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1993 Ford Mustang Cobra Project Stolen Goods - Doctor, We Have A PulseProject Stolen Goods Is Alive And Breathing Again. From the October, 2007 issue of Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords By Steve Baur Photography by Steve Baur
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We've put in some late nights... We've put in some late nights working on Stolen Goods, but the results are well worth it. Boy, we're getting tired of the local auto parts stores. It seems like we've been going there every other day to pick up this or that, and throughout this story we'll let you in on what some of these expeditions entailed. We may have even forgotten a few, as there were lots of trips prior to this installment of the project. More importantly, though, the end is now in sight and the sound of the crackling exhaust was well worth it. That's right, Stolen Goods is up and running. As we mentioned last month, we had to leap a few hurdles, but we made it past each one, and our project Mustang has been revived. Brothers Performance supplied... Brothers Performance supplied Project SG with all of its fuel-supply needs, from the 38-pound Lucas injectors to the BBK adjustable fuel-pressure regulator and the 255-lph in-tank fuel pump, the installation of which we have yet to do. In last month's installment, several things occurred that somewhat delayed our progress. Our first issue was a problem with the fabulous-looking Meziere billet starter pressing against the flywheel and subsequently freezing the engine from turning. While researching part numbers on the Centerforce Web site, we realized we had installed the wrong flywheel. Our combination required a 28-ounce weight unit, but we installed a 50-ounce, which would be fine for a stock-stroke, later 302. More importantly, we noticed we were using a 157-tooth flywheel. The Meziere starter works only with 164-tooth wheels. We were sad to see the starter head back to California, as it is truly a work of art and no doubt a stout piece of hardware. So the transmission came back out, the new flywheel went in along with Centerforce's Light Metal Clutch assembly, and the Astro Performance-built T5 was reinstalled. To remedy the starter issue, we called up MPS Auto Salvage in Winder, Georgia. In addition to supplying us with a number of factory fasteners for the engine/transmission assembly, the MPS guys hooked us up with a number of items we were missing, including a serpentine belt tensioner, a clutch cable bellhousing clip, a T5 reverse light harness, a starter motor, and a harness. Usually, the plastic gas-tank... Usually, the plastic gas-tank covers on Fox Mustangs are roughed up. Ours was still pristine, so we took extra care when removing the tank. We accomplished this by unbolting the fuel filler neck strap behind the quarter-panel, supporting the tank with a floor jack, and removing the two strap bolts. Once it's significantly lowered, unplug the wiring harnesses and disconnect the fuel lines. The '93 Mustang-or at least our Cobra-came from the factory with a mini starter, which we didn't realize until the MPS box showed up with the same harness that was on the car. The problem was, our wire-hiding efforts rendered the harness too short, so a new one was created. We have to say, though, that with a buildup like this, MPS Auto Salvage was an invaluable resource as we would've spent countless hours at the local home center trying to get things to bolt up, or in cases like the clutch cable clip and reverse light harness, fabricating something from scratch. The second issue that we left off with last month was an interference with the throttle cable bracket hitting the valve cover. We tried a different throttle body spacer, but it moved the bracket from hitting the valve cover to hitting the heater pipe on the intake manifold. We ended up cutting off a portion of the bottom of the bracket; welding up a gusset, and bolting it back in place with the normal-sized throttle body spacer. Problem solved. When planning Project Stolen Goods, we tried to keep things as simple as possible, but there were always issues-minor ones for sure, but when deadlines are looming, they look awfully big. Thankfully, Editor Smith has been understanding about the situation, and you guys haven't sent us hate mail. We also want to thank Stolen Goods' previous owner, George Xenos, who has toiled with us in the garage trying to get the Cobra back on the road. We've spent some long days and late nights-one while tackling the wiring issue. Prior to selling the car, Xenos started to hide the major wiring harnesses inside the fenders, and we had planned to finish that task. Several trips to the parts store later for wiring, connectors, and a plastic loom, and we finished everything but the O2 sensor harness. That didn't stop us from firing this bad boy up, however, and we were extremely pleased with the engine's response and sound. We did hear some valvetrain noise from the passenger-side valve cover and had to grind down the baffle bosses for rocker-arm clearance, but other than that, everything looked and sounded perfect. We've even put up a short video of Stolen Goods on our Web site, www.musclemustangfastfords.com, for you to enjoy. The one thing we haven't done yet is fill the brake fluid and bleed the brakes, as we discovered we have the wrong fittings for the rear brake lines. Obviously, we haven't track-tested the car yet or even put it on the dyno, but we promise to have all that and more for you next month as we take to the road in Stolen Goods.  To remove the pump from the...  To remove the pump from the tall side of the tank, tap the ring that holds it in counter-clockwise until the lugs line up and the ring pops off. Slowly pull out the pump while turning it and working it out. In order to swap the new pump for the old one, remove the fuel line and wiring; then loosen the cage and pull out the pump.  The BBK pump comes with everything...  The BBK pump comes with everything you need for the installation. Some factory pumps, including ours, require you to cut the terminal ends off the wires and use the supplied connectors to reattach them. Install the pump back in the tank, being careful not to cut the new fuel sock on the edge of the tank.  Last month, we told you about...  Last month, we told you about our throttle cable bracket interference with the valve cover. We called up Accufab and ordered this thin throttle-body spacer, which allowed the bracket to clear the valve cover, but it now interfered with the intake heater tube on the lower manifold. If you're not using the heater tube or the EGR, this is the bracket for you.  Our only solution was to modify...  Our only solution was to modify the existing throttle cable bracket. We cut about 5/16-inch off the bottom of the bracket, which gave us enough room to still mount the cable in the factory slot. We then welded on a new bottom support plate and drilled a new hole for the throttle cable support screw. After applying semigloss black paint, the bracket looks like it came that way. We have about an 1/8-inch clearance between the valve cover and the bracket.  For those wanting to use an...  For those wanting to use an external oiling system, the hole for the oil-sending unit is 1/2-inch national pipe thread. For Stolen Goods, we needed only to modify the stock setup with this brass fitting from our local home center (parts run number two).  We were a bit concerned with...  We were a bit concerned with our pulley alignment, given that the smog pump delete pulley, water pump idler, crank pulley, and power steering pulley were all aftermarket pieces. After running the car for about 30 minutes, everything seemed to be lined up correctly.  Last month, we installed a...  Last month, we installed a standard 5.0L serpentine belt, but it was a tad too long. The factory Cobra belt (pictured) fit well enough to charge the electrical system and not suffer belt slip, but we had to stretch it on, so we'll head to the parts store and bring back a couple of belts that are a bit shorter so that the tensioner is in its sweet spot.  We chose to use DynoMax/Cyclone...  We chose to use DynoMax/Cyclone products for the exhaust. While the 1-5/8-inch, ceramic-coated Cyclone long-tube headers came with gaskets, the Fel-Pro gaskets (in blue) that we received in our kit seemed to better fit the large ports of the Twisted Wedge heads.  The long-tube headers are...  The long-tube headers are only available with an H-pipe (we may fabricate an x-style setup purely for the sound), and it uses a traditional three-bolt flange to secure it to the collectors.  While the headers in general...  While the headers in general fit great with the aftermarket oil pan, the O2 sensor location would not work, so we moved them back into the beginning of the H-pipe using some O2 fittings that DynoMax sent us. Mark Johnson, who handled the welding on the subframe connectors, was brought in to melt the fittings into place with this handy Lincoln Electric MIG welder that we brought home from our tech center.  From the H-pipe rearward,...  From the H-pipe rearward, the 2-1/2-inch exhaust consists of DynoMax's Ultra Flo welded mufflers and brushed stainless steel tips. The tailpipes kept wanting to press up against the rear bumper cover, and we thought we might have to modify the existing hangers. We realized, however, that the mufflers needed to be pushed up into the chassis as far as they would go while leaving at least 1/2 inch of space. This angled the tailpipes to where they needed to be. Note that the Ford Racing Performance Parts aluminum driveshaft from Texas Mustang Parts has been installed as well.  We'd like to tell you that...  We'd like to tell you that none of the 1,331-mile Cobra sheetmetal was harmed in this production, but we'd be lying. We did procure some proper tools to get the job done nicely, though. Johnson provided us with the air-powered nibbler (top) and die grinder (bottom). The nibbler makes a clean cut, but the inner fender apron that we needed to open up for the Anderson Ford Motorsport Power Pipe was a confined area, and the nibbler needs enough room to swing the back or bottom of the tool around. To get the areas that we couldn't reach and for a general touch-up, we used the die grinder.  Close your eyes if you're...  Close your eyes if you're squeamish. The factory hole in the passenger fender apron was opened up about an inch to accommodate the Power Pipe. The die grinder trimmed and opened it up where the nibbler couldn't reach.  With the hole cleaned and...  With the hole cleaned and deburred, we used a 1/4-inch vacuum hose to trim the opening.  The Power Pipe slides in and...  The Power Pipe slides in and is secured to the throttle body and mass airflow meter via supplied rubber couplings.  There are quite a few choices...  There are quite a few choices in the mass air meter market. We consulted Anderson Ford Motorsport's Rick Anderson about which one to use, given our engine combination and 38-lb/hr injectors. He recommended the Velocity meter from Professional Mass Air Systems. It's a state-of-the-art, 4-inch-diameter piece with a bell-shaped inlet to reduce signal noise and improve airflow, along with a new-style sampling element. It also offers more repeatable calibrations within OEM specifications. The Velocity meter retails for $403.  The Velocity meter fit nicely...  The Velocity meter fit nicely into the inner fender area. We just need to come up with a cover for the factory airbox hole to prevent the hot engine bay air from getting ingested.  Since SG's previous owner,...  Since SG's previous owner, George Xenos, had started hiding the wiring harnesses in the fenders, we had to finish the job-well, we called him and he finished it for us. Xenos' modifications are usually OEM-quality, so he was definitely the guy for the job. Here, he's bending the new starter cable to reach the solenoid, which has been repositioned up inside the fender. Wiring of various gauges and colors was found at a couple of places (parts runs three and four).  The ignition solenoid (arrow)...  The ignition solenoid (arrow) was mounted high to keep it clear of any possible water and to allow room for the inner fenderwell. The mass of wiring coming through the apron includes the positive battery lead, and the wiring for the Flex-a-lite electric fan and the Meziere electric water pump.  The driver-side harness was...  The driver-side harness was fed into the fender before the shock tower and secured along the frame. Note how Xenos moved the factory alarm siren inboard as well. Don't worry; it's still plenty loud.  To keep track of what wiring...  To keep track of what wiring still needed to be done, Xenos scribbled out a wiring schematic on our poor-man's creeper.  The Meziere electric water...  The Meziere electric water pump was wired into a 30-amp relay (parts run number five) to provide it with a constant source of power without taxing the battery.  We haven't had a chance to...  We haven't had a chance to wire the fan to the A/C system, but it's otherwise up and running. After inserting the temperature-sending unit into the cooling fins near the inlet side of the radiator, we mounted the fan controller nearby, using one of the fan mounting bolts to secure it out of the way. This was one of the benefits of using the new Flex-a-lite radiator, as conventional designs do not have the mounting provisions that this one does.  The radiator's lower support...  The radiator's lower support bracket provided the perfect channel to hide the water pump and fan harnesses while directing them to the driver-side fender. Covering them with plastic wire loom (parts run number six) made for a clean, factory-like installation.  Stolen Goods inner fenderwell...  Stolen Goods inner fenderwell covers have been on the shelf for some time. Several fasteners later and the front end was buttoned up.  Prior to startup, we filled...  Prior to startup, we filled the crankcase with D.S.S. Racing's Xtreme oil additive, which is to supplement today's oils that have had significant amounts of zinc removed from their formulas. Six-and-a-half more quarts of Castrol 10W30 and it was time to prime the oiling system using the 5/16-inch primer we picked up from the local auto parts shack (parts run number seven) for $25.  We turned the key and nothing...  We turned the key and nothing happened-that is, until we realized the ignition solenoid wasn't properly grounded. With that fixed, the Cobra came alive on the first crank and idled perfectly; the exhaust crackled, and life was good. It would be better if our magazine had live video inside it, but until the tech guys figure that one out, you'll have to go to click here to check out the video.
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