1993 Ford SVT Cobra Rear Suspension And Rear Axle - Straightening the Slithering Part 2

Once you establish the proper location of the Panhard bar chassis mount, mark the holes of the mount, and then use a center punch to set a pilot for the 5/8-inch hole you'll need to drill through the outside of the framerail. Maximum recommends drilling with successively larger drill bits.

A screwdriver works well to measure the distance you need to cut the frame insert tubes to. They may all be different lengths as some cars have double the sheetmetal in the forward holes.

With the frame inserts held firmly in place, you can use a 3/8-inch drill bit to drill through the inner side of the framerails. Once that's complete, place the chassis mount and use some of the supplied hardware to hold it in place while you drill through the mount itself with the 3/8-inch drill bit. Then, remove the mount and debur all of the holes. At this time, you'll want to install the tailpipes, if you are using any. Maximum says that most DynoMax and Flowmaster kits, which follow the stock tube routing, will work, otherwise modifications to the pipes may be necessary. Install the Panhard bar chassis mount.

Since Stolen Goods is not mobile yet, we'll have to save adjustment of the Panhard bar for a later date. Be sure to drive the car to settle the suspension before installing the Panhard bar, and then follow the rest of Maximum Motorsports' detailed instructions.

Note the clearance of our DynoMax 2.5-inch tailpipes.

The MM Panhard bar is designed to work around the stock exhaust pipe routing, and at the present time we seem to be in good shape. We just need to get the motor in the car and the exhaust buttoned up. All in good time.