We used a sharp scraper to...
We used a sharp scraper to clean the mating surfaces on the block.
Roller rockers are an inexpensive and simple bolt-on, but can be intimidating if you've never installed them. Our E-Street heads came equipped with rocker studs, so we didn't have to incur the cost of studs. Factory late-model Ford SBF heads have bolt-down rockers (E7TE, GT-40, and GT-40P), so there is no adjustment-you just torque the rocker retaining bolts to spec. With studs, you have a nut (and lock nut) that retains the rocker, and it must be adjusted properly.
Also, it is necessary to replace your pushrods to the hardened type when stud-mount rockers and guideplates are used. The guideplates help keep the pushrods aligned, but factory pushrods will wear against the plates. This is solved with hardened pushrods, which we sourced from Latemodel Restoration Supply (PN M6565L302). The length of your pushrod is also important. Check to make sure the center of the roller is in the center of the valve stem.
We then used compressed air...
We then used compressed air to make sure there were no metal shavings or objects in the intake and exhaust runners.
Like any other moving part, lubrication is very important to your rocker arms. Be sure to lube both ends of the pushrods, the rollers, and the valve stems to prevent premature wear on initial startup.
When installing roller rockers on an engine equipped with hydraulic lifters, it is best to adjust the rockers with the engine warm. So adjust them initially; then run the engine to normal temperature, shut it off, and adjust them again. We had to readjust ours anyway, because our valvetrain was a bit loud on initial startup. It takes a little while to do this, but it's always a good idea. Also, we utilized the valve covers being off to re-torque our head bolts.
Finally, be sure your valve covers have enough clearance for your new rocker arms and throttle linkage. If you're not sure if they clear, mark the rocker arms with a grease pencil (or clay), install your valve covers, and turn the engine over by hand. Then remove the valve covers to see if any of the color was transferred to the cover.
Next we cleaned all gasket...
Next we cleaned all gasket mating surfaces with rubbing alcohol and a soft cloth to remove any oil or dirt.
We lubricated both ends of...
We lubricated both ends of each pushrod using engine-assembly lube.
With the cam on the base circle...
With the cam on the base circle and one hand on the pushrod, we tightened the retainer just until the pushrod wouldn't spin anymore. This allows you to adjust the valvetrain to a "zero lash" setting. To adjust the intake valve, first turn the engine by hand until the exhaust valve begins to open. This will ensure that the intake lifter is on the base circle of the cam. To adjust the exhaust rocker for a given cylinder, spin the engine until the intake valve fully opens and then begins to close.
Next we set the lower intake...
Next we set the lower intake gaskets in place, and laid down a heavy bead of silicone sealant onto the front and rear mating surfaces on the block.
Using a 5/8-inch wrench, we...
Using a 5/8-inch wrench, we turned the nut a half-turn and locked it down with a hex key. It's not a bad idea to give both wrenches a little extra nudge after tightening down the lock.
Edelbrock's gasket kit comes...
Edelbrock's gasket kit comes with head gaskets, lower intake gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, and valve cover gaskets.