The laws of physics cannot be broken or altered, and with that, we know a lighter car runs down the track quicker than a heavy one. That said, one of the easiest ways to get unwanted weight off your street/strip Mustang is to replace the heavy, stock K-member and A-arms with a tubular lightweight setup, like what is offered by Granatelli Motor Sports. The company offers front suspension components (amongst a selection of rear suspension parts) from '79 through '09. This article will focus on the installation of a kit for the '79-'93 variety. We shaved weight, improved handling, and thanks to the coilover springs, our front suspension is better suited for a fast-supercharged combination.
By now, most Fox-body Mustangs have had some hard mileage racked up, along with a need to update the underpinnings, as was the story with our featured vehicle. It was sitting on the side of the house nearly abandoned, but had some good parts and we wanted to bring it back to life. Despite its dormant status, the '89 LX coupe has a mere 64,000 miles on the odometer. The body is in excellent condition, save for a much-needed buff and wax job. The coupe belongs to my brother, Dominick, who unfortunately got too busy building a career to keep up with the car. So he parked it, but now it's time to shine up the hot rod and bring it back to its life as a fun street/strip Stang. The car is totally old school, but won't stay that way for long.
The front suspension was bone stock, save for four-cylinder springs and KYB struts. The short-block is original, but the upper half of the engine has been replaced. A set of TFS Street Heat heads, a Lunati cam, and a Ford Racing GT-40 intake help usher in the 15 psi of boost from a Vortech S-Trim blower. The car had run 10.93 once, in excellent air and was a consistent low 11-second player at the local tracks. We have some new plans for a powerplant that you will read about in a later issue, but for now we wanted to focus on getting weight off this 3,220-pound (without driver) notchback. Coupes are known for being lightweight, but this car still carries most of its street amenities-minus the air conditioning because it quit working.
Dom had removed the compressor, condenser, and hoses. A six-point rollbar adds weight to the total package, but helps for rigidity and safety. It killed us to make that modification, but the car was run at the track quite a bit and it is required by NHRA rules. Adding to the "heavy" parts list is a Dynamic Racing AOD transmission. The trans is far heavier than the paperweight T-5 transmission. The minimum weight is a shocker at first, but when you add in those bits of information, it's not a surprise the coupe was carrying that much mass down the 1,320. We remedied that situation in one day with a trip to DMC Racing in Halifax, Massachusetts.
Granatelli Motor Sports shipped us a tubular front end kit, which includes tubular K-member and A-arms, a coilover strut conversion, and caster/camber adjustment plates. The tubular products come powdercoated. We reused the stock spindles, but added five-lug brakes thanks to Late Model Restoration's complete five-lug conversion kit. The kit comes with front and rear brake conversions-this month we installed the front parts. Be sure to check the next tech installment to see how we installed the five-lug rear brakes.
Our final modification to the coupe was in the rolling stock department. Due to the five-lug brakes, we added a new pair of front wheels. One phone call to Summit Racing provided us with Weld Racing Drag-Lite rims (15x3.5) and Mickey Thompson Sportsman front-runners, which are D.O.T.-legal, too. There are dozens of styles of wheels for Mustangs, but we love the classic Drag-Lite look. After all, this car is old school and the traditional Fox-body Mustang look was fitting.

The lift was being occupied,...

The lift was being occupied, so the DMC staff jacked up the car and let it rest on jackstands. We did the swap just as most enthusiasts would do in their driveway.

We removed the Boyd Coddington...

We removed the Boyd Coddington wheels, revealing the mess that sat behind it.

Our car sat for several years,...

Our car sat for several years, so a lot of the parts got rusty.

The steering rack needs to...

The steering rack needs to be unbolted from the spindle.

With the steering rack out...

With the steering rack out of the way, the struts are unbolted and the spindle is freed. It took quite a bit of work to get the nut off the A-arm in order to remove the spindle.

The spring also comes out...

The spring also comes out once the strut is unbolted from the spindle. We left the brake caliper hanging.

The KYB struts and four-cylinder...

The KYB struts and four-cylinder springs were junked.

This nifty little tool was...

This nifty little tool was used to hold the engine in place. The side mounts can be adjusted to fit any vehicle body. The chains are also adjustable from side-to-side to accommodate any type of engine.

This piece is critical, otherwise...

This piece is critical, otherwise the engine will need to be supported from underneath or removed completely. Once the engine was attached, the motor mounts were unbolted.
We arrived at DMC Racing bright and early, only to find the lift in the shop was being occupied by an extremely high-dollar musclecar. DMC is predominately a chassis shop, so it only has one lift. We said "forget it" and did the install on the ground, just like a typical enthusiast doing the job in his or her driveway. The car rested on a pair of jackstands, amidst all of the race cars sitting on build plates. The only special tool the DMC gang used was an engine hanger, used to secure the engine as the K-member was dropped out from underneath. Total installation time was around six hours, with taking time for photos and putting every part on the scales to record our weight savings.
The Granatelli tubular parts went on effortlessly, though perhaps the hardest part was getting the stock hardware off the factory A-arms. The Granatelli kit requires you to reuse your factory hardware, but considering the inactivity of our vehicle, it took some WD-40 and Justice Brothers rusty bolt spray to get things loosened up. Once off, the nuts and bolts cleaned up nicely and went right in. The Granatelli K-member also has a support bar that runs across the backside of the unit. It's there for extra support for the road-racing types. Unfortunately, it interfered with our long-tube headers. Those who have owned a Fox-body Stang with an AOD know what a complete hassle full-length headers can be. Luckily, the support is bolted on and easily removed. It also reduced weight by another two pounds. We feel confident in removing the crossbrace because the overall design and construction of the Granatelli K-member is great. The unit is boxed in several critical locations, and the tubing employed is heavy-duty.

Here is the A-arm dangling....

Here is the A-arm dangling. Notice the nice pile of rust and dirt underneath it. That is what we had to compete against when trying to break free the nuts and bolts. Thankfully, most of it was just surface rust and nothing broke.

The Granatelli and Late Model...

The Granatelli and Late Model Restoration parts were laid out in front of the car.

Here the factory K-member...

Here the factory K-member and A-arms are on the scale, and the Granatelli unit is sitting next to it.

We weighed every single part...

We weighed every single part that came off and went on the car. Total savings from the front end mods was an impressive 41 pounds. Factor in the skinnies and that number jumps to a total savings of 67 pounds.

The Granatelli K-member bolts...

The Granatelli K-member bolts in the same holes as the stock unit. In fact, the factory hardware is used to bolt on the aftermarket unit.

Header clearance was improved...

Header clearance was improved greatly; the header tube to K-member clearance opened big time. The only problem we had was that the tubes hit the extra crossbrace support on the K-member. The K-member is built tough, as evident by the boxing at critical locations and the quality of the tubing.

We felt comfortable removing...

We felt comfortable removing the crossbrace and have no worries about the K-member flexing. After the story was completed, JR Granatelli informed us that the bar fits with long tubes-we just had to use the spacers that were included in the kit, which we obviously missed.

The factory nuts and bolts...

The factory nuts and bolts are removed from the stock A-arms and reused.

The bushings press into the...

The bushings press into the A-arms.

Strange struts (bottom) replaced...

Strange struts (bottom) replaced the worn out KYB units (top). The Strange struts are adjustable and reasonably priced, and are quite effective. We know many true 10.5-inch racers who have run these struts on their 7-second Mustangs in NMRA competition. You can adjust the rebound from stiff to loose, depending on the application and what is required. A simple knob at the bottom of the strut takes care of the adjustments.

Ball joints are included....

Ball joints are included.

Remove the dust cover before...

Remove the dust cover before you slide on the Granatelli coilover springs.
Adding coilover struts to your Mustang has a variety of benefits. The first noticeable advantage was the ability to adjust ride height. The other is to get a better front spring to help transfer upon launch. Granatelli includes two spanner wrenches to crank the collar up and down. All too often, people want to crank the coilovers down so much that the front end is on the ground. Running it that low usually isn't the best method, as weight transfer suffers, as well as ride quality. We kept the ride height near stock for two reasons. One, was to let the springs settle for a day or two. The second was because we are going to be overhauling the backside and felt it would be better to adjust the front and rear ride height at the same time. Granatelli sent us 300-pound springs because of the car's status as a street machine. Spring rates are a touchy subject, depending on who you talk to. You don't want a spring that is too heavy, otherwise weight transfer suffers and ride quality will be harsh. However, a really light spring might not support the heavy front end of a street car. A light spring will also cause a rather soft ride that can result in too much oscillation on bumpy and curvy roads.
The trick in selecting springs is finding the proper balance; the 300 pound springs we employed should offer great ride quality, but definitely aren't for the hardcore drag racer. "The best method in determining the front spring rate would be to weigh the car on four-corner scales. But generally, in a Mustang with a supercharger (which is nose heavy) the 165-pound springs will work nicely for hardcore drag racing and limited street use. Naturally aspirated cars can run a 155- or 160-pound spring. If anything, this car will ride as nice as it did before with the four-cylinder springs," comments Dennis McPherson of DMC Racing. The springs are great for a daily driver; just don't expect a 300-pound spring to help a car like this leave the starting line like a NHRA Super Stocker. Granatelli offers a variety of spring rates, selecting what is best for your application is up to you.

The coilover adapter cartridge...

The coilover adapter cartridge and spring slides on easily.

The dust cover is then slid...

The dust cover is then slid back into place.

The spring is secured with...

The spring is secured with an assortment of spacers and cups. We added a little grease to the Torrington bearings before adding the final cap.

This bracket goes on the underside...

This bracket goes on the underside of the shock tower and the caster/camber plate bolts to it.

The plate bolts to the top...

The plate bolts to the top of the strut tower.

Follow the instructions exactly,...

Follow the instructions exactly, these inserts go over the top of the strut, through the hole in the caster/camber plates.

The strut is installed through...

The strut is installed through the hole from underneath the car.

The factory nuts are used...

The factory nuts are used to secure the strut, and we tightened them down with an impact gun.

Factory spindles are bolted...

Factory spindles are bolted to the A-arms.

Reuse your stock nut.

The strut is bolted to the...

The strut is bolted to the spindle. We used an impact gun and a wrench.

Latemodel Restoration supplied...

Latemodel Restoration supplied us with its five-lug conversion kit. On the left is the factory binder; the right is the fancy new five-lug rotor. We reused our caliper, despite the crusty and rusty look. The brake pads were in good condition too, so they were reused as well.
We must also note, not every combination works well with coilover springs. Lower horsepower combinations, or ones with extremely heavy front ends, tend to work better with traditionally mounted springs. The reason is traditional springs are taller, and when compressed in the factory location offer more stored energy. This problem reared its ugly head with our Project Frightning, which had a Lightning supercharged engine in a lightweight coupe. The car was extremely nose heavy and we ran a set of heavy front coilover springs to keep the front from sagging. That, in turn, hurt its ability to get the front end hiked up when the car left the starting line. Another instance where coilover springs hurt is in a dedicated drag race vehicle that runs a street-legal drag racing class. If the Stang features a naturally aspirated, small cubic-inch engine, and the car must roll on tiny, drag radials, it's likely the front end will need to come up quickly in order to plant the drive tires. The ultimate deciding factor for converting to coilover struts is your combination. Given the popularity of superchargers and turbos, getting weight off the front end, and having the variety of spring rates available, means switching to coilovers can help your car hook when setup properly.
One nice addition to our vehicle was adjustable caster/camber plates-a must for any coilover conversion. We set our plates to Granatelli's recommendations. The trick to maximizing performance is to get a zero toe alignment with lots of positive caster. It reduces rolling resistance and helps stability at higher speeds. Also helping rolling resistance are the skinny Mickey Thompson Sportsman front-runners. The smaller wheel and tire package saved 26 pounds over the heavy billet Boyd Coddington wheels and Dunlop radial tires.
Overall, the Granatelli K-member, A-arms, coilover springs, Strange struts, and Latemodel Restoration five-lug front rotors saved 39 pounds on the front end. Then we removed the crossbrace on the K-member due to header clearance, and that brought our total savings to 41 pounds. The rotors were a little heavier than stock, so doing just the Granatelli K-member, A-arms, and coilover springs will drop your Stang down by about 43-45 pounds. The front skinnies offered us even more savings as we saw a total of 26 pounds (43 for big wheel/tire per side versus 30 for the Weld/Mickey Thompson combo per side), when compared to our regular rolling stock. That effectively brought our car's overall weight down to 3,153 pounds, without driver.

Grease up the bearings before...

Grease up the bearings before you install them in the rotor.

With all the bearings and...

With all the bearings and washers inserted, lightly tap it all into place.

The entire rotor assembly...

The entire rotor assembly slides onto the spindle.

Add the factory washer and...

Add the factory washer and nut, and then tighten it all down.

A little tidbit about brake...

A little tidbit about brake rotors, the Latemodel rotors can be used on either side because the cooling fins are not directional. If the fins had been slanted, then the rotors are sensitive to which side they are installed on.

The stock dust cap was installed...

The stock dust cap was installed and the front suspension conversion was complete.

New lugs are required for...

New lugs are required for the Weld wheels, the factory ones will not work. Unfortunately, the lugs we had lying around the shop weren't properly sized. One call to Summit Racing solved the problem.

All done! The car is ready...

All done! The car is ready to be dropped back on the ground. We saved a total of 67 pounds with the Granatelli tubular front end, coilover springs, Strange struts, Latemodel Restoration brakes, and a set of Weld skinnies with Mickey Thompson tires.