
A pair of Strange double-adjustable...

A pair of Strange double-adjustable coilover shocks have been installed on this stock-suspension Mustang racer. This type of shock is usually installed using custom mounts.

This is a comparison of the...

This is a comparison of the BMR upper control arm mounting bracket for '05-up Mustangs (left) and the factory piece (right). The BMR piece is stronger and offers a lower control arm mounting point to help the chassis hit the tire harder on the launch.

The aggressive pulling and...

The aggressive pulling and pushing by the control arms eventually takes it toll on what are called the torque boxes. It is recommended that you install some sort of fortified torque box replacement system, like the one pictured from UPR Products. Many chassis shops go one step further and add kick-outs from the rollbar to those soft areas to help sturdy them up.

UPR's chrome-moly tubular...

UPR's chrome-moly tubular K-member kit drops 67 pounds off the front nose of your Mustang. According to Jeremy Martorella, it can be installed in your driveway in as little as three hours. Getting weight off the front helps weight transfer at the dragstrip.
Cascio offers some suggestions for spring rates for front coil-over struts. He said, "We make a conversion kit to convert our struts to utilize a coil-over spring. Normally we suggest starting with a 175-pound spring. It all really depends on some factors, like if there is an intercooler, turbo, or blower up front, or anything else that alters the weight of the front end." There is a stigma in the Mustang market that sometimes the car doesn't transfer as well with the coilover-style struts. Cascio says the problem is probably sourced to having the wrong struts or strut adjustment, wrong springs, or even having the front end too low.
Getting weight off the front end helps your Mustang transfer weight better and accelerate down the track quicker.
Aftermarket Drag Race-Only Suspensions
The Mustang certainly benefits from a stout factory suspension system that works great on the dragstrip. There comes a time, however, when more traction and adjustability are required. It might be because the owner wants to stuff a large-size tire underneath the car for consistency or the power under the hood is over the top (is there such a thing as over the top?). If that's the case, then the aftermarket offers two types of replacement rear suspension systems-a ladder bar or a four-link.
The ladder-bar suspension is the simpler of the two as there are two bars that connect the rearend to the chassis. It is a single mounting point for each side of the rearend, and the bars are shaped like an A-arm. The ladder-bar mounts have a variety of holes to which the ladder bar can be bolted. These fixed mounting locations offer more or less shock to the tire on the launch. The ladder bars come in various lengths, with 32-inch and 36-inch bars being the most popular sizes.
Four-link rear suspensions are a lot like the '79-'04 Mustang rear suspensions in that the rearend attaches to the chassis through four links. The aftermarket four-link setup mounts straight (front to back), rather than angled inward like the stock upper control arms. "You have infinite adjustability of the instant center with a four-link," MacPherson says. "The instant center is the intersect point of the upper and lower four-link bars. It allows the car to lift the most weight and transfer it the best to the back of the car. It is all about transfer. Ladder bars have a predetermined instant center due to the length of the bars."
Ladder bars and four-links can be installed in stock-chassis Mustangs as well as what is called a back-half car. A back-half car is one where the rear subframe has been cut away and a new one has been installed. Usually the new subframes are narrower, allowing larger and taller tires to be installed. Perfect examples of a back-half car are the popular Outlaw 10.5 race cars. They feature stock-style front suspension systems with fabricated back-half framerails.
"Four-links are a thing of the past with real 10.5-inch tires and are mostly used now in big-tire cars [33x10.5W and larger slicks.-Ed.]," MacPherson says. Either way, no matter the horsepower, the aftermarket has something to help your Mustang stay hooked up on the track.

A bumpsteer kit is included...

A bumpsteer kit is included in the UPR front-end package to straighten the wheels and keep them perpendicular to the track at all times.

Caster/camber plates mount...

Caster/camber plates mount on top of the strut tower and are used to align the car properly so it drives straight on the dragstrip.

Competition Engineering's...

Competition Engineering's four-link suspension offers the most adjustability of any drag-racing-style suspension. There are four bars that mount parallel to each other. It isn't a bolt-on item; it is reserved for drag-racing-only applications. This is the type of rear suspension that is under Pro 5.-0 and Outlaw 10.5-style Mustangs.

Ladder bars are simple and...

Ladder bars are simple and effective. This setup is from DMC Racing and has been used in Manny Buginga's small-tire freak that has run 7.11 at 206 mph on real 10.5-inch slicks, not 10.5Ws.

Here's another fine example...

Here's another fine example of a great-working Mustang on the dragstrip. Zoop Zellonis saw nothing but sky for several hundred feet down the track.