I have an ’03 Cobra and I’m having a Hellion twin-turbo kit installed. It’s a Ford Racing Boss 5.0 block with a Kellogg stroker crank. I’m using my factory heads, but I had them ported, as well as a valve job with bronze guides by Fox Lake.
I almost had the tuning complete on E85, and one morning on start-up heard what sounded like a loose rocker arm. I pulled the passenger-side valve cover to inspect the valvetrain and found the rear exhaust valve rocker was loose enough to remove by hand. The exhaust valveguide is sticking and won’t close.
According to Fox Lake, it just happens sometimes on these cars. Is this a common problem? Is there anything I can do to prevent this from happening again so it doesn’t ruin my new motor?
Eric, Fox Lake is correct—it happens sometimes, but not often. It could have been a little bit of debris was caught between the guide and valve stem, causing it to gall up and then stick. I’ve had this happen on my race engines—so although it’s rare, it can happen. I wouldn’t worry about it happening again; Fox Lake has a reputation for quality work.
I have a ’96 Mustang GT with a T-45. I need to replace it and would like to use a performance T-45. There is no one in my area that specializes in these, so an online order seems to be my best option. Do you have any recommendations for a good company I could work with to get one?
D&D Performance is a great company for all five- or six-speed applications, including your T-45. Quality work and great customer service is what they are known for. Check it out at www.ddperformance.com or call 248/735-6220.
Too Tight Tranny
I’m looking for info on the correct position of the T-56 in a Fox. The car is a ’90 notch, originally equipped with a four-cylinder. I’m installing a 331 Windsor, and my trans was purchased new from the Ford dealer.
The engine and trans are in the car and the shifter is centered, but the output yoke on the trans is only an inch from the tunnel sheetmetal on the passenger side. The space between the engine and right shock tower seems a little close, too. I’m using the stock four-cylinder K-member with convertible motor mounts.
Joseph, for a complete run- down on how we did this swap, visit www.muscle mustangfastfords.com and look in the Tech section for “Ford Mustang T-56 Six-Speed Transmission 6 Ways To Slam Gears.” The T-56 fits well but was a little tighter.
Contact D&D Performance (www.ddperformance.com), which offers a swap kit that makes this job go smoothly. D&D can also answer any other questions you may have. It’s possible that your crossmember is not correct, causing the transmission to be closer then it should be. D&D has the correct crossmember that locates the transmission where it should be. Your K-member is correct for this swap.
I have a ’95 Mustang GT convertible Gold Edition. Can you tell me about it?
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Dwight, the ’95 Mustang GT with the Gold package was dealer installed and consisted of gold GT emblems, the running horse, and Ford badges. The package has no performance upgrade or trim—it was just a dealer-added gold-emblem package.
I have an ’87 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 with the speed density intake setup. What are the best modifications for my motor (without changing to a MAF setup)? I understand the camshaft situation, but what else can be done to improve performance? I’ve never seen a build dealing with Fords or Mustangs that retains the speed density setup.
I am first focusing on handling rather than horsepower, but I need to know how much power I can expect to get from my little speed density 5.0.
Daniel, you are correct about the camshaft change with speed density. Intake, exhaust, and even cylinder heads will work fine with with no tuning. Supercharging will also work with speed density. The drawback is that when a cam change is made, tuning is required.
Speed density responds very well to tuning. If you don’t know a good tuning shop, then stick with what I suggested.
Biting The Billet
In the Nov. ’13 issue, Elisa Coon in “Our One-Day DIY Roush Install” wrote that the stock motor of her white GT failed due to an oil pump gear. Was that issue addressed with her new Aluminator to avoid the same issue? What upgrades are available? Is this issue specifically for boosted applications?
Michael, Aluminator XS comes with billet gears addressing any issues of oil pump failure. You can get the oil pump assembly with the billet gear set from Ford Racing for the standard Aluminators and all other 5.0 applications. It’s not specific to the blower application. All engines would benefit with billet gears for added safety when modifying any 5.0.