Stock-Block 535HP Screamer - D.S.S. Engine Build

Main Girdle and Pump Install
At this point, the main girdle was installed. Once in place, the driveshaft and oil pump were positioned and, together with the pickup, bolted down.

The next item to be positioned was the windage plate. This design seems exclusive to D.S.S. We have not tried a before-and-after test on this windage/oil scraper plate, but since all of our D.S.S. motors have performed well, we have no reason to question its function. That's a test for a future build maybe.

Once in place, the oil pickup/pan floor clearance was checked. This should be about 31/48 inch. Usually only minor adjustments are needed to achieve this, and such adjustments can be done with a rubber mallet.

Cam Selection And Timing
The cam used in our 331 was a solid Hi-Tech 0.420-inch lift roller grind from Comp Cams. This featured an intake lobe delivering 266 degrees duration at 0.050 inch lift and 302 at 0.020, with 0.652 net lift with the 1.6:1 rockers we intended to use. On the exhaust side was a lobe with 272 degrees at 0.050, and 308 at 0.020 and 0.652 net lift. The lobes were ground on a 108 LCA and, to get the best power curve, the cam needed to be installed with the intake centerline on 104 degrees.

By any standards, this is a big cam, and there was a little concern that it may be too much for the job (i.e., make too much power at too high an rpm). But because the ramps on these profiles are designed to be dynamically easy on the valvetrain, we left that part of the engine spec as is. If you're looking for a durable, power-producing cam, these Hi-Tech 0.420 roller profiles from Comp are well worth considering.

To make sure the cam could be timed in "right on," Comp's adjustable timing set PN 8138 was used. Once the cam was correctly timed in, the front cover was installed, followed by the pan. A one piece Fel-Pro pan gasket was used here as it is a reusable item, allowing the pan to be pulled and replaced without the need for a new gasket.

Damper, Turning Torque, and TDC
The next item to install was the crank damper. This has to be done with an approved style of installation tool. The hot damper and hammer method is absolutely not approved. If you have to install a damper, Auto Zone has a loaner tools program, which refunds 100 percent of the deposit upon return of the tools.

At this stage, we can do a meaningful turning torque test as the long-block is now complete with all the seals, plus cam and timing gear. Adding the most recently installed parts upped the turning torque to 17 lb-ft. This is a great number for a short-block with otherwise-stock tension rings.

Our next move was to establish TDC for the purposes of knowing, and setting, ignition timing. This needs to be done before the heads go on. Doing it after is possible but usually not as accurate. A bore bridge dial stand as seen here is the preferred way to go, but the job can be done equally well using a regular magnetic base-just remember to set up the indicator on the piston centerline to minimize the effect of piston rock in the bore. The D.S.S. pointer shown here has to be one of the best we've seen for a small-block Ford.

The last job, before moving on to the cylinder head install, is to fit the water pump. Here you need to make sure that the pump's designed direction of rotation is in the right direction for the application. Engines before the use of serpentine belts require a forward rotation, and ones for use with serpentine belts are, for the most part, reverse rotation.

Cylinder Heads
Because of their taller-than-stock height, the lifters must be installed before the heads go on. To complement our Comp Cams roller cam, a set of Comp's regular race rollers, PN 838-16, were used.