Before hitting the track,...
Before hitting the track, Project Repeat Offender gets some much-needed suspension and brake upgrades.
We all know that having copious amounts of power is extremely important, but having power means nothing if you can't get it to the racing surface. Of equal importance is getting the car stopped at the end of the track (or slowed before that harrowing turn). With that in mind, we set our sights on upgrading the front suspension and braking capabilities of Repeat Offender, our True Street project car.
If you've been following the early phases of our True Streeter, you may have been expecting more on the building and testing of the powerplant. Unfortunately, sometimes you hit some speed bumps when building a project car. While we iron out the details with our 427ci bullet (we're waiting for parts, just like many of you), we are shifting our attention to suspension and braking.
With our e.t. goal in the 9-second zone, getting the power to the ground is critical. Being that we will compete in True Street, the car has to be reliable and produce repeatable results. To accomplish this, we turned to some of the best suspension companies in the business-Steeda Autosports and Strange Engineering.
Steeda Drag Race front springs...
Steeda Drag Race front springs now support the nose weight of our '85 LX. Steeda utilizes a tall spring with lower spring rates to increase the stored energy of the spring. This assists with lifting the front end and weight transfer for improved traction during launch.
For the time being, our front suspension will consist of a few basic yet effective upgrades. The stock springs and struts will give way to Steeda Drag Race springs and 10-way single-adjustable struts from Strange Engineering. The stock K-member will remain in place for now.
Steeda's Drag Racing front springs (PN 555-8230) have longer-than-stock coils that store more energy for quicker extension compared to the stock coils, when the car is launched. This allows for faster weight transfer to the rear tires, which increases traction. The spring rates are tuned for improved traction at the track, while maintaining good ride quality on the street. The front springs are progressive springs with rates varying from 343 to 463 lb/in. The stock springs are a specific-rate spring, checking in at 370 lb/in.
Strange Engineering's '87-'93 V-8 Mustang front struts (PN S6001EM) are adjustable units with 10 rebound settings, giving you a wide range of adjustments, which is perfect for the street and strip. Being that Repeat Offender is an '85 LX, the stock spindles are not compatible with the Strange struts. The '87-'93 V-8 spindle strut mount is thinner than the variants on the four-cylinder and earlier V-8 Foxes. The Strange struts are designed to only work with the thinner '87-'93 V-8 spindles. Strange Engineering doesn't advocate the use of spacers with its struts, so we needed to swap to the newer-style spindles. MPS Auto Salvage sent a set of '87-'93 spindles, which made the installation a breeze.
Lastly, we ditched the stock front brakes in favor of a setup from Aerospace Components, and we converted to manual brakes. The Pro Street 2 Piston Floating Kit (PN AC-320VRDSP) will replace the stock binders. The power-to-manual-brake conversion is fairly simple and can be done in your driveway or garage. So follow along as we upgrade the suspension and stopping power of Repeat Offender.
Strange Engineering sent us...
Strange Engineering sent us a set of its 10-way, single-adjustable struts for the '87-'93 V-8 Mustang. These struts work great on the street and strip.
We ditched the factory power...
We ditched the factory power brake system in favor of a manual kit from Aerospace Components. The kit includes everything you need to convert your power brakes to manual brakes. This will reduce weight for better track times and free up underhood space.
Aerospace Components also...
Aerospace Components also supplied one of its two-piston floating-caliper brake kits for our Fox-body Mustang. The kit includes all of the brackets and hardware for a simple installation.
Editors Note: Installation of Aerospace Components' manual brake system will require bending new brake lines to accommodate the new master cylinder. We recommend having a qualified performance shop install your brakes and lines if you are a novice mechanic.
Aerospace Components' manual brake kit is not compatible with the stock brake-light switch. The addition of Hurst's roll control and a brake pressure switch is an easy way to ensure your brake light operates properly.
Aerospace Components offers...
Aerospace Components offers its calipers in a myriad of available colors, and the billet aluminum calipers can be anodized to complement most exteriors.
The stock front suspension...
The stock front suspension and brakes are in need of some serious attention. The first step in our swap was removing the stock components.
The stock '85 spindles won't...
The stock '85 spindles won't work with the Strange Engineering adjustable struts. The strut mount on the early-model Fox spindle is thicker than the '87-'93 strut mount. To solve this problem, MPS Auto Salvage sent us a set of '87-'93 spindles, which will bolt right up.
The Steeda Drag Race springs...
The Steeda Drag Race springs and Strange Engineering struts went right in. With the suspension reassembled, it was time to focus on the brakes.
The stock spindles had to...
The stock spindles had to be modified slightly for the new Aerospace brakes. The mounts for the stock brake calipers need to be cut off so the new caliper mounting bracket sits flush against the spindle. Aerospace Components recommends removing as little as possible when cutting off the stock mounting ears.
Next, the original dustshield...
Next, the original dustshield holes need to be drilled and tapped. These holes are where the new caliper mounting plate will bolt to the spindle. Use a 5/16-inch drill bit to open the holes, and be sure to drill as centered as possible.
Next, use a 3/8-16 tap to...
Next, use a 3/8-16 tap to thread the new larger holes.
The new caliper-mounting bracket...
The new caliper-mounting bracket simply bolts to the modified spindle. The bracket should be oriented so the brake caliper will bolt on opposite to the steering arm.
Before installing the hub...
Before installing the hub assembly, the bearings must be installed dry for test fitting. Install the bearing and bolt the rotor surface to the hub.
Before installing the hub...
Before installing the hub and rotor, we weighed the new brake system to compare it to the old system. The factory brakes weigh in at a hefty 26.6 pounds per side; the new Aerospace Components brakes tip the scales at 18.1 pounds, for a reduction of 8.5 pounds per side.
Install the hub assembly and...
Install the hub assembly and check for clearance between the rotor surface and caliper-mounting bracket. The rotor-to-bracket spacing needs to be 0.050- to 0.080-inch. This can be attained by using shim washers between the spindle and bracket.
Once the clearances are set,...
Once the clearances are set, remove and disassemble the hub assembly. With the wheel bearing packed with grease, lube the seal lip and place the inner bearing in the hub. With the inner bearing in place, install the grease seal with the spring side facing the hub. Next, install the wheel studs and mount the hub assembly on the spindle; tighten until the bearings are fully seated. Slight resistance will be felt when spinning the hub. Install the cotter pin and tighten the nose cap.
The calipers are bolted on...
The calipers are bolted on next. Make sure the bleeder screw is above the intake port on the caliper, and tighten the bolts to 35 lb-ft.
The brake pads drop into the...
The brake pads drop into the calipers from the top. With the brake pads in place, reinstall the retaining bolt and secure it with the locking nut. Make sure the rotor spins freely and only the brake pads contact the rotor.
Next, the brake lines attach...
Next, the brake lines attach to the calipers.
With the new brake assembly...
With the new brake assembly installed, we mocked up our new wheels from Weld Racing. Check with Aerospace Components about wheel fitment prior to installing your brake kit.
Once the brakes were installed...
Once the brakes were installed on our coupe, we shifted our attention to the rest of the braking system. The first thing to go was the master cylinder. With the stock brake lines removed, the master unbolts and comes right out.
The power booster comes out...
The power booster comes out next. It simply unbolts from the inside of the firewall.
Remove the pin that connects...
Remove the pin that connects the master cylinder pushrod to the brake pedal.
With everything disconnected,...
With everything disconnected, the power booster comes right out.
As part of the manual brake...
As part of the manual brake conversion, the pedal ratio may need to be changed. With the master cylinder removed, measure 2 inches down from the top pivot point on the brake pedal arm and drill a 7/16-inch hole. This will give you the correct 7:1 ratio.
Install the new master cylinder...
Install the new master cylinder and attach the master cylinder pushrod to the new hole in the brake pedal.
With the master cylinder in...
With the master cylinder in place, adjust the master-cylinder pushrod. The gap between the brake pedal and positive stop should be between 1/16 and 1/32 inch. This ensures there is no preload on the brakes and no wasted stroke when applying pedal pressure.