Mass Airflow Conversion - Mass Appeal

To ensure a trouble-free installation, butt connectors are not suitable. We highly recommend soldering all wire connections. Do not cut or remove existing wires from your EEC main connector or wiring harness. Simply strip off about 0.75-inch of insulation, and solder the new wire to the existing wire.

Then tape the soldered joint securely. Now that you have located the four harness wires next to the EEC main connector, cut the wires to the correct length. Make sure that you leave enough length in the wire to account for placing the new computer up and inside the kick panel area.

Next John attached the two supplied terminals to the green and white wires using a crimping tool, or you can carefully crimp them with pliers.

We needed to move the two signals (wires with terminals) for the thermactor pump to different locations in the EEC connector. The wire/terminal currently in position 51 tan/red had to be relocated to position 38 of the EEC main connector. The wire/terminal currently in Position 11 green/black had to be relocated to Position 32 of the EEC main connector.

We unbolted the driver-side seat and removed it. Before you remove the seat, make sure to disconnect the connector. With access to the relay connector for the fuel pump monitor signal, the relay connector was unbolted from the floor to make it easier to splice in the wire.

Black Wire No. 1 (see wiring note) was spliced into the pink/black wire going to the relay located under the driver's seat. The other end of the black wire/terminal was inserted into Position 19 of the EEC main connector. The relay was then bolted back down to the floor.

This signal, called FPM2, is used to monitor the voltage going to the fuel pump. It will generate an error code in the EEC if it's not connected. We routed the wiring up under the dashboard and over to the driver side. This helped us determine how much wire we were going to need and how much to cut off if necessary.

These signals are required for cruise control and, as mentioned, there can be stalling on cars not equipped with cruise control. It will also generate an error code in the EEC if not installed. These signals come from a sensor that plugs into the transmission. There is an eight-pin connector behind the driver-side kick panel. Remove the driver-side kick panel and any insulation that may obstruct access to the connector. You may need to remove the door-sill scuff plate to remove the kick panel.

Black wire No. 2 (see wiring note) must be spliced into the orange/yellow wire. The other end of black wire No. 2, with the terminal on the end, was inserted into Position 6 of the EEC main connector. Black wire No. 3 was spliced into the dark green/white wire. The other end of black wire No. 3, with the terminal on the end, was inserted into Position 3 of the EEC main connector.

The red H-shaped pin lock was replaced back into the EEC connector. We bolted the main connector to the new A9L MAF EEC; then snapped the black plastic wire retainer onto the EEC main connector. Make sure that your MAF four-pin connector is plugged into the MAF meter and the battery terminal is reconnected.

Before heading out to terrorize the neighborhood, there are a few more steps to perform. It is recommended to check the TPS calibration to eliminate any idle surge issues and for optimum driveability. We used the TPS calibration tool from Fiveology Racing, which allows us to clamp our voltage meter right up to the two metal terminals without having to stab into the TPS wiring. Everything checked out great on our '88 GT; our TPS voltage was dialed in at 0.967 volts.