We decided to put on new brake...
We decided to put on new brake rotors. They're cheap insurance, and with the new extended-length race studs pressed in, they make for an NHRA-legal package.
Follow along as we show you how to pick up some great braking performance for chump change-it's little spent for peace of mind and improved safety.
Afterward, we were able to achieve an incredible 128.25 feetNew BedfellowsThere are many ways to seat brake pads after initial installation. Some mech-anics we spoke to like to ride the brakes for a few miles and then let them cool. Others prefer to just give them hell until they begin to smoke. We decided to follow the instructions that Maximum Motorsports recommends for most high-performance street compounds (as found in these Hawk HPS pads.)
First off, begin with either a freshly resurfaced set of rotors or buy new ones if you want to play it safe. If you're using Hawk pads on a used rotor that was previ-ously fitted with another brand's pad, it's recommended that you sand the surface with 130-grit sandpaper to remove contaminants from the surface.
For the actual break-in, make 6 to 10 moderate stops consecutively from 30 mph without dragging the brakes in between. Then just cruise along and let the brakes cool before you make two or three hard stops from 40 mph. Let the brakes cool as you return home, and you're all set.
For race-compound pads, Maximum Motorsports still suggests that you not mix brands on the same rotor, recommending proper preparation or a rotor change as before. If your competition vehicle is equipped with brake ducts, they should be blocked off for this procedure. With medium pedal effort, slow the car from 70 to 40 mph about six to eight times. Let the car cool by driving around without applying the brakes, and then make six to eight intense stops from 100 to 50 mph. Once cooled, the pads are ready for your next round.
On the calipers, we simply...
On the calipers, we simply removed the rubber guide sleeves and installed the new stainless steel units by Maximum Motorsports. These effectively locate the caliper on the spindle more positively in relation to the brake rotor. This also promotes even pad wear and more consistent braking.
The outer pads are specific...
The outer pads are specific to each side of the car. Each pad will have an "L" or "R" that designates which side it belongs on. The inner pads go in first and simply pop into the caliper's single 60mm piston. Here, we load the pads dry, without any chemicals, as these Hawk versions come with an antisqueal shim from the factory.
This is how the pads should...
This is how the pads should sit when you're ready to load them onto the spindle. This is a good time to make sure that the tips of your caliper bolts glide smoothly into the new sleeves. If not, run an 111/432-inch drill bit through them to clean them up.
With the caliper on, here...
With the caliper on, here is the completed front brake package. Don't forget to spray the rotor with brake cleaner to remove any grimy fingerprints.
The fitting on all the stainless...
The fitting on all the stainless brake lines will not fit into the car's mounting brackets. We used a carbide bit on a die grinder to open the hole and allow the larger fitting to pass through.
Once modifieD, the line's...
Once modifieD, the line's retainer clip can be reinstalled. On certain year cars, we've noticed that the passenger-side hardline is sometimes a different thread size than what most aftermarket hoses will accept. We had no problem on our '90 LX.
Time to call your friends...
Time to call your friends over for a brake-bleeding party. To remove all the dirty fluid and air bubbles, have someone pump out as much as possible while you watch the hose and container receiving the old fluid. By submerging the end of the hose in the container, you will prevent air from going back into the caliper each time the pedal is released. Once you feel that all the old fluid is flushed out, start closing the valve each time the pedal is about to go up, and reopen it when the pedal is about to go back down. This builds up some pressure changes in the system, forcing the last bit of air out. Once you get a firm pedal, you're done.
For our testing, we used a...
For our testing, we used a Stalker radar gun that not only measures acceleration and speed, but deceleration as well. For consistent before and after numbers, we spooned on a fresh set of Nitto NT450s in front and NT555Rs in back, all in 245/50/16 sizing. They proved grippy and are a great street/strip combo.
As yOU can see, our Mustang...
As yOU can see, our Mustang now stops at much shorter distances. Our camera was not moved from its location from the first photo when we baselined this test.
With our expectations high,...
With our expectations high, based on how the car felt in real-world driving, we were able to record excellent numbers after our upgrade. Here, our highly compensated technical experts Scott Parker and David Strazzeri go over the numbers on the laptop. From a previous best of 164.92 feet from 60 mph, we dropped it to 128.25 feet-a sizable 22 percent difference of 36.67 feet. That's more than two car lengths. Brake response and pedal feel are also greatly improved.