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1993 Ford SVT Cobra Front Suspension - Straightening the Slithering Snake...
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1993 Ford SVT Cobra Front Suspension - Straightening the Slithering Snake Part 1
We equipped project Stolen Goods with stock GT struts and spindles, along with a set of cut-down coil springs to get the car mobile. The coils actually fall out once tension is relieved. From there we removed the struts and tie-rod ends, followed by the spindles. If you're performing this on your own ride, secure the coil spring before disassembly so it doesn't come flying out at you.
The Road & Track Box includes new urethane lower control arm bushings. Removing the old rubber ones can be done a couple of different ways, including using a drill. We opted for the non-environmentally friendly route of burning them out with a torch. You need to remove only the sleeve and the rubber itself, leaving the shell inside the control arm.
Make sure you clean the shell prior to installing the new bushings, which you should liberally coat with the supplied grease. There are two different pairs of bushings, and every control arm gets one of each.
Next up are the Maximum Motorsports coil springs and urethane isolators. The isolators are designed to give you a quiet ride, but depending on your tool chest and length of prybar, you may need to do without one or both of them. We opted not to use the top tubes so we could more easily install the front coils. We've never experienced any NVH issues by doing this, but if we did, we could always install them at a later date.
Follow the caster/camber plate directions for the strut-spacer bushing orientation. Then install and secure the top of the strut. The Road & Track Box utilizes Bilstein struts and shocks. The Bilsteins are MM's favorite damper and are well paired to the Road & Track coil springs.
With the top of the strut installed, assemble the spindle and attach the lower strut bolts to it.
Another component of the Road & Track Box are the urethane sway bar end links and bushings. We've had our share of bent and even broken sway bar end links, a problem that Maximum Motorsports solves by using urethane bushings and Grade 8 bolts.
Like the end links, the urethane sway bar bushings tighten up the sway bar mounting points, allowing it to do what it needs to more efficiently. Unbolt the stock mount, remove the rubber bushing, and replace it with the urethane piece.
Even though we don't have an engine or drivetrain, we opted to mock up the included strut tower brace and drill the necessary mounting holes for it.
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