Gangsta's biggest problem is a lack of rear-end gear ratio to get it into its powerband, but we'll tackle that in another installment. In the meantime, we wanted to try and make the most of the power it did have by using a set of rear lower control arms to maximize efficiency and minimize the absorption of power (or lack of efficiency) in the chassis and suspension. Steeda was kind enough to furnish Gangsta with a set of aluminum control arms with polyurethane bushings to stiffen the suspension and reduce the weight. A lack of steering responsiveness could also be solved with Steeda's four-bolt aluminum caster/camber plates. The adjustability to the caster would allow quicker steering recovery, while the greater camber range will be useful later if Gangsta is relieved of its street duties-so we can run an extreme amount of negative camber for increased steering responsiveness. In addi-tion, the 7075 billet-aluminum alloy plates will help distribute the load across a larger surface area with its four-bolt design.
For increased grip, we nabbed a set of Nitto NT01s from our garage (left over from the DOT tire shootout). The meaty 275/35ZR18 R-compound rubber should help Gangsta pull some serious g-forces in the corners and keep us from burning up what's left of our street tires. Thanks to the previous mileage, the NT01s were basically shaved, and with its sparse tread pattern, it was practically a full slick. To mount these skins we gave Steeda a call, and they sent over a set of Ultra-Lite S197-style 18x9.5-inch wheels to clear the big brakes. Besides a good set of R-compound tires, one of the best investments any Mustang owner can make for road racing is a racing seat. The stock seats are so unsup-portive and flat that it becomes an exercise in futility to maintain seating position as your butt and shoulders slide around through the corners. A quality adjustable seat from a top manufacturer such as Corbeau can add tremendous comfort for street driving; however, I preferred to go with the 16-pound, fixed back FX1 Pro for weight savings. Though I would have liked to enlist one of Corbeau's five-point harnesses to completely lock into the seat, the lack of a rollbar would have made it unsafe in the event of a rollover, making the driver susceptible to a broken neck or compressed spine. The CG Lock seemed the perfect compromise; it would lock the lap belt while allowing mobility of the driver's upper body.
Per Steeda's instructions, the strut boot needs to be cut, or else it will push on the new caster camber plates (since Gangsta is lowered). | 
After using the provided spacer combination recommended for lowered Mustangs, the plates are bolted down and adjusted by feel prior to having the alignment done. | 
After removing the rear swaybar and unbolting the after-cat (for clearance), the stock control arms are extracted via an 18mm socket and replaced with the Steeda aluminum control arms. A jack, a helping hand, some grease, and a prybar are handy in compressing the springs and getting the LCAs into the bracket. |
To help preserve Gangsta's 4.6 mod motor, I had intended on slightly short-shifting the T45 on the road course. An Auto Meter Digital Pro Shift System (DPSS) Cobalt gauge and gauge pod seemed the best way to facilitate this as it has a built-in, programmable LED shift light. The DPSS is the Rolls Royce of shift lights, boasting four-stage programmable shift points, progressive-color shift lights, custom shift light colors, and 80 seconds of playback.
For a second safeguard against excessive engine wear, a call was placed to Royal Purple for a case of full synthetic XPR 5W30 and Purple Ice coolant additive. As an added precaution, I replaced the 50/50 coolant mix with nearly all water [and one bottle of Purple Ice] for even greater absorption of heat from the block. This, of course, means that before fall and winter begins slapping New Jersey with its stinging cold, the radiator will need to be drained again and filled with a 50/50 mix, or else the block will most likely crack when the water turns to ice. The stock power-steering fluid will also be drained from the reservoir and replaced with Royal Purple high temperature MAX EZ fluid, though the stock cooler does a good job of keeping temps in check.
The SSBC brake rotors on Gangsta are well vented and have substantial surface area, which has performed flawlessly to date in resisting fade. However, Pocono's double infield is pretty hard on brakes, and there was nothing to be gained by leaving the brake fluid to chance. The brakes would need to be bled significantly and fed a fresh supply of Motul RBF 600, one of the best fluids on the market, with a dry boiling point of 594 degrees F and a wet boiling point of 421degrees F. Following the swapping of fluids, Gangsta will also need a full inspection by Crazy Horse, which is required by NASA prior to turning your first lap. Keep reading for more information on the inspection, the buildup, and the track-day experience.
The Steeda arms were fit to the Mustang. | 
Unfortunately, the stock tie-rod ends weren't meant to handle the intense heat that road racing can dish out, and the stockers had began to squeak as the result of a cracked rubber boot. This is a common occurrence and usually one of the things Winter looks for when inspecting cars prior to an open-track day. We replaced them with a heavy-duty, greasable variety from Moog so this wouldn't happen again. | 
The brake pads were checked next, and they far exceeded NASA's regulation of 50 percent wear. SSBC provided a new set of track pads for the Force 10 front and Cobra-style rear brakes. Installing a new set of high-temperature pads is highly recommended as a single open-track day can easily eat up an entire set of pads. Having separate street and track pads, and changing them trackside, is ideal. Keeping track of your brake-pad life is one of the most important things you can do as it can save your life. We can't stress this enough. |
Knell used a pump to bleed the brakes, and as you can see, the fluid was quite dark. | 
It's a good thing we decided to replace the majority of it. NASA recommends fresh fluid for each event. | 
After speaking with road-racing aficionado Jeff Lacina, I went online to www.pegasusautoracing.com and purchased two bottles of Motul RBF 600 DOT 4 Brake Fluid. With a dry boiling point of 594 degrees F and a wet boiling point of 421 degrees F, it was the best stuff on the market besides the unbelievably expensive Castrol SRF. |