We've done paint and body tech stories in the past. If you've seen one, then you've seen them all, right?
Well, not exactly. If you're planning on taking your own project car to a body shop to have the bodywork and paint done professionally, then this story may convince you to do it yourself. But if you're already the type of guy or gal that is down for tackling at least part of it yourself, then you've come to the right place.
Now don't take this the wrong way--the guy actually doing the work in this story is a professional, and we did the work at his shop. But everything you'll see is done with supplies that you can get from Summit Racing Equipment. And everything that we're showing you can be done in your own garage (if it's legal in your area, of course). We just wanted to show you the correct way to do everything.
The subject, our '85 Coyote coupe project car, was pretty straight and clean to start. We had originally planned on just having the car prepped and painted. But after our chosen painter Dean Santiago became involved, everything changed. Santiago, who owns and operates Spike's Performance in Ocala, Florida, is a bit of a perfectionist. He agreed to do our paint job, but we also had to allow him to do the bodywork too. "If I'm painting this car, then it's going to be done right," he said.
Granted, our coupe wasn't perfect (we knew it had a few dings and rock chips), but he found blemishes that we couldn't even see, and quite frankly, weren't even worried about. Nevertheless, we agreed to his request and hauled our roller to Ocala for its impending transformation.

Summit Racing Equipment sent...

Summit Racing Equipment sent us a slew of supplies from its Paints and Finishing section.

1a Among the supplies were...

1a Among the supplies were many products from Summit Racing's own professional line of body and paint tools and supplies....

1b ...It has hundreds of budget-minded...

1b...It has hundreds of budget-minded private label products available, like the sandpaper products shown here.
Though known mostly for its performance parts, Summit Racing Equipment carries a huge selection of paint and supplies. It carries thousands of parts, ranging from sandpaper and abrasives to waxes and polishes, and everything in between. Fillers, primers, paints, and even painting equipment and tools are available on the same Summit Racing website and catalog that you're used to browsing.
Not only does it carry popular brands like 3M, House of Kolor, Meguiar's, and Lincoln Electric, but it also has a full line of its own professional products, which is what we chose. Whether you're just detailing your Mustang or planning an entire restoration, Summit Racing has everything you need to get the job done. And best of all, you can do it all yourself.
Instead of listing every little thing that we ordered from Summit, let's just say it was a two-page invoice--most of which was Summit Racing brand. We got an array of sandpaper, primers, reducers, hardeners, fillers, activators, sealers, basecoat, and clearcoat. The paint we chose is Blue Sky Metallic from Summit's 2-Stage Urethane Paint line. This basecoat/clearcoat color is similar to the color of our rendering, and closely resembles Ford's current F-150 (and Raptor) color, Blue Flame.
Once we received our order, Santiago dove right in. He started by stripping the areas that needed to be worked on, one panel at a time. After filling, sanding, and priming, he moved on to the next area. We also unboxed our new carbon fiber hood from Motor City Solutions. Now, the body is completely primed and ready for the blocking process before paint.
Check back next month to see our coupe in the paint booth.

2 At Spike's Performance,...

2 At Spike's Performance, owner Dean Santiago started the bodywork on our passenger-side door. He ran a line of masking tape down the center of the door to keep the plastic body filler from filling in the valley where the body moldings are normally. He then used 36-grit Summit Racing Quick-Change sanding discs (PN SUM-AB2QC36GZ; $19.95) to grind away the top layers of paint and provide a rough surface for the body filler to adhere.

3 The areas that needed attention...

3 The areas that needed attention on our door were just minor dents and dings. The places where the body filler was to be applied are visible, and so is the previous bodywork (the yellowish color near the lower front of the door).

4 Santiago then mixed Evercoat...

4 Santiago then mixed Evercoat Rage Xtreme body filler (PN FGE-120; $49.95) and blue hardener (PN SMM-39128; $1.95) on a pallet with a putty knife. When mixed completely, the blend becomes light green throughout.

5 Santiago then applied the...

5 Santiago then applied the filler slowly and smoothly, trying to minimize the amount of air bubbles within the filler as it is applied. He applied the filler out beyond the area that actually needed to be filled. This allows the filler to be blended into the door gradually to make the repair invisible after painting.

6 After the filler dried...

6 After the filler dried (usually within an hour), Santiago then sanded the filled areas with 80-grit sandpaper (PN SUM-AB514C3SRP8S; $9.95) on a sanding board.

7 He then used 180-grit sandpaper...

7 He then used 180-grit sandpaper (PN SUM-AB514C3SRP18; $14.95) on a Dura-Block-sanding block (PN ARD-TAI-AF44L; $59.95 for a set of seven).

8 To re-form the bodylines...

8 To re-form the bodylines that have been disturbed by dents and/or application of the body filler, Santiago used masking tape. He applied the tape to one side of the bodyline and sanded up to it with 180-grit.

9 He then applied a line...

9 He then applied a line of tape on the other side of the bodyline, leaving the actual bodyline exposed between the two.

10 He then removed the first...

10 He then removed the first piece and sanded up to the second piece.

11 After sanding the body...

11 After sanding the body filler, Santiago then mixed some Evercoat Metal Glaze Putty (PN FGE-100416; $29.95) using the same hardener and mixing method. The glaze is thinner than filler, and helps remove any imperfections that the filler missed or created.

12 He then applied the glaze...

12 He then applied the glaze using the same putty knife and method as he used with the filler.

13 This time, though, he...

13 This time, though, he started with the 180-grit paper and finished the whole door with 320-grit.

14 On the fender, he removed...

14 On the fender, he removed the adhesive leftover from the fender badges with an eraser wheel.

15 He then used an air hammer...

15 He then used an air hammer equipped with a flat scraper tip. This prevents damage to the moldings, since we're going to reuse them.

16 Santiago found a ding...

16 Santiago found a ding on the bodyline of the fender. It can be seen easily after he sanded it with 36-grit sandpaper. The areas that are still dark blue between the sanded areas are low, and need to be filled.

17 He used the plastic filler...

17 He used the plastic filler to cover the entire sanded area in the same manner as before.

18 Using the same methods...

18 Using the same methods as on the door, Santiago sanded the bodyline starting with 80-grit.

19 He then stepped to 180-grit...

19 He then stepped to 180-grit and finally 320-grit.

20 On the upper quarter-panel...

20 On the upper quarter-panel (sail panel), Santiago sanded the paint away to reveal the factory lead seam.

21 To hide the seam, he used...

21 To hide the seam, he used body filler. He then sanded using the same previous methods.

22 Under the hood, he finished...

22 Under the hood, he finished off the smoothing of the engine bay that we started a few months ago.

23 We also took this opportunity...

23 We also took this opportunity to roll the fender lips on the rear. Since we're going to repaint anyway, we didn't bother heating with the heat gun--we simply rolled the lips with Eastwood's fender lip roller (PN 31158; $269.99).

24 Once all the panels were...

24 Once all the panels were done, Santiago began to prepare for primer. He used 3M Scotch-Brite sanding pads (PN TRM-7447; $20.95) to prep the entire panels for primer.

25 He also used masking tape...

25 He also used masking tape and masking paper to mask off areas that weren't to be primed.

26 He then wiped the surfaces...

26 He then wiped the surfaces with Summit Racing's surface cleaner (PN SUM-SWSS100Q; $17.95), and followed immediately with a dry cloth.

27 Here are our panels ready...

27 Here are our panels ready for primer.

28 In the mixing room, Santiago...

28 In the mixing room, Santiago mixed Summit Racing Epoxy Primer (PN SUM-UP232; $19.95) with the primer catalyst (PN SUM-UP233; $16.95).

29 He then sprayed the primer...

29 He then sprayed the primer on with a primer gun. If you're doing this at home, make sure you are using the proper safety equipment. Also be sure to use a moisture removal system so that you don't get moisture or any other contaminants in the paint.

30 Here's part of our engine...

30 Here's part of our engine bay completed.

31 Santiago did a spray-out...

31 Santiago did a spray-out using the basecoat and clearcoat that we will be using next month. We like the color and can't wait to spray it.
32 We also unwrapped our carbon fiber hood from Motor City Solutions. Next month, we'll install the fenders, front bumper cover from NPD, and fit the hood as well. Then we'll spray some color!