In the pursuit of big power on a low budget, our '93 5.0L SSP coupe has shown a serious improvement with just a few bolt-ons and a couple of old tricks. Last issue, we advanced the timing; installed a BBK Performance cold-air intake, mass air meter, and throttle body; swapped our stock-length belt for a short-belt, and iced the intake. For less than $600, we made 44 rwhp and 58 rwtq. Quarter-mile e.t.'s dropped from 14.522 at 97 mph to 13.669 at over 103 mph. We were very pleased.
However, like other gearheads, we wanted more. Sticking to our theme of low-cost upgrades that most 5.0L Mustang owners can install themselves, we narrowed our options to a few basic options. We could add a nitrous kit, port the existing heads and the intake, or replace the cylinder heads altogether. Even though the GT-40P cast-iron heads that we were running are better performing than the stock E7s, they left a lot to be desired compared to aftermarket aluminum heads.
With the manufacturing and sale of budget small-block Ford cylinder heads in recent years, many buyers are opting for the less-expensive alternative to higher-cost traditional products. To regain market share, some companies like Edelbrock have jumped into the budget market as well. This summer, Edelbrock introduced its new small-block Ford aluminum cylinder head dubbed "E-Street." Since the E-Street is manufactured in the same facility as its Performer and Performer RPM, and with the same A356 aluminum, you can expect the same quality and workmanship as all other Edelbrock products.
Since the E-Street heads fit our theme, we ordered a pair. They come completely assembled with either 1.90 (PN 5023) or 2.02 (PN 5025) intake valves, and retail for $973.95 a pair. We chose the 1.90 valves. Edelbrock also sent a gasket kit (PN 7364), head bolts (PN 8552), 1.6 roller rockers (PN 77780), and head-bolt bushings (PN 9680).
Additionally, we were still running the stock fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator, so we were nearly at the end of our rope in the fuel delivery department, and didn't want to run lean with our new heads. To prevent this, we made a call to BBK Performance for a 255-lph pump (PN 1607), an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (PN 1706), and a fuel pressure gauge (PN 1617).
There are two SBF options...
There are two SBF options in the E-Street line, the only difference being the size of the intake valves (1.90 /2.02 inch). Both versions feature 60cc combustion chambers, 3/8-inch rocker studs with guideplates, and 1.460-inch-diameter valve-springs, and are rated to 5,500 rpm.
We marked the position of...
We marked the position of the distributor for reference and removed it, putting a rag in its place to keep objects from falling into the engine.
We disconnected the battery...
We disconnected the battery and drained the coolant. Then we removed the air intake, and the accessories and brackets. The upper intake came off next.
After unbolting the headers...
After unbolting the headers and removing the valve covers and rocker arms, we unbolted and removed the heads.
The e-street heads are about...
The e-street heads are about 30 pounds lighter each. The intake valves are 1.90 inches compared to 1.84 inches on the iron heads, and the exhaust valves are 1.60 inches over 1.46 inches.
After carefully removing the...
After carefully removing the wiring harness and relieving the fuel pressure, we removed the lower intake. It usually needs a little persuasion to release its grip.
We used a sharp scraper to...
We used a sharp scraper to clean the mating surfaces on the block.
Roller rockers are an inexpensive and simple bolt-on, but can be intimidating if you've never installed them. Our E-Street heads came equipped with rocker studs, so we didn't have to incur the cost of studs. Factory late-model Ford SBF heads have bolt-down rockers (E7TE, GT-40, and GT-40P), so there is no adjustment-you just torque the rocker retaining bolts to spec. With studs, you have a nut (and lock nut) that retains the rocker, and it must be adjusted properly.
Also, it is necessary to replace your pushrods to the hardened type when stud-mount rockers and guideplates are used. The guideplates help keep the pushrods aligned, but factory pushrods will wear against the plates. This is solved with hardened pushrods, which we sourced from Latemodel Restoration Supply (PN M6565L302). The length of your pushrod is also important. Check to make sure the center of the roller is in the center of the valve stem.
We then used compressed air...
We then used compressed air to make sure there were no metal shavings or objects in the intake and exhaust runners.
Like any other moving part, lubrication is very important to your rocker arms. Be sure to lube both ends of the pushrods, the rollers, and the valve stems to prevent premature wear on initial startup.
When installing roller rockers on an engine equipped with hydraulic lifters, it is best to adjust the rockers with the engine warm. So adjust them initially; then run the engine to normal temperature, shut it off, and adjust them again. We had to readjust ours anyway, because our valvetrain was a bit loud on initial startup. It takes a little while to do this, but it's always a good idea. Also, we utilized the valve covers being off to re-torque our head bolts.
Finally, be sure your valve covers have enough clearance for your new rocker arms and throttle linkage. If you're not sure if they clear, mark the rocker arms with a grease pencil (or clay), install your valve covers, and turn the engine over by hand. Then remove the valve covers to see if any of the color was transferred to the cover.
Next we cleaned all gasket...
Next we cleaned all gasket mating surfaces with rubbing alcohol and a soft cloth to remove any oil or dirt.
We lubricated both ends of...
We lubricated both ends of each pushrod using engine-assembly lube.
With the cam on the base circle...
With the cam on the base circle and one hand on the pushrod, we tightened the retainer just until the pushrod wouldn't spin anymore. This allows you to adjust the valvetrain to a "zero lash" setting. To adjust the intake valve, first turn the engine by hand until the exhaust valve begins to open. This will ensure that the intake lifter is on the base circle of the cam. To adjust the exhaust rocker for a given cylinder, spin the engine until the intake valve fully opens and then begins to close.
Next we set the lower intake...
Next we set the lower intake gaskets in place, and laid down a heavy bead of silicone sealant onto the front and rear mating surfaces on the block.
Using a 5/8-inch wrench, we...
Using a 5/8-inch wrench, we turned the nut a half-turn and locked it down with a hex key. It's not a bad idea to give both wrenches a little extra nudge after tightening down the lock.
Edelbrock's gasket kit comes...
Edelbrock's gasket kit comes with head gaskets, lower intake gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, and valve cover gaskets.
We installed the head gasket...
We installed the head gasket making sure the end marked "front" faced forward, followed by the cylinder head. Make sure the dowels are in place and fully seated in the block before installing the heads.
Typically when power is increased, fuel consumption is increased. Since our LX had a stock fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator, we knew it was a good time to upgrade, especially since we didn't want to start running lean with a new set of cylinder heads. Lean conditions can cause a misfire or detonation, to name a few issues.
Since we have bigger plans for our coupe, we went with a 255-lph pump. It may be overkill for our current setup, but now we won't have to go back into the tank. The pump kit comes with everything needed and installs easily. Two things we suggest purchasing separately are the filler neck seal on the tank and a fuel filter. The filler neck seal is prone to leak, and it's always a good idea to replace your fuel filter when replacing the pump.
Along with our pump upgrade, we decided to go with an adjustable fuel-pressure regulator and gauge. Using our chassis dyno, we were able to adjust fuel pressure to achieve our target air/fuel ratio.
The head bolt bores are designed...
The head bolt bores are designed for 1/2-inch studs or bolts. When using stock or aftermarket 7/16-inch head bolts, head-bolt bushings (PN 9680) must be used.
We lubricated both sides of...
We lubricated both sides of the bushings and installed them into the cylinder head.
We used Edelbrock's head-bolt...
We used Edelbrock's head-bolt kit (PN 8552). It is very important to lubricate the threads and the underside of the bolt head to ensure proper torque when tightening.
We torqued the head bolts...
We torqued the head bolts following the torque specifications and sequence included with our gasket kit.
Then we carefully installed...
Then we carefully installed the lower intake and torqued the bolts to specification.
The BBK Performance 255-lph...
The BBK Performance 255-lph fuel pump comes complete with everything needed for the fuel-pump swap.
It's easiest to lower the...
It's easiest to lower the tank using a lift and a transmission jack, but it can be done on the ground with a floor jack. Still, you should always use two people to lower the tank. It's also much easier when the tank is nearly empty.
After removing the lock ring,...
After removing the lock ring, which is on the top of the tank, the fuel pump module must be carefully removed by twisting it a half turn and tilting it gently until you find the sweet spot.
The new pump mounts in the...
The new pump mounts in the exact spot as the old pump.
The fuel pressure gauge screws...
The fuel pressure gauge screws into the adjustable fuel-pressure regulator, and the regulator mounts on the fuel rail as the original one did. Be sure that your new O-rings seat properly as you tighten the new parts.
Before starting the engine,...
Before starting the engine, cycle the key to pressurize the fuel system and check for leaks. Then with the engine idling, check for leaks again, and set the fuel pressure using an open-end wrench and a hex key. Ultimately, we locked the pressure in at 38 psi, which produced the best power and a safe air/fuel ratio of 12.8:1 at WOT.
Because our new roller rockers...
Because our new roller rockers were taller than our originals, we scrounged up a pair of taller valve covers from our bone yard. Unfortunately, this interfered with our throttle linkage, so we called up Latemodel Restoration Supply for a 1/2-inch spacer kit (PN M9486A52).
After reassembly, we drained...
After reassembly, we drained the oil, along with any coolant that may have drained into the block during disassembly. We opted for Royal Purple 10W30 synthetic oil and an FRPP oil filter (PN CM-6731-FL1A).
On our Mustang dyno, the LX...
On our Mustang dyno, the LX made a best run of 273 rwhp (277 with the graph unsmoothed and ice on the intake) and 299 rwtq-a gain of 30-plus rwhp and 21 rwtq over our GT-40P heads.