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Ford Racing Peformance Parts Boss 302 Engine Install - Tedious TribulationsInstalling The Engine In Project Stolen Goods Is Slow Going When You Start From Scratch. From the September, 2007 issue of Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords By Steve Baur Photography by George Xenos, Steve Baur
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We had hoped to have our '93 Cobra project car, Stolen Goods, up and running in this month's installment, but we've come to the conclusion that no matter how long and precise your parts list is, you can still come up short when it comes time to actually put things together. At the beginning of this project, we started a list to keep track of items needed for the build. We modified it as we went along, marking things off and adding things that we left out. The list is now over two pages long, yet we still find ourselves scrounging for parts we hadn't thought of. These parts consist mostly of bolts and other fasteners, but these are the things that hold the car together so they're fairly important. Some of them, like the harmonic balancer bolt, are nearly impossible to find at the local auto parts or hardware store, and we found ourselves waiting on bolts to come in the mail. This can easily push back a job two or three days unless you overnight everything-and let's face it, there's only one Donald Trump. We left off last month waiting... We left off last month waiting for the new Comp Cams pushrods for which we had measured using Comp's adjustable measurement tool. With the pushrods in hand, we went about installing them and the 1.6:1 Magnum roller rockers. This sort of thing kills deadlines and delays progress, but we didn't get discouraged. Assembling a project like this is no easy task, so you should expect issues to pop up, unless you have a complete donor car sitting right next to your main vehicle. Even then, there's the possibility of rusted or broken parts as you remove them. We were thankful that Stolen Goods' previous owner, George Xenos, was on hand to help us with the assembly and for his knowledge of the car and Mustangs in general. While we had sourced a lot of fasteners from MPS Auto Salvage in Winder, Georgia, there were things that we just didn't think of. Luckily, Xenos' garage full of spare parts provided us with numerous items. Beyond the missing bolts, we were able to finally install Centerforce's Light Metal Clutch setup, which is a low-inertia clutch assembly designed to reduce rotating mass while offering plenty of grip to get the power to the pavement. The LMC piece was designed with road and circle track racing in mind and is SFI-approved for competition. Of course, it uses Centerforce's patented ball bearing-actuated diaphragm to keep a strong grip without too much pedal effort. These are stud-mount pieces,... These are stud-mount pieces, so make sure you have the round side of the trunnion facing down towards the cylinder head. In order to lighten up the pressure plate, Centerforce machines it out of billet aluminum and attaches it to a heat-treated, replaceable friction surface. The clutch disc uses a dual-segmented composite lining for better cooling and more torque capacity. We also ponied up for one of Centerforce's SFI-approved, low-inertia aluminum flywheels. These pieces feature a mechanically retained starter ring gear, as well as replaceable steel friction surfaces that have been heat-treated for abrasion resistance and long life. They're designed using CAD/CAM software and are then cut using a CNC machine for a perfect fit. The LMC clutch assembly retails for around $800, while the flywheel goes for about $680. They're not the most inexpensive pieces, but nothing great ever is. Behind the LMC clutch assembly we mounted the Astro Performance A-5 five-speed manual transmission that we showed you in the May '07 issue. We also installed Flex-a-lite's new Black Magic Extreme radiator and fan combination. The Extreme is a drop-in unit from Flex-a-lite that retails for $749 (Summit Racing), and comes with just about everything you need for a clean installation. We popped for Flex-a-lite's optional aluminum coolant overflow reservoir, and the whole assembly fits like a glove. In fact, the included radiator and its support brackets look far and away better than the factory pieces. Flex-a-lite started with a two-row aluminum radiator and utilized unique, grooved end tanks for better cooling and easier mounting. The grooves are used to mount the electric fan, which is much better than running the plastic ties through the fins. We also used the grooves to mount the aluminum coolant overflow tank as well. The company includes a temperature-control module and all the wiring you may need to hook up the unit. After we installed the engine/transmission combination, there was a definite sense of accomplishment and of things finally coming together for this snake, which hasn't seen public roads in about eight years. The front end was no longer high in the sky, and the car looked as though we could hop in and take it for a spin. But things don't always work that way, and Stolen Goods is no exception. We ran into several issues that prevented us from firing up the Boss 347, and we will outline each solution in the next installment. Some of these problems were related to missing, broken, or incorrect parts, but we'll have our Cobra sorted out and track tested-or editor Smith will have our heads. See you next month.  The intake gasket did not...  The intake gasket did not extend all the way up to the top of the deck, so we filled the gap with the silicone. We used Fel-Pro gaskets throughout the engine.  Before installing the engine,...  Before installing the engine, we wanted to mock up the new Flex-a-lite radiator/electric fan setup that Stolen Goods will be using. This Black Magic Extreme assembly (PN 52185) features a two-core aluminum radiator, an electric fan capable of 3,300 cfm, and a thermostatic control module that allows us to set the fan to turn on anywhere from 160 to 240 degrees Fahrenheit. We like how the fan shroud covers the entire radiator for maximum efficiency.  The bottom bracket for the...  The bottom bracket for the radiator bolted up nicely with the supplied hardware.  Mustangs Unlimited provided...  Mustangs Unlimited provided us with a bunch of small but pertinent items, including these Energy Suspension urethane motor mounts. Just a couple of bolts and we're good to go.  We're not sure the Extreme...  We're not sure the Extreme radiator/fan combo will work with a supercharger, as clearance between the fan and the crank pulley on our car was tight. We removed the factory bottom supports to move the assembly back as far as we could and still have only about 3/8 inch clearance. It's a good thing we went naturally aspirated.  We started prepping the engine...  We started prepping the engine for installation by connecting the injector wiring harness.  The injector harness also...  The injector harness also provides connections to various sensors, including the coolant temperature sensor, the air-charge temperature sensor, and this little guy, the temperature sending unit. The average cheap parts store may have a hard time locating this one in its computer. Our local guy found it listed under sensors, switches, and sending units.  The Meziere Enterprises electric...  The Meziere Enterprises electric water pump (PN WP312) was shipped with the heater hoses connections blocked off. We installed these provided fittings so we can turn up the heat if necessary. Meziere uses O-rings to seal everything.  Mustangs Unlimited provided...  Mustangs Unlimited provided this Ford Racing Performance Parts harmonic balancer (PN M-6316-C351), which retails for about $260. We used ARP's balancer fastener (PN 150-2501) to secure it. We needed the optional crank pulley spacer (PN M-8510-C351; $29) to bring the pulley into alignment.  Using the Meziere water pump...  Using the Meziere water pump with the factory air conditioning setup required modification of the factory A/C bracket. Despite the impressive 30x40 garage facility we've been lucky enough to work in, tools are minimal, so a hacksaw, rasp, and some elbow grease were needed to work the bracket into shape. Stolen Goods' previous owner, George Xenos, was kind enough to powdercoat the bracket along with a few of the other factory brackets for the price of a 12-pack.  We had this UPR smog pump-delete...  We had this UPR smog pump-delete pulley in the office and decided it looked pretty good on our new engine. While we had picked up some of the factory water pump bolts to move the A/C bracket outward, we forgot that the smog pump bracket needed to be spaced out as well (arrow).  Here you can see how the smog...  Here you can see how the smog pump bracket needed to be spaced out. We drilled some washers to the size of the bolt to get the job done.  We mounted the crank pulley...  We mounted the crank pulley spacer and crank pulley to the engine. There isn't much room to get anything but an Allen wrench in there to tighten the bolts, so we used the box end of a wrench to get enough leverage to tighten it properly.  Our boy Xenos did a great...  Our boy Xenos did a great job with the powdercoating. March Performance provided us with a sparkling array of billet pulleys and beauty covers that not only look fantastic, but they save a bit of weight thanks to their aluminum construction.  The idler pulley on our billet...  The idler pulley on our billet Meziere water pump is slightly smaller in diameter than the March pulley. It's specially designed for the water pump, so we'll have to try out a few shorter serpentine belts to make sure the tensioner puts the proper amount of stress on the belt.  Here we have the entire serpentine...  Here we have the entire serpentine belt setup installed. The tensioner should actually be pointing a good deal to the right, rather than down, so we'll need to shorten the belt length.  Stolen Goods' proposed goal...  Stolen Goods' proposed goal of 400-425 crank horsepower doesn't necessarily require a ton of clamping force, but aggressive track use will require a stout piece. We opted for Centerforce's Light Metal Clutch assembly (PN LM161057) along with its aluminum flywheel. The LMC and flywheel together can reduce assembly weight by 5-10 pounds and should allow our Boss 347 to rev much faster than if it was equipped with a steel flywheel and standard pressure plate.  After applying thread locker...  After applying thread locker to the flywheel bolts, we installed the flywheel, then cleaned it with some brake cleaner to remove the shipping coating that keeps the steel insert from rusting. We then installed the clutch disc using the supplied tool.  When installing the pressure...  When installing the pressure plate, clean the contact surface with brake cleaner. Make sure you line up the reference marks before sliding it onto the dowel pins.  We ditched the stock bolts...  We ditched the stock bolts (of which we could locate only four of the six) and used these Centerforce fasteners (left).  With the clutch buttoned up,...  With the clutch buttoned up, we installed the bellhousing. Nothing special here, just a factory 5.0L unit. Our previous request to MPS Auto Salvage netted us the proper fasteners.  To crank up the Boss engine's...  To crank up the Boss engine's inner workings, Meziere sent us this wildly trick billet starter (PN TS408). It retails for $510 and features a proprietary drive design, not to mention a stout 2.2kw motor for faster, more reliable starting.  The billet mounting flange...  The billet mounting flange on the starter allows you to clock the starter for header clearance or any other fitment issue.  You can just about build an...  You can just about build an entire Mustang using Mustangs Unlimited. The company supplied Stolen Goods with numerous components, including O2 sensors, O2 sensor extensions, motor and transmission mounts, as well as an idle air-control valve and air-charge temp sensor.  With the clutch and bellhousing...  With the clutch and bellhousing installed, we hoisted up SG's new Astro Performance A-5 gearbox and gently joined it with the powerplant. MPS Auto Salvage hooked us up with the factory fasteners. The urethane transmission mount went on next-that is, until the factory exhaust hanger bracket surfaced.  Using the engine hoist, we...  Using the engine hoist, we dropped the transmission/ motor assembly into the engine bay. The engine-tilting mechanism couldn't tilt enough to let the D.S.S. Racing oil pan get past the radiator-core support without gouging the firewall with the tailshaft of the transmis-sion, so we jacked up the back end of the car, which gave us the needed clearance.  D.S.S. Racing's Tom Naegele...  D.S.S. Racing's Tom Naegele recommended that we install an adjustable clutch cable and quadrant to ensure accurate pressure-plate alignment and movement. We had our good friends at Ford Racing Performance Parts send us a few of their trick parts, including a double hook clutch quadrant (PN M-7583-A), a Topside adjuster (PN M7554-A), a clutch cable (PN M-7553-C302), and a roller pilot bearing (PN M-7600-A). If the clutch engagement is not properly set, you can burn up the clutch and possibly cause thrust bearing failure.  Now that the Boss 347 has...  Now that the Boss 347 has found its new place of employment, we reinstalled the Black Magic Extreme cooling system. The unit fits like factory and looks a heck of a lot better, not to mention it should keep the coiling beast cool, whether during on-track exploits or sitting in traffic.  We found an interference issue...  We found an interference issue with the factory throttle-cable bracket and the Cobra valve cover we were using. Here, you can see we tried a chrome plated, stock-style FRPP piece. We even went so far as to try a stock stamped-steel part, but that wouldn't clear the rockers. After some research, we may have solved the problem by using a thinner EGR delete spacer. The current piece that we sourced from Accufab is more than 2 inches thick, while the new one we just ordered is just 3/8 inch thick. This should move the bracket inward and out of range of the valve cover.  Though we're not quite ready...  Though we're not quite ready to fire up our D.S.S. bullet, the engine bay is shaping up as we hoped. Next month we plan to detail all of our fixes for the more finicky portions of the engine installation and bring you some real road testing of Project Stolen Goods.
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