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Getting Greedy - Getting Closer to Our Goals

With the aid of a new set of cylinder heads and a kickin' induction system, our '91 LX is closer to our goal of 12-second ETs.
February, 2009
By John Hedenberg
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1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Engine
Our '91 LX has been running... 
   
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1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Engine
Our '91 LX has been running very well in unmodified trim. True, we have skinnies on the front, a BBK X-pipe and header arrangement, a Maximum Motorsports suspension system and a K&N air filter (with 15 degrees of ignition timing) but the engine itself is untouched. Although a 13.86 at 97.11 mph with a worn out AOD is impressive, we desperately want to run in the 12-second zone.
1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Intake Manifold
We began our intake/head/cam... 
   
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1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Intake Manifold
We began our intake/head/cam project by removing the cover plate on the top of the stock HO intake so we could gain access to the two center bolts that route through the upper plenum.
1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Throttle Body
Before removing the upper... 
   
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1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Throttle Body
Before removing the upper plenum we first removed the stock 58mm throttle body so that we could transfer the four studs to the new Trick Flow plenum.
1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Throttle Body Study
We'll be scrapping the stock... 
   
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1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Throttle Body Study
We'll be scrapping the stock throttle body for a bigger 70mm BBK unit and will need these four studs to attach it.
1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Valve Cover
With the six plenum bolts... 
   
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1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Valve Cover
With the six plenum bolts removed we lifted it off of the stock lower intake. Note our adjustable BBK fuel pressure regulator. We installed this a few weeks ago to help adjust the extra flow that we gained from our BBK 190-lph, in-tank fuel pump.
1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Fuel Line
Before we could remove the... 
   
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1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Fuel Line
Before we could remove the fuel rails, injectors and lower intake we first had to disconnect the supply and return lines from the rails. To do this you will need to purchase fuel line-disconnect tools such as this one that we found at our local auto parts store.
1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Fuel Line Remover
The stock rails are snapped... 
   
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1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Fuel Line Remover
The stock rails are snapped into position with round springs that act like o-rings and the tool slides under the spring, permitting you to pull it free from the notch in the rail.
1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Valve Covers Removed
With the stock lower intake... 
   
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1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Valve Covers Removed
With the stock lower intake removed the next step was for the BBK 1 5/8-inch shorty headers to be unbolted. With the headers out of harms way we began to loosen the 10 (per head) cylinder head bolts.
1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Head Removed
After loosening the cylinder... 
   
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1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Head Removed
After loosening the cylinder head bolts with our trusty breaker bar we lifted them from the stock block. The block looked better than we expected and the cylinder walls had virtually no scratches on them at all.
1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Head
We coated the walls with a... 
   
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1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Head
We coated the walls with a thin film of fresh oil prior to bolting up the new head castings.
1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Block Head Removed
Now is a good time to inspect... 
   
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1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Block Head Removed
Now is a good time to inspect the cylinder walls and pistons for visible damage. Our pistons looked very good and had less carbon buildup than we expected. Before placing our new Power Heads E7TEs on the block, we used a tap to clean up the threads and then placed a new set of Rol head gaskets over the four head dowels.
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We replaced the camshaft as... 
   
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We replaced the camshaft as well. To do this, we removed the 16 stock lifters. The lifters can be removed from the block with the heads on or off the engine and come out by unbolting the retaining plate. This plate keeps the lifters from rotating in the bores and, with it removed, the eight (one per two lifters) lifter guide bars can be removed. We soaked our lifters in oil while the cam swap was taking place but it is a good idea to squirt oil down the pushrod holes after reinstalling them to help pre-lube the lifters.
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The new heads that we chose... 
   
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The new heads that we chose to run on our car are from Power Heads and are ported stock E7TE castings.
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The heads are professionally... 
   
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The heads are professionally CNC-ported and have a milled deck surface of .015-inch for more compression. New (and bigger) 1.94-inch intake and 1.60-inch stainless steel exhaust valves replace the factory ones and work with bolt-down roller rockers.
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Power Heads also offer a screw... 
   
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Power Heads also offer a screw in stud and guide plate option for stud mounted rocker arms.
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With the two Rol head gaskets... 
   
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With the two Rol head gaskets in place we lowered the two heads onto the block dowels and tightened them down to 85 lbs.-ft. torque. The upper (long) bolts do not protrude into the water jackets on the block but the lower (short) bolts do hit water. For this reason you will need to use a sealer on the threads to prevent them from eventually leaking. We used a slight amount of black RTV on ours.
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In order to replace the camshaft,... 
   
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In order to replace the camshaft, the timing chain (and water pump) will first have to be removed. We noticed that our timing chain was extremely stretched and was hitting the side of the cover when the engine was running. This was wreaking havoc on our camshaft timing and could have been disastrous had it not been caught in time.
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Another problem that we came... 
   
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Another problem that we came across was our hollow cam dowel pin. Our pin that keeps the timing chain sprocket in place was bent slightly, which also wasn't helping matters any. Our new cam was treated to a solid dowel pin and a new Ford Racing double-roller timing chain.
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With the timing chain and... 
   
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With the timing chain and cover out of the way we slid out the stock (and small) cam. Care must be taken when doing this or you will risk the chance of scuffing the camshaft bearings.
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The camshaft that we chose... 
   
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The camshaft that we chose to go with is the Anderson Ford Motorsport B-21 grind (see an AFM catalog for specs). The cam is based around a blower combination but Rick Anderson of AFM said that, due to our AOD transmission, the extra overlap of the B-21 (112 degrees) should work to our advantage. We slid the AFM cam into the block and lubed it up with fresh oil before installing the new timing chain.
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Our new Ford Racing timing... 
   
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Our new Ford Racing timing chain is fully adjustable and a ton stronger than stock. We installed it in the "straight up" position as opposed to advancing or retarding it.
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With the new heads on and... 
   
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With the new heads on and ready to go we complemented them with a new set of Crane Cams "Gold Series" Magnum roller rocker arms. The new 1.6-ratio rockers are much stronger than the stock flexible versions and will reduce internal drag with a full roller tip and body.
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We also have a set of 1.7-ratio... 
   
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We also have a set of 1.7-ratio (stock Cobra) rockers, which have .030-inch more valve lift. We'll try them out in the near future.
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We wanted to see if all was... 
   
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We wanted to see if all was good with our valve lift and installed a dial gauge on the tip of the retainer to check it. With a .015-inch shim under the rockers (our heads were milled .015-inch and so a .015-inch rocker shim was needed to prevent the lifter from collapsing), our gauge showed .500-inch lift, right on the money. Our single spring valve springs are rated to .525-inch lift so all is good there.
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Our new heads did not come... 
   
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Our new heads did not come with the threaded inserts that are needed to install the power steering and alternator brackets. The inserts thread into the front (and back) of the heads and reduce the thread size of the hole for the accessory bolts. They can also be used to plug the two holes that will be left over if you choose to eliminate the air pump tube in the rear of the engine.
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The next step was to bolt... 
   
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The next step was to bolt up the lower Trick Flow intake. Before doing that we placed our Rol intake gaskets onto the two head surfaces and used blue RTV sealer on the block ends.
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With the intake gaskets in... 
   
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With the intake gaskets in place we lowered the intake onto the engine and tightened down the bolts in a cross-cross pattern. When finished, we tightened them down to 40 lbs.-ft.
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With the lower intake on and... 
   
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With the lower intake on and buttoned up we reinstalled the two (freshly painted) valve covers and remounted the stock 19-lb. fuel injectors and rails. The 19-lb. injectors should be more than adequate for now, but we may upgrade to a set of 24-lb. versions soon, depending on how our post dyno testing goes.
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Our Trick Flow intake manifold... 
   
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Our Trick Flow intake manifold (part No. TFS-51500001) is designed to work in the idle to 5000-rpm range and has a much bigger, improved upper plenum design. It can move a ton more air than the stock unit and should really work well with our ported heads and bigger cam.
1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Trickflow Intake Manifold
With the stock distributor... 
   
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1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Trickflow Intake Manifold
With the stock distributor back in the block we were able to install the upper plenum assembly. The Trick Flow upper plenum bolts to the lower intake with four stud-mounted bolts (at the corners) and two longer bolts that protrude through the center of the plenum.
1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Throttle Body
We complemented our improved... 
   
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1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Throttle Body
We complemented our improved intake design with a 70mm BBK Performance throttle body and spacer kit. The new body is quite a bit bigger than stock and should be matched well to our bigger plenum.
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With all of the work that... 
   
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With all of the work that we did it would be a real shame to cap it off with the stock mass air meter. We jettisoned that idea and went with a C&L Performance 76mm mass air sensor. The new sensor is much bigger than stock and will be needed in order to feed the hungry plenum and head ports. The C&L meter bolts into the stock location and can be used with either a factory or open-element air filter. We tried both but it seemed to run better with the closed off (stock) box design and flat K&N filter arrangement.
1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Trickflow Intake Manifold
With the engine completed... 
   
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1991 Ford Mustang LX Underhood Trickflow Intake Manifold
With the engine completed we dropped the old oil and filled it up with a fresh dose of coolant before resetting the timing to 15 degrees BTDC. It is very, very important to replace the old oil whenever the timing cover has been removed. No matter how careful you are, some coolant from the water pump holes will work its way into the oil pan. The coolant will come out with the old oil but if left alone, severe engine damage will likely follow. Our engine indeed had a small amount of coolant in the pan but that was taken care of when the old oil was drained.
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With the engine looking and... 
   
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With the engine looking and sounding as awesome as ever we headed over to Crazy Horse Racing in South Amboy, N.J., for a little fun on the chassis dyno. Our stock numbers (with timing and air filter improvements) came in at 197.2 hp and 256.6 lbs.-ft. torque at the wheels. Our first pull with the new engine combo saw a jump to 238.4 hp and 273.4 lbs.-ft. torque--an improvement of 41.2 hp and 16.8 lbs.-ft. torque at the wheels. As mentioned, we felt that the stock 19-lb. fuel injectors could possibly be too small for the new engine combination but the air/fuel monitor on the dyno told us otherwise. We were actually way rich below 3000 rpm. After removing only 3 psi of fuel pressure from our BBK regulator, we picked up 20 hp and 25 lbs.-ft. torque at 2800 rpm. The peak power numbers stayed the same but we gained a ton of hp under the 3000-rpm range. Our air/fuel readout showed a way-rich 7:1 ratio (14.7:1 being ideal) but after the adjustment, it shot up to 12:1--still a bit rich but a much better improvement. It looks like the stock 19-lb. injectors will work just fine for now.

1. Power Heads ported stock iron cylinder heads $881.64 (with shipping)
2. Trick Flow intake $395 (Summit Racing)
3. AFM B-21 cam $269
4. BBK throttle body $189.95
5. C&L mass air sensor $229
6. Engine gaskets and oil/filter approx. $100

*These prices do not include tax and shipping.

So with the engine components totaled up they come in at $2,064.59. After adding that to our old total of $5,519.27 we arrive at a new total of $7,583.86. We are on a budget of around $10,000 and are still left with $2,416.14.

Anderson Ford Motorsport
P.O. Box 638
Clinton
IL  61727
(217) 935-3106

www.andersonfordmotorsport.com
Downs Ford Motorsport
www.thefordsource.com
BBK Performance
Temecula
CA
951/296-1771

www.bbkperformance.com
POWER HEADS PERFORMANCE, INC.
621 W. Valencia Dr., #B
Fullerton
CA  92832
C&L Performance
207 Green Cove Rd.
Huntsville
AL  35803
ROL Gaskets
8041 Broadstone Rd
Perrysburg
OH  43551
(800) 810-4067
Crane Cams
386-252-1151

www.cranecams.com
Summit Racing Equipment
Akron
OH
800/230-3030

www.summitracing.com
Crazy Horse Racing
100 S. Main St.
South Amboy
NJ  08879

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