Sony Xplod Audio Installation - Project ProCharged - Music For Your Mustang Part: 1

The block uses these two-piece aluminum terminal ends. Extend the wire over the top of the inner piece and then screw on the cap. The terminal fastens to the block using an Allen-head screw.

While running the power cable over the rear tire well, we saw a great opportunity to use the seatbelt mounting bolt as our ground. We first need to remove some of the paint for a good contact.

With the power and ground supplies completed, we turned our attention to the amplifier power and ground wires.

We needed to lay out our components to know exactly where the power and ground wires were to be run and thus how long they'd have to be.

Here is the finished StreetWires distribution block and its plastic cover. We used an 80-amp fuse to supply our 1,200-watt sub amp and a 60-amp fuse for the 600-watt unit.

It was time to run the output wires for the front and rear speaker. We also installed the rear 6x8 units. The door speakers require a bit more work, as you must run the wires through the doors.

With our speaker wires, RCA cables, and power and ground wires run, we can make the necessary openings to the plastic panels. We used a mini die grinder to cut through it, but some wire cutters will do.

You also have the option of having the wires come through where the panels meet. This will prevent you from having to cut the plastic, but it will also leave unsightly gaps. Our cuts will hardly be noticeable once the carpet is in.

We used cardboard to make a template of the hatch area and transferred it to the MDF particleboard that we scored from our local Home Depot. A 4x8 sheet cost a measly $20. Our estimate said we needed a piece at least 33 inches by 48 inches, so if you can get a smaller piece without buying the whole sheet, go for it. Remember, measure multiple times, cut once.

The subwoofer comes with a template. You may want to tape it to the MDF and then scribe the inner circle as well as the mounting screw holes. Our trusty jigsaw did the trick, but it will take some time, as the MDF is some fairly dense material. It's this dense property that makes it so great for use in sound systems as it better reflects the sound waves.

With our MDF panel cut to fit, it's time to insulate the spare tire area. We'll be using Dynamat sound deadener to cover this area. This will not only make the subwoofer more efficient, but it will also help quell road and chassis noise in that area.

Applying the Dynamat is a peel-and-stick affair, although applying it to curved areas, such as the spare tire well, is a bit chal-lenging. A heat gun can be used to make it more pliable if needed. First, make sure the area to be covered is cleaned thoroughly. You'll find the completed installation as well as system tuning in Part 2 next month.