Adding coilover struts to your Mustang has a variety of benefits. The first noticeable advantage was the ability to adjust ride height. The other is to get a better front spring to help transfer upon launch. Granatelli includes two spanner wrenches to crank the collar up and down. All too often, people want to crank the coilovers down so much that the front end is on the ground. Running it that low usually isn't the best method, as weight transfer suffers, as well as ride quality. We kept the ride height near stock for two reasons. One, was to let the springs settle for a day or two. The second was because we are going to be overhauling the backside and felt it would be better to adjust the front and rear ride height at the same time. Granatelli sent us 300-pound springs because of the car's status as a street machine. Spring rates are a touchy subject, depending on who you talk to. You don't want a spring that is too heavy, otherwise weight transfer suffers and ride quality will be harsh. However, a really light spring might not support the heavy front end of a street car. A light spring will also cause a rather soft ride that can result in too much oscillation on bumpy and curvy roads.
The trick in selecting springs is finding the proper balance; the 300 pound springs we employed should offer great ride quality, but definitely aren't for the hardcore drag racer. "The best method in determining the front spring rate would be to weigh the car on four-corner scales. But generally, in a Mustang with a supercharger (which is nose heavy) the 165-pound springs will work nicely for hardcore drag racing and limited street use. Naturally aspirated cars can run a 155- or 160-pound spring. If anything, this car will ride as nice as it did before with the four-cylinder springs," comments Dennis McPherson of DMC Racing. The springs are great for a daily driver; just don't expect a 300-pound spring to help a car like this leave the starting line like a NHRA Super Stocker. Granatelli offers a variety of spring rates, selecting what is best for your application is up to you.
The coilover adapter cartridge...
The coilover adapter cartridge and spring slides on easily.
The dust cover is then slid...
The dust cover is then slid back into place.
The spring is secured with...
The spring is secured with an assortment of spacers and cups. We added a little grease to the Torrington bearings before adding the final cap.
This bracket goes on the underside...
This bracket goes on the underside of the shock tower and the caster/camber plate bolts to it.
The plate bolts to the top...
The plate bolts to the top of the strut tower.
Follow the instructions exactly,...
Follow the instructions exactly, these inserts go over the top of the strut, through the hole in the caster/camber plates.
The strut is installed through...
The strut is installed through the hole from underneath the car.
The factory nuts are used...
The factory nuts are used to secure the strut, and we tightened them down with an impact gun.
Factory spindles are bolted...
Factory spindles are bolted to the A-arms.
Reuse your stock nut.
The strut is bolted to the...
The strut is bolted to the spindle. We used an impact gun and a wrench.
Latemodel Restoration supplied...
Latemodel Restoration supplied us with its five-lug conversion kit. On the left is the factory binder; the right is the fancy new five-lug rotor. We reused our caliper, despite the crusty and rusty look. The brake pads were in good condition too, so they were reused as well.