Nitrous Madness!
The exact time and place of the first use of nitrous in an automotive application is not known, but we do know that it occurred in the mid-to-late '70s. The instant rush of power sent diehard hot rodders into disbelief and immediately labeled the wonder drug as a sort of "cheating" way to get horsepower. It was perceived as being too easy, and enthusiasts who used nitrous were considered not as good as people who went the all-natural route.
Fast-forward 30 years later and most will agree that nitrous is not only acceptable, but one of the most popular modifications Mustang enthusiasts can make. Ford's latest Pony powerplant is no different--and the sauce (as it is commonly referred to) is a popular addition to both naturally aspirated and forced-induction combinations.
Nitrous oxide injection is as effective on this engine as it is on any other motor out there. The complex electronics did force manufacturers to rethink the arming system but once it was overcome, it was business as usual. Adding nitrous to the S197's Three-Valve motor is as easy and cheap as any other EFI system. Over the years, MM&FF has tested many different nitrous kits for the '05-'07 Mustangs, including over-the-top 600-plus horsepower force-fed combos. This time, we enlisted the help of Real Speed Automotive (Bohemia, New York) to add a Nitrous Pro Flow wet system to a near stock '08 Mustang GT. Real Speed keeps Nitrous Pro Flow kits in stock, so anyone can show up and be juiced right away.
Adding a nitrous kit to the '08 Stang is a bit different than its predecessors, as there are two changes under the hood when compared to the '05-'07 models. First, the Nitrous Pro Flow solenoids are bolted to a bracket coming off the strut tower. The '08 models do not have that same bracket; the NMRA Real Speed crew used self-tapping screws to mount the solenoids in the same location. We felt that mounting it there would mean we wouldn't run into any problems with the pre-made fuel and nitrous lines.
The next difference is a major one for those who want to run some serious horsepower levels. As it turns out, the spark plugs are finally changed--for the better, the only problem is that the aftermarket has yet to come out with a heat range colder in the new style plug. Stock spark plugs are okay up to the 100 hp hit of nitrous. Above that, the plugs need to be one heat range colder and non-platinum. The '05-'07 cars used a unique plug end, which is patented, and only two companies we know of bought into the patent--Brisk and Autolite. The end of the '05-'07 plug is squared off, creating a difficult way to re-gap the ends as well--another critical modification required when running large doses of nitrous, or big boost. Some of the blower manufacturers sell a tool to crush the end in order to re-gap the plug. The new '08 spark plugs are different and offer a traditional strap, but the aftermarket has not ramped up production in a variety of heat ranges and non-platinum styles. Brisk Spark Plugs should have '08-style plugs available by the time you read this. Spark plugs and the mounting location are the only differences between the '08-'09 cars and '05-'07 models.
The installation is as ordinary as any kit, save for a WOT activation box. Remember we mentioned earlier that the complex electronics required some new components? The S197 Mustangs use a drive-by-wire throttle body, so the normal activation switch mounted under the throttle blade lever won't work. In traditional applications, when the blade goes WOT, a simple micro-switch is tripped and the nitrous and fuel solenoids are opened. There isn't an external throttle blade lever on the S197 throttle body. Nitrous Pro Flow developed a box that is wired into the throttle position sensor (TPS). A process is used to sync the box with the TPS and learn the WOT position. No need to worry, there are a few simple steps to follow that include pressing a button and going WOT with the pedal.

The dead giveaways to this...

The dead giveaways to this engine having the sauce are the extra steel braided lines and the nozzle screwed into the inlet tube. The car's only mods are a Steeda cold-air kit, Ford Racing mufflers, Pro 5.0 shifter, and a custom Real Speed tune. Now it has a single stage Nitrous Pro Flow nitrous system capable of adding up to 150 hp with the proper setting, spark plugs, and computer tune.

The first step to the installation...

The first step to the installation was disconnecting the battery.

Real Speed Automotive sells...

Real Speed Automotive sells this billet nitrous bottle bracket, which mounts in a legal NHRA manner.

The base is secured using...

The base is secured using 9/16-inch bolts that are drilled through the floor. The bracket is spaced to straddle the S197 frame, so the bottle can be mounted properly in the trunk area. Other brackets are spaced too narrow and you end up having to drill through the framerail to mount it.

Dan mulholland tack-welded...

Dan mulholland tack-welded the bolts in place, this is not required but it is the preferred method to secure the bolts. That way the nuts can be tightened on the topside, and the bolts stay in place when the bracket is removed.

The rear seat is removed as...

The rear seat is removed as well as several interior panels, so the nitrous feed line can be run through the car. We will also route several wires for the bottle heater and nitrous bottle pressure gauge.

A single 10-pound bottle is...

A single 10-pound bottle is supplied in the Nitrous Pro Flow kit. It is shipped empty, due to nitrous being a hazardous material in the shipping world.

Here is the bottle placed...

Here is the bottle placed in the Real Speed bracket.

Once the nitrous line is run...

Once the nitrous line is run through the car, it goes through a hole and into the wheelwell, where the line then enters the engine compartment. The liner was removed and the line run under it, so it's protected from the road grime.
Adding a nitrous kit is only half the story, as we decided to add a few more nitrous accessories. We picked up a bottle heater, which is from Nitrous Pro Flow as well. The bottle warmer wraps around the bottle and heats it up, safely. This product is particularly useful in cooler areas around the country. But what good is a bottle heater if you don't know the bottle pressure? An Auto Meter gauge was installed in the cup holder using a Speed of Sound gauge panel. We picked a Cobalt gauge--the blue glow is cool at night. This particular Speed of Sound panel is a custom piece, but the company can build it to order if you like the setup. We wanted one gauge, so the cup holder isn't rendered totally useless. Speed of Sound added three switches to go along with the single gauge hole. The switches control the bottle heater, nitrous system activation, and purge--which was another item we picked up.
The installation took just a day, and when we showed up, shop proprietor, Dan Carlson, had a fancy new billet bracket for the nitrous bottle. The Real Speed bottle bracket offers a solid mount with minimal cutting of the carpet. The brackets also feature a rubber liner to secure the bottle tightly and not scratch it up in the process. The brackets mount in an NHRA-legal manner, meaning they have 9/16-inch bolts holding them in place. It also has a bracket to hang a wrench for use on the nitrous line. The test subject, an '08 Mustang GT, had four modifications--despite being only a few months old. Real Speed added a Pro 5.0 shifter, FRPP mufflers, Steeda cold-air kit, and a custom Real Speed tune. Real Speed techs, Rob DeMartinis and Dan Mulholland, handled the installation while Carlson tuned the car on the company's in-house Mustang Dyno using SCT software.
Due to the stock spark plugs, we only tested the 100 hp and 75 hp power levels. There are those who have gone up to 150 hp with the stock spark plugs, but we didn't feel comfortable running that much nitrous with the factory platinum plugs. We have two sets of naturally aspirated results; the reason is that the car was overpowering the clutch when Carlson hit the engine with the 100 hp load of nitrous. This was due to the low 3.31 gears out back. Had there been higher numerical gears in the rear, it wouldn't have loaded up the clutch as hard in Fourth gear. Carlson's solution was to conduct the test in Third gear with the 100hp hit.
Naturally aspirated, the '08 Stang threw out 273 rwhp and 278 rwtq--remember this is on a Mustang Dyno that reads lower than a DynoJet and even lower while running in Third gear. The Nitrous Pro Flow 100 shot brought the output up to 363 rwhp and 435 rwtq. It showed a 90 hp gain at the rear tires, which works out to be a bit over a 100 hp gain at the flywheel. The 75hp pills were swapped in and Carlson was able to make these runs in Fourth gear. That produced a slightly higher 291 rwhp and 296 rwtq, sans nitrous. On the sauce, Carlson spun the dyno wheels to 360 rwhp and 427 rwtq. That works out to 69 rwhp gains, which workout to 75 hp at the flywheel. Torque gained an awesome 131 rwtq on the 75 hit and a scorching 157 rwtq on the 100 hit.
OK, if you're scratching your head asking, "Why is the 100 hit worth only 3 more rwhp than the 75, overall?" The answer is simple; we charted the gains on the bottle, regardless of the naturally aspirated baseline. We started with lower N/A horsepower and torque readings. If the clutch did not slip in Fourth gear with the 100 hp setting, then the car would have made 381 rwhp and 453 rwhp. The lower naturally aspirated output in Third gear shows how different the engine is loaded in different gears. The 1:1 ratio of Fourth gear will put out more power than Third gear.

Mulholland removed the battery...

Mulholland removed the battery and drilled out an existing hole in the battery tray. A grommet was used to protect the nitrous line when it passes through the hole. The hole is located to the side of the battery, so no worries about any interference.

The nitrous(right) and fuel...

The nitrous(right) and fuel (left) solenoids are bolted to a bracket.

Here is the nozzle used in...

Here is the nozzle used in EFI wet nitrous systems. One inlet is for nitrous...

...and the other is for fuel...

...and the other is for fuel supplements--the proper mixture is important for safety and power gains.

Mulholland added the purge...

Mulholland added the purge solenoid to the inlet fitting of the nitrous solenoid.

The solenoid bracket was mounted...

The solenoid bracket was mounted on the strut tower using self-tapping screws. Mulholland made sure there was nothing behind the mounting location. The '05-'07 Mustangs have a bracket where the Nitrous Pro Flow solenoid bracket mounts, '08-'09 cars do not have it.

Once the solenoids were secure,...

Once the solenoids were secure, Mulholland ran hard line to the front of the car for the purge solenoid. He runs the line out of the grille, in front of the horse's mouth. The lead photo of this story shows the effect, one that he says most enthusiasts prefer so they can show it off at car shows.

The nozzle screws into this...

The nozzle screws into this block, which is used to mount it in the inlet tube.

Steel-braided lines are run...

Steel-braided lines are run from the solenoids to the nozzles, one for nitrous and one for fuel. Be sure the proper solenoids feed the appropriate side of the nozzle.
Carlson used SCT Live Wire to log and manipulate the ECU tune, which he had modified when the shop added a Steeda cold-air kit to our test subject. He said this about the tune on the nitrous, "the jets supplied by Nitrous Pro Flow were well matched. The low and mid-range rpm was a little lean and the top-end was a little rich. It would be fine as is, but I am picky so I changed the base fuel table in the tune. I richened the low-end and mid-range and got the air/fuel ratio to run consistently in the 11.5:1 to 11:1 range." The car was tuned for premium fuel, in addition to the Steeda cold-air kit, so Carlson removed a few degrees of timing to keep it safe.
On the 100-shot, three more degrees of timing were removed for a conservative overall timing package, due to the stock spark plugs. Carlson did inform us he modified the top-end timing table due to the nitrous flow. "When the system was activated, it was displacing some of the fresh incoming air through the MAF with force fed nitrous. The MAF counts (mass airflow meter voltage) actually dropped a little with the nitrous on. This caused the engine load, which is calculated by the ECU, to be reduced. The engine load calculation was reduced to the point where it dropped down to the next row on the spark table. At that lower engine load, the computer tune calls for several more degrees of spark advance," he states. Carlson used SCT Live Wire to data-log the runs, identify this problem, and solve it.
In just one day, the '08 was more than capable of going deep into the 12s and take on the latest street machines like the Challenger and forthcoming '10 Camaro--due out by the time you read this issue.

The jets, or pills as some...

The jets, or pills as some people call them, regulate the nitrous and fuel being sprayed into the engine. Different jet sizes are used to determine the horsepower settings. Based on the nitrous jet size, a properly sized fuel jet is used for the correct nitrous/fuel mixture. Nitrous Pro Flow provides a chart to properly size the nitrous and fuel jets.

Nitrous carries more oxygen...

Nitrous carries more oxygen into the engine, which then requires more fuel to help burn it in the combustion process.

Additional fuel is added and...

Additional fuel is added and this block is mounted on the end of the fuel rail to siphon off the fuel not used by the injectors. The fuel solenoid then sends the fuel to the nozzle via a -4 line.

Carlson and Mulholland cautioned...

Carlson and Mulholland cautioned that the nozzle's spray pattern in aftermarket cold air kits should be checked. The S197 cars use a twin-bore throttle body. If the nozzle is located improperly, then distribution will be messed up. They chose to move the nozzle further away from the throttle body in order for the fuel and nitrous to mix properly and not shoot past the front two runners in the intake manifold.

Speed of Sound made this gauge...

Speed of Sound made this gauge pod for the cup holder in our '08 test car. It features a single hole for a 21/16-inch gauge and three switches. We have the switches controlling the bottle heater, nitrous arming, and purge. Speed of Sound labeled each switch.

This is the electronic box...

This is the electronic box that reads the TPS sensor for WOT. Once it reads 100 percent throttle at 3,000 rpm or more, it opens the solenoids, which then shoot nitrous and fuel into the engine.

Rob demartinis handled the...

Rob demartinis handled the dreaded wiring for the nitrous system, bottle heater, purge solenoid, and gauge. Here are the wires for the TPS and solenoids.

The bottle heater had to have...

The bottle heater had to have wires soldered into place and then run up the switch in the cup holder.

A sensor is tapped at the...

A sensor is tapped at the bottle-end of the main nitrous feed line. The sensor sends a signal to the Cobalt gauge to show the pressure inside the bottle. Auto Meter provides a six-foot long harness to run from the sensor to the gauge. Mulholland ran the harness under the carpet and center console.

The Speed of Sound gauge pod...

The Speed of Sound gauge pod fit flawlessly. We had to just use a light scuff pad on the body of the gauge in order for it to slide in easily.

Demartinis wired in the Cobalt...

Demartinis wired in the Cobalt gauge to the dimmer switch, so it goes on when the headlights are activated.

The gauge light will dim when...

The gauge light will dim when the driver dims the dashboard as well.

We dig the look of the Cobalt...

We dig the look of the Cobalt gauge. It glows nicely at night and even matches the blue in the My Color dash.

The finished gauge setup is...

The finished gauge setup is clean and factory-appearing.

The 75 hp hit was worth a...

The 75 hp hit was worth a gain of 69 RWHP and 131 RWHP.

The low rear gear proved to...

The low rear gear proved to be a problem on the dyno with the 100hp hit of nitrous. Running the car in Fourth gear put too big of a load on the clutch and it slipped. Carlson ran the 100hp test in Third gear, where the clutch held perfectly fine. He says the car had larger rear gears it wouldn't have been a problem on the dyno. Despite the Third gear results, the 100hp jets provided 90-rwhp and 157-rwtq gains.

One of the biggest differences...

One of the biggest differences between the '05-'07 models and the '08-'09 ones are the spark plugs. On the right, the '08 plug has a more traditional plug strap--making it easier for aftermarket companies to reproduce plugs. The plug on the left is the goofy '05-'07 plugs that have an obscure end that has to be crushed in order to re-gap the plug. Only two companies make aftermarket plugs with colder heat ranges for power-adder combos. The end isn't the only difference; the body of it is funky too. We stuck with the stock '08 plugs, which are fine for up to 100 hp worth of nitrous. Anymore than that, Carlson suggests getting one heat range colder than stock. The aftermarket is said to be working on colder plugs, due out by the time you read this issue.