Casey Upton of DMC Racing...
Casey Upton of DMC Racing lowers the stock fuel tank on to a rack. Two straps and a cover need to be removed in order to get the tank out of the car. A little wiggling is required to get the filler neck to slip out of the tank.
The Stealth system places the pump and the pre-pump filter in the sump, which offers several advantages. The first is resolving the aforementioned installation difficulties that have caused durability issues. "Fuel pumps operate best when placed closet to the pick-up point. The A1000 in the Stealth system is only 3 inches away from its pick-up point. Another advantage is that by submerging the pump in the sump, it's happy, runs cooler, and is quiet. Just look at the OEs, they run the pumps in the tank, too," adds Powell.
Aeromotive's sump tank is a factory-style tank, so it installs as such, requiring no custom brackets or hassles. The only problem we encountered was a worn-out filler-neck grommet, which forced us to call up Latemodel Restoration for a replacement part. The sump at the bottom of the tank lets gravity feed the gasoline rather than the factory setup, which sucks it up. The A1000 pump and stainless steel Pre-filter (with 100 micron filter) sit in the sump fully submerged, and it will also have fuel ready to be inhaled by the pump thanks to a baffle system.
The wheelwell liner on the...
The wheelwell liner on the passenger side was removed to gain access to the old fuel lines for removal. The new Aeromotive lines were run behind the liner as well.
We selected the A1000 fuel pump because it fit our requirements with the forthcoming turbo engine. Aeromotive rates the pump at 1,000 hp in forced induction applications utilizing an EFI system. Sans power adder, the A1000 is capable of feeding 1,300 hp, also with EFI. Moving to carburetor induction setups, the ratings increase to 1,500 (naturally aspirated) and 1,200 (turbo or blower). Powell says there is a safety margin built-in so the pump can support slightly higher output.
Some longtime fans of the Aeromotive products might be wondering about the A1000 ratings, they are higher than the original ratings when the pump was released several years ago. Powell has this to say: "Electric motor technology has been improved three-times over what it used to be. The new electric motors pump more and are far more efficient. This is the third generation A1000 and it is almost 50 percent better than the original pump, but we rate it only 40 percent higher because our pumps are underrated." He also goes on to say that the third generation A1000 is rated as high as the older Eliminator pump, which is one step above in terms of its capabilities. The A1000 and Eliminator pumps can be used in EFI and carburetor applications; the only difference is the fuel pressure regulator.
This rubber grommet was the...
This rubber grommet was the only casualty as we pulled the tank down. It split as time and weather took its toll on our '89 coupe. One call to Latemodel Restoration solved our problem. The unfortunate part is that we couldn't fill the tank until the part arrived as the filler-neck would leak without it.
Aeromotive supplies all the fittings and plenty of braided line to plumb the feed and return lines, connecting the fuel rails and tank. Also included is a post-pump filter and mounting bracket. A Y-block is mounted on the shock tower under the hood, and the supply line is split in two in order to feed each fuel rail. Unused fuel exits the rails and connects to a fuel pressure regulator, where a -6 line is attached to the bottom and runs back to the Stealth tank.
The driver's side ½-inch fuel rail has two outlets: one on the underside in the center of the rail and the other at the front end. Those who run a stock size distributor cap need to cap off the front port and utilize the center one. This is because the lines will not clear the distributor cap. MSD makes a smaller cap for those who prefer to run straight lines. We chose the underside port due to convenience; we weren't concerned with the perceived flow-rate changes from using a 90-degree fitting. The main goal in any fuel system is to have as few bends as possible, but we weren't pushing our setup to the max, making it easier to plumb the system.
Casey Upton of DMC Racing began working under the hood and ran the lines back to the tank. It was easier to cut and adjust up front; then do one more AN fitting installation in the back of the car at the end of the day. Upton mounted the fuel pressure regulator on the firewall, easily accessible for fuel pressure adjustments. Using a lift made this job much easier, but it can be done in a driveway with some jackstands.
Our old system utilized a...
Our old system utilized a pick-up tube that was inserted in the fuel tank. The pump sucked fuel through the tube, sort of like drinking from a straw. That is -8 line for the feed, while the return checked in at -6.
It's helpful to have AN wrenches...
It's helpful to have AN wrenches handy when working with fittings. The wrenches are not required, but they fit nicely and don't scratch the anodized surface.
Upton removed the Ford Racing...
Upton removed the Ford Racing GT-40 upper intake manifold to expose the fuel rails. He also unhooked the wiring harness for easier access to the fuel injectors and rails.
The lower intake ports were...
The lower intake ports were taped off to prevent bolts or debris from falling in. Upton removed the old fuel rails, which were fine, but we want to install the fancy new Aeromotive ones.
The fuel injectors are swapped...
The fuel injectors are swapped to the new rails. Add a little grease to the rubber O-ring on the injector. Keeping the rubber O-ring lubed nicely is good for longevity and eases installation.
Here is a problem with the...
Here is a problem with the driver-side fuel rail--it interferes with the distributor. The stainless steel braided line cannot be attached in 5.0L applications. There are two choices. The first is the easy one as Aeromotive knows this problem and has a port underneath the rail. The other is to swap to a smaller distributor cap, like the one from MSD.
Upton removed he cap from...
Upton removed he cap from the underside of the rail and installed it in the front hole.
He then used the open fitting...
He then used the open fitting from the front and screwed it into place under the fuel rail.
The instructions don't suggest...
The instructions don't suggest a specific mounting location for the fuel pressure regulator. We mounted it on the firewall, which, by the way, is not NHRA-legal. To be NHRA-legal, the regulator must be mounted at least 6 inches from the firewall. With our setup, the return lines are plumbed to the back of the rails, but you can put them at either end of the fuel rail.