Ford 5.0 Engine Build - Bolt-Up 5.0 power

Timing the Cam
Having diligently selected a cam that is essentially a known performer, it makes sense to time it so that it actually delivers the intended valve event timing. Another factor you should know is that a cam with too much retard has more negative impact on the power curve than one with too much advance. We had to shoot for 4 degrees advance, but 5 or 6 would still be OK, whereas 3 would not. To achieve the desired timing, we used Comp's nine-keyway sprocket set. This gave us the ability to adjust in 2-degree increments. By using this timing set, the called-for 106-degree intake centerline timing was precisely achieved. At this point, the valvetrain for the No. 1 cylinder was assembled, as was the optimum pushrod length to produce a centrally placed sweep over the valve tip. With that knowledge, a call was put into Comp to ship us the requested length.

The next valvetrain item we need to talk about is the rockers. Crane rockers were selected because our own tests had shown they had the geometry to lift the valves a little quicker off the seat than most others out there. This is important. Remember, we are now using a roller cam, which has less acceleration in the first 7-10 degrees than a flat tappet. This is the downside of a roller, but it can be compensated for in part by making an informed choice when it comes to rockers. Crane 1.7:1 rockers were considered here as we are looking for all the lift possible, but they would have put the system dangerously close to spring-coil bind. Our second choice was the 1.6, and this is what we went with.

Heads and Intake
Obviously, before the top half of the valvetrain could be installed, the heads had to go on. We used Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, and the justification for using these is covered in detail in the "Cylinder Heads" sidebar. As usual, our head gaskets of choice were from Fel-Pro, as were all the other gaskets. As with our previous build, the intake chosen was an Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap. It delivers the bottom end Edelbrock says it will, but given enough carb capacity, much more top-end output and rpm than the company claims. Based on our dyno testing, our recom-mendations for carburetion are a 650 for cams up to about 275 degrees duration and a 700-750 for 280 or more.

Remember, before you take these recom-mendations as being universal, they apply to a dual-plane intake, which has substantially different requirements than a single-plane unit. For carburetion, we started the ball rolling with our trusty 750 vacuum secondary Road Demon from Barry Grant. As you can see from the lead shot of the finished engine, the induction system was complemented by an AED throttle linkage and bracket. If you want to really spoil yourself and get a smart, functional, throttle linkage into the bargain, this is what you should use.

Ignition System
In most cases, if we see the opportunity to make life simpler and still achieve the goals at hand, we take that route. Using a Performance Distributors, Ford-adapted, GM H.E.I. does just that. These distributors come from Performance Distributors with a custom advance curve that is just right for the job. In addition, it is capable of delivering a race-intensity spark to about 9,000 rpm in a manner as precise as we would all like. Lastly, and probably most importantly, it's a one-wire hook-up deal. Just connect the red wire to 12V on the positive side and your entire ignition system is ready to go. Now how simple can that be?

As for plug cables, we usually use Accel's bright-yellow wire wind 8mm race stuff. When our engine builder, Mike Keena-Levin, got around to the plug-to-distributor wiring, it was found we had only the Accel super-high-temperature heat-resistant, black cables in our stock of parts. Now you may well ask where the snag is here-that is, if you even thought there was one. The truth is that Accel's yellow cables are more than up to the job-and are photogenic, to boot. Our Accel high-temperature black cables are known to do a great job on the dyno. Here, the exhaust heat is far more destructive to plug boots than when the engine is installed in a car. If your budget allows, consider running these high-temperature Accel cables, especially if you have headers really close to the boots. In all other cases, I would say save yourself some money and use the Accel wire wound yellow (or red) cables.

Water Pump
Any 5.0 Ford application could end up with one of two water pumps, these being the forward and reverse rotation items. Since we're never sure of the ultimate application of our project engines, life normally gets a lot simpler by dynoing with an electric water pump. Not only is this simpler for the test installation but, in most cases, there is horsepower to be had, as mechanical water pumps can absorb up to as much as 10 hp. As you can see from our lead shot, we have a CSI pump installed.