As installation is available for all of their products, BBR's Jones and Dave Massey performed our head/cam swap at their shop. If you plan to take on this endeavor yourself, there are a few things you'll need, including new Ford head bolts (ARP doesn't offer 3V studs yet, though the 2V and 4V studs look like they will work), an upper gasket kit (PN 4R3Z6079AA), a lower gasket kit (PN 4R3Z6EO78AA), some assembly lube, and the phone number for your local Ford dealer in case you break the coolant sensor, like we did. It felt like it was threading in easily, when it snapped off. Removing it from the surprisingly high-mileage (65,000 on the odometer) engine might have weakened it prior to installing it on the new cylinder head, though.
This was your author's first time seeing a mod motor dismantled and put back together in person, and understanding how the whole thing goes together really took away some of the stigma associated with chain drives. They really aren't that bad-probably no worse than changing the cam on a 5-liter.
Unfortunately, time constraints did not allow us to baseline our subject vehicle, but average stock numbers for the Three-Valve Mustang are around 262-265 hp and 280 lb-ft of torque as measured at the wheels on the Dynojet. Our test subject was modified with an off-road x pipe system and Magnapack mufflers, so figure in an extra 5-10 ponies on top.
Once the engine was together, tuning commenced, and equipped with the Stage 1 cams and Stage 2 heads, the '05 put down 330 hp and 320 lb-ft of torque to the tires.
While we had planned to test BBR's Stage 2 cams as well, our portable dynamometer had to head out, but not before we tossed on a JLT cold-air intake. The big, open element delivered, raising horsepower to 351 and torque to 336. The new heads and cams are obviously moving more air than the stock induction system can deliver, and with a gain of around 70 normally-aspirated rear-wheel horsepower, your S197 Mustang GT should get up and go lots faster.
In addition to the Stage 2 cams, we were looking to test a set of long-tube headers from American Racing Headers, but we ran out of time. Be sure to check the Horse's Mouth section in the next issue where we'll update you on the Pony's progress.
The 65,000 miles had deposited...
The 65,000 miles had deposited a bit of sand in the coil pack area, so prior to removing them, we used a shop vacuum to get rid of the debris.
Keep working the harnesses...
Keep working the harnesses and disconnecting the various wires until you gain enough room to remove the cam covers.
The alternator support bracket...
The alternator support bracket and alternator are next. Loosen the bottom alternator bolts and it will slide up and out.
Remove the water crossover...
Remove the water crossover tube.
Then, remove the cam covers....
Then, remove the cam covers. Be careful not to tear the rubber gaskets as these can be reused.
The timing cover is next....
The timing cover is next. To release it, you'll need to unbolt the power steering pump and A/C compressor from the sides. Then remove the water pump, the four oil pan bolts, and the harmonic damper. It sounds like a lot of work, but it goes pretty quickly.
Carefully pry the cover around...
Carefully pry the cover around its perimeter until it becomes unseated. Remove it and its rubber seal.
With the timing cover out...
With the timing cover out of the way, we now have access to the timing chains, gears, and tensioners.
Squeeze the tensioners to...
Squeeze the tensioners to create enough slack to remove the two bolts that secure them to the block. Then remove the chain guides. The tensioners expand thanks to pressure from the oiling system. Don't squeeze all of the oil out of them, or the chains can jump a tooth at startup.