When you need to know exactly what is happening, look to a set of aftermarket gauges to provide you with the correct information.
Performance vehicles usually come with a decent gauge package that gives you slightly more information than the "Oh crap there's no oil!" idiot lights the majority of vehicles today are equipped with. When we begin modifying our engines, we generally tune towards efficiency, and sometimes put it on the fine line of just right and blown up. We also sometimes need to monitor functions and parameters that the factory instrumentation does not.
Auto Meter Competition Instruments of Sycamore, Illinois, has been one of the key players in the aftermarket gauge industry, and when we needed some boost and fuel pressure gauges for two of our project cars, we looked to them to provide us with accurate instrumentation. Installation of any of these gauges is fairly easy, which is why we are showing you how to install them as a quick tech feature. Once you have them aboard, you'll be ready to tune and tweak to your heart's content. Read along to see how easy it is.
The Lunar boost/vacuum gauge (PN 4103) for the MM&FF Ice Box project car retails for $95, and is a mechanical boost/vacuum gauge that measures 2 1/16-inches in diameter. We used one of Auto Meter's gauge pods (PN 10121) to mount it on the A-pillar. The pod, which sells for a mere $21, simply attaches to the A-pillar via supplied fasteners. | 
To begin, carefully remove the A-pillar molding. If using the gauge pod, you'll need to drill four 3/16-inch holes to mount the mod to the stock pillar, and one large hole to run the plastic airline. Auto Meter's gauge pillar replaces the old unit and you only need to transfer the holes for the mounting screws. The dash bezels of both cars will need to be removed in order to access the lighting switches. Mount the gauges in the pillar and run the wires to the bottom. | 
Make sure that none of the wires will be pinched when things go back together. We removed the speaker and grille to aid wire routing through the dash. Use a test light to probe the lighting switches to find a 12-volt source for the white wires. The red wires require a 12-volt source that maintains power during engine cranking. Connect the black wires to a good, solid ground. |
The electrical boost gauge uses a three-bar MAP sensor to get its readings. The sensor must be fastened according to the position in the instructions in order for it to work properly. We secured ours to this dash support right above the fuse box. If using the mechanical boost gauge, you just have to run the airline into the engine compartment and find a suitable source for manifold vacuum. Both gauges come with vacuum T-fittings and rubber couplings to accomplish this. | 
The electric fuel pressure gauge comes with its own sending unit. Our BBK adjustable fuel regulator already had an empty port for just such an occasion. Most billet-style regulators usually come with this but it you don't have one, you can always connect it to the Schrader valve on the fuel line. Once the wiring and sending units are hooked up properly, turn the key to verify that the instruments perform their auto-zero feature. This recalibrates the gauge every time you start the car. | 
Both C2 gauges sell for around $199 each. Part of the increased cost is due to the LED lighting. The other part is because of the advanced pressure transducers that the meters use. According to Auto Meter's Advertising and Media Relations Manager Ron Piasecki, "The pressure transducers produce a reading that is more accurate. The electrical gauges also allow you to mount the actual sensors in the engine compartment, so the installation is easier, and safer because you don't have to route fuel anywhere." |