PA Performance Alternator Conversion Kit Mustang Install - Dimmer Switch

MM&FF: What are the most common misconceptions you hear with regard to Mustang charging systems and requirements?

RH: We hear it all, but most people think that an upgrade is an upgrade, and truth be told, all 130-amp units are not made equal. There's a price difference for a reason. The OEM 130-amp units are better than the stock Fox 65-amp units, but they're a far cry from what we build. We also build 200- and 240-amp siblings to them. The other unfortunate situation is that people are selling really bad-quality units on eBay, and they're giving everyone a bad rap because of high failures and low output.

MM&FF: Is it important to wire auxiliary pumps and fans with a relay. If so, why?

RH: I would say that wiring anything with a high-amp draw can be helped with relays. Electrically, it makes sense to let the relay handle the larger loads, but it also helps to protect the alternator. The voltage regulators are fragile, electrically. Back in the '60s and '70s, the "test" for an alternator was to remove a battery cable while the car was running. If the car died, then the alternator was bad. With today's sophisticated electronics, that's the worst possible thing people can do now. The arc or voltage spike created by doing that is deadly to an alternator's circuit, and any computer in the car can really be harmed by that. Improper jump-starting procedures can do that, too. Remember the old rules: turn both cars off, hook the cables up by positive-to-positive, negative to ground then start the good car, then start the dead car. People just tend to let the good car run and then connect positive-to-positive and negative-to-negative, and when that last connection is made, there's a big spike from positive to ground.

MM&FF: What should one look at when considering an upgrade to an electric fan?

RH: That's certainly an individual decision, but there are a lot of good cfm fans out there that don't draw a million amps. One thing we see a lot, which can be a misconception, is that people buy the OEM fans from a wrecked Lincoln, Contour, or other car, and although they move air, they draw about 60 or so amps. That's just not necessary, and it's hard on the alternator and battery. The other thing, with any larger amp upgrade, is the wiring. People tend to use wire that is much too small. Electricity is like air to an engine. You can have 1,000 hp, but if you have a 1 1/2-inch exhaust, it won't breathe. It will run, but it will be restricted. Electricity is the same. If you have a big alternator, you need big cables and grounds, as it has to complete the circle efficiently.

MM&FF: What are the most important things one needs to consider when buying a PA alternator?

RH: The most important things in buying any alternator are quality and size. Make sure you buy as much quality as your budget allows. Our units aren't for everyone-we get that, but we do build the highest-quality and highest-output units at each size level on the market, and support that with tech and customer service. We also go one more step in offering a wide range of conversion plugs and kits to adapt the modern technology units safely to the older cars where they can utilize that power reliably.

Another thing is to do the math and make sure you're buying one large enough (in output) to do the work. Alternators aren't meant to work at 100 percent capacity, so buy it with reserve. Volts and amps are inverse, so buying extra capacity not only gives them room to grow, it also yields a higher static voltage in the car-and we all know that ignitions, fuel pumps, and accessories love voltage.