This screw attaches the cable to the framerail down below the coil. You will reuse it to secure the new cable as it has the identical bracket to hold it there. | 
This is the elusive clutch quadrant. It is comprised of two pieces, one large and one small. Remove the cable from the quadrant and pull it through the firewall. Then remove the retaining clip that holds the quadrant on. You may need to pry the quadrant from the shaft, as there is not a lot of room to work in. Should you break it, you'll be replacing the unit with a new piece anyway. | 
Here you can see the cable coming through the firewall. Through the hole, you can see the stock quadrant. |
Once you have the stock quadrant out, you'll most likely notice the grooves that the cable has put in it over the years. This does not make for a smooth clutch feel. We cut off a section of it to take up some space between the new quadrant and the retaining clip that holds it on the shaft. | 
Old versus new: You won't need either of the springs, but save those and one of the retaining clips. The other clip will secure the new quadrant. | 
This is the new quadrant installed. You can also see the spacer to the left of it and the clip to the right. |
The adjuster mounts toward the top of the firewall in the location of the stock cable. Make sure the locking ring has some play so you have room to move the adjuster before securing it. | 
Attach the new cable to the clutch fork and then route it through the engine compartment and finally through the firewall. Adjust the cable at the firewall until there is little to no play in the clutch pedal, but allow the cable to flex back and forth about 1/2 inch at the clutch fork. Replace the inspection cover and you're done. | |