We went with Optima's Yellow...
We went with Optima's Yellow Top battery as we run a multitude of power accessories including an electric fan, an extra fuel pump, and an ignition box (not to mention the hot stereo we're installing). The Yellow Top is a deep-cycle battery that can handle numerous discharges and charges, while offering extended life over a normal battery design. The Performance Distributors 190-amp alternator will make sure the Optima offers a full supply of current, even under the most demanding of circumstances. The Yellow Top retails around $170.
Connections are extremely...
Connections are extremely important in a stereo system, and Crutchfield sent us a host of StreetWires products. Shown here are RCA cables for the low-output signal to the amplifiers, a 150-amp inline fuse link for the main power cable, a distribution block with terminal ends and fuses, and various other brass terminal ends.
All our wiring from Crutchfield...
All our wiring from Crutchfield is made by StreetWires. Included are four-gauge red (power) and black (ground) cable, and 14- and 16-gauge speaker wire. Crutchfield also included a wiring guide and one of its recent catalogs.
We begin the installation...
We begin the installation by removing the front and rear seats, along with the rocker panel covers. This allows us to conceal the wiring beneath the carpet and makes it easier to install the new components as well.
Music and Mustangs go hand in hand. Whether cruising to Jerry Lee Lewis in a classic convertible or jammin' to Metallica in the pits at the local strip, most Mustang enthusiasts have an affinity for good music.
The factory sound systems in our beloved ponycar have become better during the last decade or so, but there's always room for improvement. With help from Sony, Crutchfield, Optima, and Performance Distributors, we'll show you how easy it is to pump up the power of your car audio components at home.
We've broken down the installation into two parts so we can go into greater detail about installing and tuning your stereo. That's right-tuning. And you thought you only needed to adjust your air/fuel ratio.
The main reason we decided to do this story was because our project car's supercharged and stroked small-block makes quite a bit of music in its own right. And while we enjoy the wonderful notes played through its Bassani exhaust, we love our rock 'n' roll, too. Our '90 GT had been upgraded some years ago with an aftermarket CD player, but it doesn't always like to play our home-burned discs, and it definitely doesn't have the power to get the music up to an enjoyable level. Therefore, we sought more power while improving sound quality.
We looked to Sony mobile audio products and its Xplod line of stereo components. The Xplod line consists of high-quality pieces at affordable prices, and they're available at most retail stereo stores and department stores such as Best Buy, Circuit City, and so on.
Directing the audio signals is a Sony AM/FM CD receiver. The CDX-M8800 head unit retails for $349 and features Sony's Active Black Panel technology, which, when turned off, leaves the stereo face completely black for a nice, stealthy look. The CDX-M8800 is equipped with front, rear, and subwoofer preamplified outputs, CD/MD control, and BBE signal processing to sharpen the tunes.
We're using Sony's XS-V1640H ($99) door speakers that measure 6.5 inches across and feature a 131/416-inch mid woofer and a 71/416-inch dome tweeter. Replacing the factory 6x8-inch speakers located in the rear-seat area are XS-V6833 6x8 speakers ($99), which bolt right in the stock location. In the hatch area, we fabricated a subwoofer enclosure to house the XS-L121P5 ($109) 12-inch subwoofer. Sony sent us a 15-inch sub, but it proved too deep for the spare-tire well, which is where we intended to build the enclosure.
Powering all these components are the XM-2200GTX and XM-4060GTX amplifiers. The 2200 is a 1,200-watt piece that can be used in 200(watts)x2(speakers) or 500x1 configurations. So, whether you're using one or two subs, this amp has you covered on both accounts. The 4060 offers a maximum of 600 watts, which can be delivered in 60x4, or 60x2 and 150x1 configurations. Both amplifiers retail for approximately $199 each.
We contacted Crutchfield for all our wiring needs. We've used the company's parts for the occasional stereo receiver installation kit, and its customer service is amazing and can provide you with both the parts and the knowledge to hook up your automobile or home with full-blown, high-quality audio/video.
Our supercharged Mustang was already taxing its stock alternator and battery with its extra fuel pump and electric fan, so we called Performance Distributors for a 190-amp alternator with a one-wire hookup, and Optima Batteries for one of its Yellow Top units. The Yellow Top was preferred over Optima's more commonly seen Red Top because of its deep cycle nature. This deep cycle nature allows the Yellow Top to handle many discharges as well as recharges without losing significant capacity. This is great for the stereo enthusiast, as well as the automotive enthusiast who stores his or her car for the winter. The Yellow Top's low discharge rate means it can hold its charge for up to 12 months at room temperature or slightly below. Its lifespan is twice as long as conventional batteries, and its no-spill exterior means you can mount it in any position you like.
We had planned to perform this installation in the Mustang's home garage, but it has been resting at Crazy Horse Racing in South Amboy, New Jersey, awaiting its new custom rear axle assembly. The author performed the install at Crazy Horse, along with the help of proprietor Chris Winter. Having a helping hand when performing this type of install is a plus, but not necessary. Just make sure your plans are firm and that you have enough wire to get the job done.
In Part 1, we've handled the planning, wiring, and a portion of the installation. In Part 2, we'll wrap up the installation and talk about the tuning that is involved when using amplifiers with crossovers, and what can be accomplished by utilizing the signal proces-sing in Sony's CDX-M8800 head unit.
The factory speakers are next....
The factory speakers are next. This is one of the rear 6x8 speakers that is easily removed after taking out the four screws holding the cover on, and then removing the four screws that hold the speaker to the grill cover. Our '90 Mustang didn't come equipped with door speakers, so there weren't any to remove. We won't be using the factory 3.5-inch units in the dash, so they can stay.
Our Mustang already had an...
Our Mustang already had an aftermarket receiver, which made it a cinch to remove. It also provided us with the console panel that replaces the factory head unit. If you still have the factory receiver, you can insert a metal coat hanger into the release holes to pop out the unit. You can usually get the proper tool from your local stereo shop, though.
With our stock components...
With our stock components removed, we installed the 4ga power cable through the grommet on the passenger side of the engine compartment. This grommet also houses the main wiring harness, so use caution when making your pilot hole in the grommet for the new cable. We routed the power cable down in front of the A-pillar and then down beneath the passenger-side carpet along the rocker panel. Our Mustang is equipped with a ProCharger supercharger that relocates the battery to the passenger side.
We installed the new Optima...
We installed the new Optima Yellow Top battery and ran the power cable around the front. Then we unsheathed the cable and installed the brass terminal end to connect it to the battery. Our Optima came with both top and side mounts, which gave us a separate positive feed for the power cable.
Due to the size of the power...
Due to the size of the power cable, we chose to run it up and over the rear tire well. This also put it in a good spot where we could mount the inline fuse holder and distribution block.
With the fuse holder's location...
With the fuse holder's location established, we cut the power cable and installed the fuse end cap, rubber O-ring, and terminal.
The fuse is a monster 150-amp...
The fuse is a monster 150-amp unit and separates the battery current from the distribution block.
The other end of the fuse...
The other end of the fuse holder goes together in the same manner. Now we only have to cut the power cable's length to reach from the fuse holder to the distribution block.
The distribution block requires...
The distribution block requires running only one main power cable through the car. Then you can distribute the power to four separate destinations using smaller gauge cable. The same goes for the ground wiring.
The block uses these two-piece...
The block uses these two-piece aluminum terminal ends. Extend the wire over the top of the inner piece and then screw on the cap. The terminal fastens to the block using an Allen-head screw.
While running the power cable...
While running the power cable over the rear tire well, we saw a great opportunity to use the seatbelt mounting bolt as our ground. We first need to remove some of the paint for a good contact.
With the power and ground...
With the power and ground supplies completed, we turned our attention to the amplifier power and ground wires.
We needed to lay out our components...
We needed to lay out our components to know exactly where the power and ground wires were to be run and thus how long they'd have to be.
Here is the finished StreetWires...
Here is the finished StreetWires distribution block and its plastic cover. We used an 80-amp fuse to supply our 1,200-watt sub amp and a 60-amp fuse for the 600-watt unit.
It was time to run the output...
It was time to run the output wires for the front and rear speaker. We also installed the rear 6x8 units. The door speakers require a bit more work, as you must run the wires through the doors.
With our speaker wires, RCA...
With our speaker wires, RCA cables, and power and ground wires run, we can make the necessary openings to the plastic panels. We used a mini die grinder to cut through it, but some wire cutters will do.
You also have the option of...
You also have the option of having the wires come through where the panels meet. This will prevent you from having to cut the plastic, but it will also leave unsightly gaps. Our cuts will hardly be noticeable once the carpet is in.
We used cardboard to make...
We used cardboard to make a template of the hatch area and transferred it to the MDF particleboard that we scored from our local Home Depot. A 4x8 sheet cost a measly $20. Our estimate said we needed a piece at least 33 inches by 48 inches, so if you can get a smaller piece without buying the whole sheet, go for it. Remember, measure multiple times, cut once.
The subwoofer comes with a...
The subwoofer comes with a template. You may want to tape it to the MDF and then scribe the inner circle as well as the mounting screw holes. Our trusty jigsaw did the trick, but it will take some time, as the MDF is some fairly dense material. It's this dense property that makes it so great for use in sound systems as it better reflects the sound waves.
With our MDF panel cut to...
With our MDF panel cut to fit, it's time to insulate the spare tire area. We'll be using Dynamat sound deadener to cover this area. This will not only make the subwoofer more efficient, but it will also help quell road and chassis noise in that area.
Applying the Dynamat is a...
Applying the Dynamat is a peel-and-stick affair, although applying it to curved areas, such as the spare tire well, is a bit chal-lenging. A heat gun can be used to make it more pliable if needed. First, make sure the area to be covered is cleaned thoroughly. You'll find the completed installation as well as system tuning in Part 2 next month.