We baselined our Cobra with a 1:24.77 lap time and were able to pound down some rather strong and consistent supporting numbers. Due to our Cobra's relatively weak factory-stock cooling system, we were able to only get four laps before the engine management system began taking timing and rpm out from the excessive engine temp.
A few weeks later, we went back armed with our new suspension. Using the exact same tire pressures, track configuration, and driver, we'd be able to see exactly how much better our car would handle.
After one warm up lap, Chris dove into the Cobra's deep torque curve and quickly applied the power from turn to turn, posting three times that were eerily consistent: 1:18.92, 1:18.55, and 1:18:03, all of which were improving as he went along. Like last time, the engine began running too hot for the EEC-V's comfort, and any throttle input resulted in a rev limiter that sounded like the traction control was on in the burnout box. Despite laying down just four laps, we were able to record a solid 6.74-second improvement.
Like in drag racing, having nearly seven seconds shaved off your time on a road course that is over a minute long is like an eternity. As Chris mentioned, "The suspension is night and day. It gets more power to the ground in the turns and relies on the tires for more grip, whereas the stock suspension gave up before the tires did. Put an R-compound tire on this car and you're talking serious numbers."
Afterwards, I then strapped myself into the car to see what he was talking about. Without a doubt, he hit everything right on the head. When the car was stock, it felt top-heavy and wallowed. Also, in slower turns, the rear always felt disconnected, as the inside wheel would never put the power down, no matter how hard the 8.8's diff tried.
With the Steeda suspension, however, the rear stayed planted under power, and more impressively, would rotate slightly under deceleration in a turn. In higher-speed sweeping turns, the car was much more stable, eliminating the stock suspension's tendency to gyrate under full acceleration.
Getting power from a Terminator is so easy most people don't need to spend more than a few hours of wrench-turning to make 500 hp. But getting that power to the ground on the street, well, that's a whole other part of the equation. Sure, one can build an 1,100 rwhp car for the dyno and spin tires in Fifth gear for Internet junkies to watch online, but we'd rather have our 453 rwhp and use every one of them everywhere we go. Thanks to Steeda, we now can.
Tire Testing
For our track test, we relied on the capable hands of Chris Winter to drive our Cobra test vehicle. If his name sounds familiar, it's because he's popped up several times in our magazine as the proprietor of Crazy Horse Racing in South Amboy, New Jersey. When not busy running his Dynojet, he spends his time at Raceway Park's road course managing its layout and accommodating the needs of all racers. In his free time, he's an avid road race junkie that instructs for the PDA, the Performance Drivers Association (www.pdadrivingschool.com).
So with our Cobra in his capable hands, Chris gave us the skinny on how the car fared with both the stock suspension and the 18-inch Nitto INVO tires compared to the NT-555 tires that were mounted on the stock Cobra wheels. When the car was stock, he complained about the amount of slop and how impossible it was to apply power anywhere in a turn. In transitions, the stock suspension was not liking it, as side-to-side weight transfer was quite pronounced. As for the tires, he mentioned that the NT-555 tires made the Cobra have more understeer, but the INVOs transformed the predictability of the car as it had a more approachable limit. Once at that limit, the tires did not bite you back if you were in a slide. Interestingly, Winter was quicker on the smaller NT-555s, which are more competition bred with its 260 treadwear.
 The lower G-Trac brace replaces...  The lower G-Trac brace replaces the factory stamped steel unit and simply bolts into the existing holes. Just be mindful of bellhousing clearance as it does get tight. On our car, it cleared with just 0.050-inch to spare. |  Steeda's bumpsteer elimination...  Steeda's bumpsteer elimination kit replaces the original outer tie rod with a Heim joint and stackable spacers that can lower the pivot point to get rid of, you guessed it, bumpsteer. If you hit a bump mid-corner, suspension compression may cause your tie rod angle to drastically differ from your lower control arm's angle, effectively changing the toe on that side of the vehicle. This will cause the car to jerk to the side and the results can suck the upholstery right from under you. Thankfully, this eliminates that feeling. |  A sturdy Flaming River steering...  A sturdy Flaming River steering shaft replaces the original and transmits newfound precision to your fingertips. It takes a few steps to assemble, but the results are worth it as this direct-fit part does away with that sensation-numbing rubber coupler from Ford. |
 With our suspension back together...  With our suspension back together underneath, we lined up the strut tower brace with enough clearance under the supercharger to take into consideration engine movement. We then drilled a few holes to mount the brace to the strut towers. At the rear, you will have to remove the wiper arms and cowl cover to reach behind the firewall to fasten the brace for full triangulation of the engine compartment. |  To get enough access to all...  To get enough access to all the bushings that get upgraded to polyurethane, the entire rear suspension subframe must be lowered a few inches out of the car. With the exhaust system and driveshaft removed, we placed a jack under each control arm to remove the lower shock absorber bolts with an 18mm socket. Then, with the jack under the rear differential, the crossmember support bolts were removed with the same size socket, and everything was slowly lowered. |  We started things off by replacing...  We started things off by replacing the rear subframe bushings. Since you'll have to reuse the existing steel outer shells, carefully remove the original insert by drilling a bunch of holes through the rubber and use a ball joint press to push it out. The new polyurethane bushing then gets lathered in grease and is pressed into its new home. We had to do the same for the forward subframe bushings, and of course, the control arm bushings as well. |
 To access the upper shock...  To access the upper shock absorber mounting nuts, remove all the inner trunk panels, and using a 15mm socket, remove the nuts and pull the struts out from underneath. Then, slide the new Bilsteins from underneath, and while a friend is holding it in place, start the new nut onto its threads. Here, you'll have to hold the shaft in place with an 8mm wrench and tighten the retaining nut with a larger 17mm wrench. Go until the bushings start to bulge as shown. |  As you raise and re-install...  As you raise and re-install the entire rear subframe, place the rear springs in place, making sure to clock them in the same position as the original ones for a consistent ride height from side to side. Reusing the rubber isolators is highly recommended for proper ride height and reduced road noise. |  With the entire subframe back...  With the entire subframe back in place, jack each control arm up to compress the spring and re-install the lower shock bolt. |