Hungry For Deep-Dish
I bought an 2001 Mustang GT in September 2012. It has a lot of miles on it, but it is clean and I like it. Eventually, I want to put some work into it. I’m thinking about starting with the suspension and wheels.
Everything on it is stock now. Can you tell me the purpose of deep-dish wheels, and which way I should go as far as trying to improve handling without lowering the height of the car?
Via the Internet
Beesco01, you can improve the handling on your 2001 Mustang without changing the ride height. Aftermarket sway bars and struts from Steeda and Eibach, and shocks from companies like Koni, Tokico, and Bilstein will increase your handling, while retaining your stock springs and height. AmericanMuscle.com has a complete line of the suspension parts you need.
Deep-dish wheels are part of styling, and it’s a look that many people like. These wheels are typically wider, allowing for wider tires, which will also improve handling. Wheel packages today are offered in many styles to fit your car, so all you need to do is choose what you like best.
I recently picked up a set of Edelbrock E-Street heads, with a 2.02 intake valve size, and only after the purchase did I realize what I had purchased. I have read most of the conflicting information (do not buy), and all of their problems. But then I noticed that your magazine used these heads on a build, SSP coupe in 2009, with seemingly decent results. I have also heard that with some work, they are not all that bad.
I have already ordered K-Motion K-750 springs and I’m concerned if there is anything else you would suggest. The heads came with a “B” cam, and I already have a ported GT-40 tubular intake, C&L 75mm MAF, 75mm throttle body, Mac 13/4-inch long-tubes, and more. Also, if there is a piston-to-valve clearance issue, do you recommend cutting the piston reliefs, or trying a thicker gasket? I need some advice on this.
Cliffside Park, New Jersey
Nick, the E-Street heads from Edelbrock are very good. In spite of what you heard or read, they will make good power with the right parts. The K-Motion valvesprings are a good choice, and are overlooked many times when upgrading heads. Keeping the valvetrain stable is the key to making good power throughout the rpm range.
The B303 cam does not require your pistons to be notched for valve clearance, but I always recommend checking piston-to-valve clearance anytime a cam and heads are upgraded.
I bought a Vortech V-3 supercharger for my 347 stroker, which already has Trick Flow Specialties heads and intake, 24-lb/hr injectors, and larger fuel rails with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Do I have to use the Vortech’s FMU, or can I just keep what I have until I save up and switch to 40-lb/hr injectors and a fuel pump?
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HondaKiller83, I do not recommend using the stock fuel pump, and the FMU will work but it is old school. The stock pump will not supply the adequate fuel for a supercharged application. The FMU richens the air/fuel ratio to under full boost, a must when supercharged. If either of these upgrades is not done, you risk severe detonation. This will cause serous engine damage, and is not worth the risk.
I have an 2005 Mustang that started life as 4.0L. This past winter, we installed an 2006 4.6L with a ProCharger. With the coming of warm weather, I have had overheating problems that we cannot seem to figure out.
We have installed a 160-degree thermostat, drained and flushed the coolant, and all to no avail. The kicker is, I can drive in stop-and-go traffic with no issues at all. It only overheats when driving at or above 65 mph or under heavy boost. When it does overheat, I simply drive at 55 mph and all goes back to normal.
Rudi, from my experience, you either have a clogged radiator, a blockage in the cooling system, or there is something wrong with the tune. Coolant flow is critical at high speed or under full throttle, and not so much at lower speed, idle, or cruise.
An easy way to check if the radiator is clogged is when the engine is at operating temperature, put your hand on the core of the radiator. All of the fins should be warm or hot. If there is a cool spot anywhere on the radiator, then it is clogged. There is also a possibility the serpentine belt is slipping, causing your water pump to not be as efficient.
I have a 1996 Mustang GT with a detonated short-block. My buddy has a Mach 1 engine he is looking to sell. What would I need to do to swap the Mach 1 engine into my ’96?
Brian, the Mach 1 engine will bolt right in. You will need the wiring harness along with the air intake to make it work. The ’94-’04 Mustangs use the same chassis and all parts will interchange. Although it is a basic engine swap, you will need the many unique parts from the Mach 1. Exhaust manifolds, or headers, are just some of the unique parts. A tune is also necessary. Swapping the ECU is more work because of the PATS.