You May have to test fit the...
You May have to test fit the PA alternator to make sure you have clearanced the bracket enough, but once that's complete, there are just two more bolts to install. PA supplies a new top bolt.
One area people get wrong is pulley ratios. An alternator needs a minimum speed to make magnetism (amps). When people have cars that idle very low or they have power pulleys (or a combination of both), they need to calculate pulley sizes to move that alternator back into the range that it will make magnetism. This is not a "brand" issue but a physics issue, and many people call us because they put a new alternator on the car and the volts are still low, or the windows go up slowly. Many times this can be solved with a $10 pulley and some simple math. The same can be said for the high-end builds. People build engines and computers to take 8,000 rpm, but they don't slow down the accessories (i.e., alternator), and then at the top end, they blow them up. We put a pulley sheet in every box and have a calculator on the Web site. We'll also do the math on the phone with customers. Making sure the alternator is spinning within its design limits will assure long life and excellent output.
MM&FF: How do the PA starters differ from the factory '92-later models.
RH: Essentially, we have sourced all new parts for these with lifetime warranties. They're the same size as the '92-and-up starters, but they're stronger, and the high-quality parts make them unique. Ford made these in a variety of outputs (torques). A 1.1 kw was the most common, with some cars moving up to 1.5, and 1.7 on the trucks. We build them all at 1.4-1.7 kw. Unfortunately, there are some people who import these things for like 35 and 40 bucks. They look pretty and sell fast on eBay or the Internet, but they aren't very good quality. It's hard to tell from the outside, but there's quite a wide range of quality.
 With The extra juice that...  With The extra juice that the new alternator will be putting out, the stock wiring isn't really sufficient to handle the current, so we opted to install PA Performance's four-gauge long-power wire kit, which includes a 200-amp fuse. The PA wire works in conjunction with the stock power leads to help carry the load of the high-amp alternator. With the battery cable still disconnected, we used a coat hanger taped to the power wire to pull it under our radiator support bracket. |  The Shorter end of the wire...  The Shorter end of the wire near the fuse box is fastened to the positive side of the starter solenoid. The extra terminals attached to this post show you just how much ancillary equipment we have charged to the electrical system; all the more reason for a stout charging-system upgrade. |  We Routed the power wire behind...  We Routed the power wire behind the air filter box and then over to the alternator. |
 For Space reasons, you'll...  For Space reasons, you'll need to attach the power wire to the stud on the alternator from one side, and then attach the stock power leads from the opposite side. |  The White wire with black...  The White wire with black stripe is connected to the PA alternator, thanks to its new plug. |  Here's Our voltmeter at idle,...  Here's Our voltmeter at idle, hanging high in the sky even with everything electrical at full clip. That's the benefit of having a properly engineered charging system that's capable of meeting the demands of your high-powered Pony. |