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CPP's Big Brake Kit - Tubular Tutorial Part II
Bring up the rear with a simple and affordable handling and braking package from Classic Performance Products
Last month, we introduced you to the Mini Sub-Frame Kit and integral worm-and-sector Series 400 power steering from Classic Performance Products (CPP). We also showed you how easy it is to get into better handling without getting into big expense. This month, we’re going to show you how to make your suspension and braking system first rate with high-performance disc brakes in all four corners, along with mild rear suspension modifications you can make happen in a matter of hours in your home garage or driveway.
Improvements to handling make little sense if you don’t have the braking necessary to support the increased handling capability and power. CPP’s Big Brake Kit for the 8- and 9-inch Ford rear ends complement the better contact patch and the Mini Sub-Frame suspension already installed on Godwin Osifeso’s ’67 Mustang fastback. In front, CPP is installing the Big Brake Kit sporting super-sized 13-inch cross-drilled, gas slotted, and zinc-coated rotors mounted on upsized ’70-up Ford spindles with twin-piston, heavy-duty powdercoated calipers clamping down. The bigger rotors offer a greater friction surface area giving these binders 60-percent greater bite according to CPP. You’re going to need 17-inch wheels to clear these discs and calipers, and CPP has an easy-to-use wheel template designed to help you make an educated decision if you need to upgrade your wheels or just need to ensure fitment on your current ones.
At the back of the car, we’re installing CPP disc brakes, and the nice thing about this brake kit is if you have an 8-inch Ford axle and plan on upgrading to a 9-inch, you can transfer these brakes to the 9-inch without fitment concerns.
The Cotter Pin
There are a number of schools of thought about how to proper install a cotter pin. However, there is but one right way. Cotter pins have two parts—the long leg and the short leg. The long leg wraps over the stud or bolt end as shown. The short leg gets cut short and hammered down to stay in place, secure the nut, and to prevent injury. Never wrap both legs over the stud or bolt end, nor around the nut’s perimeter.