
The heater core is located...
The heater core is located under this access panel.
Our new heater core required...
Our new heater core required a slight clearancing of the access panel. We used some side cutters to get the job done. It doesn't have to be pretty considering it won't see the light of day.
Reinstall the firewall insulation...
Reinstall the firewall insulation pad.
The HVAC box bolts to the...
The HVAC box bolts to the firewall at the top and bottom.
Moving to the doors, here...
Moving to the doors, here you can see the old actuator brackets. These need to come out because you can't really hook the new actuator and pop it into the bracket at the same time.
That being said, Latemodel hooked us up with a new set of actuators (PN LRS-21842), which come with an assortment of rods, a new mounting bracket and a new rivet to install the bracket. The rivet is an industrial-sized piece that requires a larger-than-average rivet gun. They are rather hard to find unless you go to a tool store (the local Sears didn't have one). If you or your friends don't have one, fear not, as Latemodel sells these as well. Installation is simple: It will take you longer to remove the door panel than it will to install the new actuator.
That pretty much completed the mechanical modifications, so all we had to do was finish the sound-deadening installation and start painting the interior components. Thermo-Tec supplied us with its Suppressor and Sonic Mat insulation materials for our project, and we finished this part of the installation by covering the back-seat floor area. We also added some pieces to the upper C-pillar area, as well as the package tray. You could continue into the trunk, but there is already a factory material similar to the Super Sonic mat on the floor, so we called it good.
We spent a good 45-60 minutes per door as that took a lot of trimming and detail work, and we probably have two hours at the most into the floor and roof. We thought we'd be adding a ton of weight to the car with this, but the five rolls that we used equated to just 34 pounds. We can live with that, especially considering our notchback model is the lightest to begin with.
As with any paint job, the prep work is what determines the end result. Painting plastic and vinyl requires an extra measure of cleaning prior to painting if you hope to have your new finish stick well and last a while. Just think of all those years that you've been applying Armor All or some other protectant to the interior panels, and it's easy to understand why many color changes fail.
Fish out the old bracket and...
Fish out the old bracket and whatever else you find in the bottom of the door. Doing this will reduce/remove rattles and clear the way for the water drainholes.
There are several different ways to clean the components, including rubbing alcohol, lacquer thinner, and a prep solvent of some sort. After we removed and disassembled all of the pieces to be painted, we gave each piece a liberal coat of purple cleaning fluid, and then scrubbed them with a stiff-bristled brush. We then hosed them off and proceeded to scrub them down again with laundry detergent and a bug scrubber that is commonly available at your local auto parts store. After the parts dried, we wiped them down with a bit of lacquer thinner, and then sprayed them with Latemodel Restoration Supply's interior lacquer paint (PN MET-FL33). If you're painting your armrest pads and the padded part of the dashboard, use LRS's Vinyl Prep/Cleaner (PN MET-VP383).
Here's the new LRS actuator....
Here's the new LRS actuator. You'll need to use the smallest metal rod that is pictured next to the actuator.
Insert the hook and tap in...
Insert the hook and tap in the roll pin.
Plug in the actuator and hold...
Plug in the actuator and hold it in place while a buddy installs the rivet from the other side.
Over time, the door-lever...
Over time, the door-lever springs wear out and don't always return to the resting location properly. We replaced our levers with brand-new units from LRS. To remove the old ones, remove the bottom screw and slide the lever assembly towards the front of the car, then pull out the handle.
Rotate the assembly counterclockwise...
Rotate the assembly counterclockwise and then remove the rod from the back of the assembly. Reverse these steps for the installation of the new levers (PN LRS-21818A/LRS21819A).
For the door insulation, George...
For the door insulation, George Xenos, our contractor for this interior renovation, set the door panel on the Thermo-Tec Super Sonic mat and cut out the rough shape.
Xenos then peeled back the...
Xenos then peeled back the top edge and carefully stuck it to the top of the door. It should go without saying that the doorframe should be clean before you do this.
We cut the door mat into three...
We cut the door mat into three more manageable pieces. Don't forget to cut out all of the holes for the door-panel and armrest fasteners.
This is the framework of the...
This is the framework of the dashboard, and given everything we're doing to the inside of the car, we just couldn't see reinstalling it with the rust still on it. After giving it a good wire brushing and hosing it down with brake cleaner, we touched it up with some black semigloss paint that we had in the garage.
We are going to re-cover the...
We are going to re-cover the dash bumper pad with some matching suede leather that Corbeau provided. To remove the pad, simply unbolt it from the back of the dash.
LRS sent us six cans of the black lacquer, and we found needed about two more to complete the job. Compared to what you find at the local auto parts store, the LRS paint may seem a bit expensive, but the paint goes on extremely easy, and it has the perfect factory finish to make the panels look brand-new. We wouldn't do it any other way, and everyone that has seen the panels since we painted them have been equally impressed with the finished product.
While we were waiting for the paint to dry, we bolted on the optional Corbeau seat brackets to the GTSII seats that we will be using. Our brackets had seen better days, and the springs that connect both sides to the lever were broken.
Next month, we begin reinstalling all of the parts, and we'll be building new door panels using some products from Latemodel Restoration as well. See you then.
We also needed to prep the...
We also needed to prep the door armrests for paint. We started by removing the pad.
This trim strip is next, and...
This trim strip is next, and it's held in place by some staples.
The power-window and door-lock...
The power-window and door-lock switches are removed next. In the next installment, we'll replacE all of the switches with new pieces from LRS.
Our console top plate was...
Our console top plate was broken in numerous places and missing the parking-brake boot. LRS sent us a new replacement (PN LRS-04490B).
Believe it or not, the third-brake-light...
Believe it or not, the third-brake-light assembly is made up of numerous pieces. It comes apart easily, which is good since we need to remove the lens and reflector element before we paint it.
Our car is equipped with a...
Our car is equipped with a trunk release button in the glovebox area. The easiest way we we've found to remove it is to wrap a plastic tie around it and push it through.
Keep track of things like...
Keep track of things like this plastic on the console. It's probably there to quell some sort of squeak or rattle, and you may need to replace it when you put it back together.
Here Xenos cleans our dash...
Here Xenos cleans our dash using some purple degreaser and a stiff brush. He followed this with a bug scrubber and some laundry detergent. The parts were then air-dried and wiped down with lacquer thinner prior to painting.
Plan on getting eight cans...
Plan on getting eight cans of the LRS lacquer paint to complete the color change. We were extremely impressed with the finished product.
Corbeau's Mustang-specific...
Corbeau's Mustang-specific seat brackets are designed just for your late-model Mustang. We opted to use these, as the slide springs on our factory brackets were broken on both seats.
With the seat tracks slid...
With the seat tracks slid all of the way forward, install the front two bolts and leave them loose until you install the rear bolts. Tighten them all down and the seats are ready to go in. We need to install all of the interior parts first, so check back next month to see the finished product.