Late Model Restoration is...
Late Model Restoration is a great place to get just about everything for your Mustang, and we sourced these Prothane engine mounts from them to provide proper engine handling, without the rigid vibrations from a solid motor mount.
When we began this build, we had planned to compare the engine dyno numbers to the chassis dyno numbers to show exactly what the drivetrain frictional loss would be in this application. Engine dyno numbers are also helpful in choosing the right torque converter, as we recently found out. Unfortunately our limited window of time on the engine dyno had closed, so we reinstalled the fuel injection setup and pulled the engine to ready it for installation into its new home between the fenders of a Fox-body Mustang coupe.
To get the coupe cruising down the dragstrip, Hurricane Performance's Jason Combs procured a C4 automatic transmission, fortified with various high-performance components from Performance Automatic. After a quick rebuild, we had our transmission, but we needed a converter. For that, we turned to Transmission Specialties in Aston, Pennsylvania. With over 30 years of experience building high-performance transmissions and torque converters, Transmission Specialties knows a trick or two when it comes to transferring engine power to the ground. Our application was pretty simple, and the company pulled a 10-inch torque converter off the shelf. It features an approximate stall speed of 3,000-3,400 rpm, which should work well in both naturally aspirated, and if we like, supercharged forms.
The 331 has reached its final...
The 331 has reached its final resting place. We set the headers in the engine compartment just before we set the engine down on its mounts, which is much easier than trying to fish them in after the fact. Leave them loose until you get the transmission in.
Transmission Specialties' Ken Kelley had a few recommendations when shopping for a performance torque converter. "As with anything else in life, you get what you pay for," says Kelley. "Specify furnace-brazed fins, which improves the strength of internal blades of the pump and turbine, and ask if the torque converter has been rollerized with needle bearings. Roller bearings provide less internal drag which reduce friction inside the torque converter. You'll also want to ask if the cover is made out of a stock OEM four cylinder converter or if it is a billet front cover, which adds strength to keep the converter from ballooning under load."
Kelley also notes that even with all of these points met, the best thing you can do is match the stall speed to the peak torque curve of the engine. "The torque converter should reach its stall speed at the same time the engine hits its peak torque output. That information is consistent with an accurate dyno sheet."
With the engine bolted up,...
With the engine bolted up, it's now time to run the fuel lines, and install the cooling system. We also need to hook up the Ford Racing Performance Parts engine harness to 12-volt positive and ground sources.
With the transmission situation resolved, the last part of the equation was the exhaust system. We were running 1.75-inch headers on the engine dyno, and while they may be a bit on the large side for this engine, we're expecting more power out of the mill down the road, so we called up Latemodel Restoration Supply for a set of its Mac 1.75-inch long-tube headers. They're offered in chrome and ceramic coatings; we opted for the latter.
Kooks, Bassani, and Mac are the only companies that manufacture a full-length header that will fit an automatic. To control costs, we went with the Mac's as its mild steel construction keeps the price down.
One issue we ran into, the headers use a 3-inch collector and ball/socket flange. Mac offers a 3-inch ProChamber midpipe, as well as a 3-inch after-cat exhaust, but we wanted to use a 2.5-inch setup for better clearance. To make the headers and the exhaust mate up, Latemodel supplied us with one of its 2.5-inch H-pipes, and Summit Racing sent us a Flowmaster ball and socket flange kit, which allowed us to neck down the H-pipe. Working with companies like Latemodel Restoration and Summit Racing, which carry a vast assortment of parts and brands, allows you to easily remedy a situation with just a phone call and a credit card.
The torque converter that...
The torque converter that we are using is from Transmission Specialties, and features an approximate stall speed of 3,000-3,400 rpm. Furnace-brazed fins improve the strength of the internal blades of the pump and turbine, and roller needle bearings provide less internal drag to reduce friction inside the torque converter.
Be sure to tilt and rock the...
Be sure to tilt and rock the converter when filling it with fluid to make sure all of the air has been displaced with the fluid. Then install it onto the transmission input shaft, and using a push and twist motion, spin it until you hear and feel it click twice.
The C4 transmission is now...
The C4 transmission is now installed. We used a common Ford Racing aluminum driveshaft to connect it to the rear of the car.
For the exhaust system, we...
For the exhaust system, we turned to Latemodel Restoration Supply in Hewitt, Texas, as we know it has a vast selection to choose from. When using an automatic, there are only a few companies that actually have long-tube headers that will fit. On the high end, there are Kooks and Bassani, both of which come in stainless steel. Mac also offers an automatic header, but in mild steel, and with a mild price to boot. Latemodel sent us a set of those with 1.75-inch primaries and 3-inch collectors.
Since this car will be occasionally...
Since this car will be occasionally driven on the street, and because your author doesn't particularly care for LX Mustangs without tail pipes, Latemodel supplied us with this after-cat exhaust from Pypes. It features 2.5-inch mufflers and tubing, as well as polished stainless steel tips for a slightly brighter factory look.