Noted Mustang racer Carlo...
Noted Mustang racer Carlo Catalanotto applies black powder to a piece of 2x3 square frame. Our piece of frame was cleaned, coated, and cured in less than an hour.
You've just finished a complete makeover of your Mustang that turned it from an ordinary ponycar to a rolling shrine of style and performance. The unfortunate part is that underneath the pretty paint, behind the sweet dubs, and next to the billet components, are boring metal brackets that can be an eyesore as weather and time take their toll. Restore the luster and enhance the appearance of those raw and exposed metal objects using a do-it-yourself powdercoating kit from Summit Racing (PN SUM-01-6100). The process is quick, easy, and can be done at home thanks to the environmental friendliness of the Summit kit.
Powdercoating is a great alternative to painting parts because the finish is more durable and longer lasting. Powdercoating can be best described as a thermosetting powder that is sprayed onto a metal piece. Low-voltage electric current runs through the piece to electrically charge it so the powder sticks to the surface. High-school science taught us that opposite electric magnetic fields attract, therefore the powder clings to the electrified metal. Once the part is covered, it's cooked in an oven at 400 degrees. The powder melts when baked at that temperature for 10-15 minutes. A bond is formed between the individual dust particles and the metal part-the result is a flexible, corrosive-, impact-, and scratch-resistant coating that will last for years.
Prepping the product is extremely...
Prepping the product is extremely important because grease, oil, and rust will hamper the looks and finish of the final product.
Any metal piece can be coated, from control arms and rearend housings to A/C and super-charger brackets. The components will need to be broken down and fully stripped of pieces that are heat sensitive. For example, if you're coating suspension pieces, then the rubber bushings will need to be removed along with other items that cause interference, such as bearings, clamps, nuts, bolts, and so on. The procedure requires an electric oven. Once that oven is involved in a powdercoating project, it can never be used for food preparation again.
The first step of the process-and the most critical-is to clean the parts. The cleaner the surface, the smoother and better the powdercoating will look. Failure to remove grease, rust, oil, and the like will result in a poor finish. The instructions have several recommendations on how to clean the part. Powdercoating can be laid over painted products, provided that paint can withstand temperatures around 400 degrees-if not, then strip the part to the bare metal. We received an interesting tip after we coated a few things for this story: Preheat the part at 150 degrees for a few minutes before spraying on the powder. This eliminates the orange-peel look that's oftentimes present on a powdercoated product. Another cause for orange peel can be traced back to a dirty surface or incomplete cure.
We taped off half of our square-tube...
We taped off half of our square-tube frame to illustrate the difference between powdercoating and bare metal. Over time, the powdercoated surface will retain its luster and the metal will be protected. The unfinished portion will eventually corrode, let alone be ugly looking.
Once the part is cleaned, it will be either hung or laid on top of the oven rack. The instructions recommend hanging the parts for a clean and even coating, otherwise the bottom side will have lines from the oven rack. Support the oven rack between two objects such as jackstands or chairs. If you're only coating the top portion of the part, then it's OK to lay it on the oven rack rather than suspend it. Summit supplies 10 two-inch wire hangers to suspend the part under the grill.
The application gun is filled with powder, and Summit offers 20 different colors. We chose black for this story, as we will be using the kit to coat most of our suspension products. The ground clip is required to be attached directly to the component, grille, or hooks. The next step is to let it rip and squeeze the trigger to shoot the powder on to the subject. Keep the gun approximately 6 inches away while applying the powder. Make sure the powder is evenly applied to the entire surface.

Our prep time was minimal...

Our prep time was minimal because we started with a somewhat clean piece of square tubing. If your parts are in bad shape, consider using a bead-blasting method or chemical stripping. If you chemical strip sheetmetal and such, you should consider dipping them in a phosphate bath to clean off the chemicals.

Remove the cup from the gun...

Remove the cup from the gun by unlocking and twisting it. If you're using multiple colors, it's suggested you purchase a separate cup for each color. Or you can clean it using cold water, being sure to dry the cup thoroughly with a cloth.

Fill the cup with the powder-we...

Fill the cup with the powder-we chose black for this application.

The application gun plugs...

The application gun plugs into the wall and a ground clip (shown) is attached to the component, oven grille, or hanger.

Apply the powder evenly over...

Apply the powder evenly over the product by holding the gun approximately 6 inches away. Use smooth, even strokes so the part is covered correctly.

Be sure to cover the entire...

Be sure to cover the entire area that you want powdercoated.

We used a convection oven...

We used a convection oven that baked our square tube frame at 400 degrees. It took approximately 15 minutes for the process to be completed.

Be careful when you shut down...

Be careful when you shut down the oven and retrieve the product. We had to open the garage door for fresh air-it got a little smoky when we opened the oven door.

We would've loved to have...

We would've loved to have powdercoated this 8.8-inch rearend ourselves, but it was too large for a our tiny oven. It was sourced out to a local powdercoating shop. By the end of the day, we had powdercoated quite a few parts ourselves, including Wolfe Race Craft upper and lower control arms, as well as a pair of Skinny Kid Race Cars caster/camber plates. The process was quick and easy as each part took approximately 30 minutes to clean, coat, and bake.