The Pro-5.0 adjustable clutch...
The Pro-5.0 adjustable clutch cable and quadrant retails for $79.99 and fits '83-03 Mustangs.
These small protrusions on...
These small protrusions on the end will need to be removed. A razor blade makes quick work of them.
The clutch fork cover is easily...
The clutch fork cover is easily removed via its single retaining screw. A metal clip holds the top of it in the bellhousing.
Here the clutch fork has been...
Here the clutch fork has been exposed. A prybar or large screwdriver is needed to manipulate the fork forward enough to remove the cable.
If you have been following along with our ProCharged pony project car, you know we are making about 330 hp and 389 lb-ft of torque at the rear wheels. This equated to a best elapsed time of 12.87 at 112 mph. Our GT sped through the traps singing at 5,900 rpm in third gear thanks to the 2.73 rear-axle ratio.
We felt this was a pretty good elapsed time, considering it was 28 degrees outside and we were rolling on Nitto NT550 street tires. Careful application of the throttle was needed, otherwise we just went up in smoke. Our next track test featured far better traction, which revealed that the stock replacement clutch was slipping when shifting into high gear, so we are taking measures to remedy this problem.
The first of these measures is the installation of an adjustable clutch cable and aluminum quadrant. While there are quite a few of these on the market already, the Pro 5.0 unit is the latest incarnation of this simple, but effective device. While it really can't fix an ailing clutch, proper adjustment of the cable is essential to longer clutch life.
The Pro 5.0 piece uses a standard replacement cable in conjunction with an aluminum adjuster that mounts on the firewall in an easy-to-reach location. An aluminum quadrant is included and replaces the stock plastic pieces.
For this installation, you'll need 7-, 8- and 15mm sockets, and either a set of ramps or a jack and some jack stands. Some quadrants require the use of a spacer to keep them from moving around on the shaft. Rather than use metal washers (and spend money for them), we ingeniously cut part of the old quadrant to fill in the gap.
Other than that, the installation is a snap. For proper adjustment, the pedal should have little to no play in it, and you should be able to flex the cable down at the clutch fork about 1/2 inch. Once your adjustment is set, lock down the adjuster and you're done.
This screw attaches the cable...
This screw attaches the cable to the framerail down below the coil. You will reuse it to secure the new cable as it has the identical bracket to hold it there.
This is the elusive clutch...
This is the elusive clutch quadrant. It is comprised of two pieces, one large and one small. Remove the cable from the quadrant and pull it through the firewall. Then remove the retaining clip that holds the quadrant on. You may need to pry the quadrant from the shaft, as there is not a lot of room to work in. Should you break it, you'll be replacing the unit with a new piece anyway.
Here you can see the cable...
Here you can see the cable coming through the firewall. Through the hole, you can see the stock quadrant.
Once you have the stock quadrant...
Once you have the stock quadrant out, you'll most likely notice the grooves that the cable has put in it over the years. This does not make for a smooth clutch feel. We cut off a section of it to take up some space between the new quadrant and the retaining clip that holds it on the shaft.
Old versus new: You won't...
Old versus new: You won't need either of the springs, but save those and one of the retaining clips. The other clip will secure the new quadrant.
This is the new quadrant installed....
This is the new quadrant installed. You can also see the spacer to the left of it and the clip to the right.
The adjuster mounts toward...
The adjuster mounts toward the top of the firewall in the location of the stock cable. Make sure the locking ring has some play so you have room to move the adjuster before securing it.
Attach the new cable to the...
Attach the new cable to the clutch fork and then route it through the engine compartment and finally through the firewall. Adjust the cable at the firewall until there is little to no play in the clutch pedal, but allow the cable to flex back and forth about 1/2 inch at the clutch fork. Replace the inspection cover and you're done.