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 The brake pads drop into the...  The brake pads drop into the calipers from the top. With the brake pads in place, reinstall the retaining bolt and secure it with the locking nut. Make sure the rotor spins freely and only the brake pads contact the rotor.  Next, the brake lines attach...  Next, the brake lines attach to the calipers.  With the new brake assembly...  With the new brake assembly installed, we mocked up our new wheels from Weld Racing. Check with Aerospace Components about wheel fitment prior to installing your brake kit.  Once the brakes were installed...  Once the brakes were installed on our coupe, we shifted our attention to the rest of the braking system. The first thing to go was the master cylinder. With the stock brake lines removed, the master unbolts and comes right out.  The power booster comes out...  The power booster comes out next. It simply unbolts from the inside of the firewall.  Remove the pin that connects...  Remove the pin that connects the master cylinder pushrod to the brake pedal.  With everything disconnected,...  With everything disconnected, the power booster comes right out.  As part of the manual brake...  As part of the manual brake conversion, the pedal ratio may need to be changed. With the master cylinder removed, measure 2 inches down from the top pivot point on the brake pedal arm and drill a 7/16-inch hole. This will give you the correct 7:1 ratio.  Install the new master cylinder...  Install the new master cylinder and attach the master cylinder pushrod to the new hole in the brake pedal.  With the master cylinder in...  With the master cylinder in place, adjust the master-cylinder pushrod. The gap between the brake pedal and positive stop should be between 1/16 and 1/32 inch. This ensures there is no preload on the brakes and no wasted stroke when applying pedal pressure.
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