We utilized an existing bolt...
We utilized an existing bolt from the front bumper support to mount the boost solenoid.
We weren't able to sample all of the e-Boost2's features before we went to print, as we were waiting on a different wastegate spring to lower the mechanical boost pressure setting. Our 9-lb spring was regularly providing 10 psi of pressure, and since we are running a stock block, we didn't want to start cranking in lots of boost on top of that, so we ordered a weaker 6-lb so we can use the e-Boost2 to work our way upwards. What we did do was make back-to-back chassis dyno pulls to show what a simple in-cockpit boost pressure adjustment can do.
At 10.2 psi of boost, our Thumper Performance E7-headed 302 pumped out 448 rwhp and 482 lb-ft of torque. Bumping manifold pressure by 2 psi raised power output to 462 rwhp and 498 lb-ft of torque. This type of control is perfect for when you decide to run race fuel at the track, or if you're just trying to improve fuel mileage by using a lower boost level. With regard to our dyno test, we would have liked to have ripped up the rollers with a little more boost, but given our recent head gasket and misfiring problems with our Recessional Special project, we've spent more time under the hood than we have actually driving the car. Now that those problems have been quelled, we want to sample the surge of thrust that only 500 lb-ft of torque can provide.
The B&G turbo system is capable of much more than that, and once we've had our fun at our current setting (and come up with a back up plan in case the block splits) we'll kick it up a notch. For now, we're going to learn our way around the e-Boost2 and maybe get some track times for an upcoming issue. In the meantime, check out the captions for the easy installation. If your boost is loose, Turbosmart's e-Boost2 will help you crack that whip.
To mount the e-Boost2, we...
To mount the e-Boost2, we picked up a 2 5/8-inch gauge pod and mocked it up on the A-pillar. Once we had it in position, we pulled the A-pillar molding, held the pod in the proper place and drilled the four holes for the mounting fasteners.
To make it easier to access...
To make it easier to access the e-Boost2, we flipped the pillar molding over and sectioned out the piece behind the pod.
With the harness and the vacuum...
With the harness and the vacuum line attached to the e-Boost2, we then reinstalled the A-pillar molding, and popped the speaker grill so we could more easily route the wiring and vacuum line.
The vacuum line comes through...
The vacuum line comes through the firewall, and you use the provided connector to change the hose over to the high-temp hose.
At the fuse box, we picked...
At the fuse box, we picked up switched 12-volt power, as well as a solid ground. The fuse tap that we used provides a fuse for that circuit, as well as an in-line fuse for our power lead.
Next, we went to the negative...
Next, we went to the negative side of the coil to attach our rpm wire.
The control wires for the...
The control wires for the boost solenoid were routed forward and across the radiator support to the solenoid in the front of the passenger fender. We then cloaked it in some black wire loom.
We then connected our boost...
We then connected our boost solenoid to the wastegate using the supplied vacuum tubing and fasteners. Turbosmart provides several connection diagrams to follow, depending on your wastegate and its arrangement within the turbo system.
With everything hooked up...
With everything hooked up properly, your e-Boost2 should start working the minute the engine fires up. Now it's time to explore the controller's myriad functions and tools.
Since the e-Boost2 is a 60mm...
Since the e-Boost2 is a 60mm unit, it doesn't quite fit in either a 2 1/16-inch or 2 5/8-inch gauge pod. The smaller pod requires some cutting to make it fit, but the larger pod only requires a bit of vacuum tubing around the edge of the hole to make a snug fit.