Muscle Mustangs & Fast FordsHow To Engine
Our One-Day DIY Blower Install
We breathe life into a ’13 5.0 as we go from stock to Roush-boosted in a 10-hour garage endeavor.
Getting the install momentum going, we placed the car on jack stands and removed the front wheels, radiator trim cover, and bumper cover. From there, we moved to the engine bay, removing the plastic engine appearance cover and air tube. Disconnecting the throttle body electrical connector, then the EVAP emission canister purge-valve tube and electrical connector, we removed the PCV purge line and the fuel supply hose from the fuel rail, and the brake booster hose from the intake manifold.
Since our Mustang is an automatic, we disconnected the brake booster vacuum hose and aspirator assembly and set them aside for later use. After removing several miscellaneous lines, we unbolted and removed the stock intake manifold. The directions are straightforward and simple for any weekend warrior.
Next, we removed the factory accessory feed belt and water pump pulley, upper radiator hose, and electric fan and shroud assembly. For removing the A/C compressor belt, it was as simple as cutting the belt itself as it wouldn't be used again. We disconnected two transmission cooler lines and lowered the transmission cooler. Using the brake booster hoses we saved earlier, we trimmed them per Roush's specifications.
Moving on to modifying the front engine cover, we were elated to see that our '13 GT had less webbing on the cover itself than the '11-'12 models. We were required to remove three sections, whereas the previous years of the 5.0 required removing a total of seven pieces. That's a whole lot of cutting.
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Before making our cuts, we covered the entire engine bay with a set of spare bed sheets to keep any metal shavings from getting anywhere they don't belong (see photo). Marking our engine cover where needed with a Sharpie marker, we used an air die-grinder with a cutoff wheel to make our cuts. This simple tool can be found, in electric or air form, at any hardware or Harbor Freight store, and is a necessity for this project.
It was time to start working on the wiring connectors. Roush supplied harness extensions that we used to extend three sensor wires. This is the most tedious (might we even say annoying) and time-consuming part of the install. It's extremely important to pay close attention in order to do this correctly.
The following sensor wires that need to be extended are the throttle position sensor (TPS), canister purge valve, and MAF. We removed one of three connectors from the PCM and removed pin C-56 and spliced one of two ACT loom wires onto it, then replaced the pin in the exact same location. The other wire with the OEM-style pin on the ACT loom was placed in the C-36 location on the same connector. It's always best to double-check this step to prevent related electrical gremlins.
We assembled our Roush heat exchanger and brackets, along with the PCV purge hose onto our supplied lower intake manifold, and then removed the stock EVAP purge valve and installed our new throttle body spacer. From there we installed our Roush de-gas bottle (intercooler reservoir). We extended the trans cooler lines with the supplied hoses and hardware, and zip-tied them out of the way to keep the engine bay clean and clutter free.
The next steps seemed to go quickly as we did all the necessary procedures beforehand. First, we mounted the heat exchanger and the intercooler pump, and ran all the hoses to complete the intercooling process. It took both JD and Adam working together to place the lower intake manifold onto the engine. The fuel rails and injectors were then torqued down to Roush's specs. Again, using both of their hands, they placed 2.3 liters of TVS boosted badness onto the manifold and torqued it down—Roush supplies all the necessary torque specs. We then installed the throttle spacer and twin 60mm throttle body along with all hoses and connectors.
Next was the Roush FEAD (front engine accessory drive) system. Using hardware that came on the original engine cover, we installed the upper FEAD bracket and idler pulleys. We placed our supplied belt on the available pulleys and installed the lower bracket with a tensioner. Using a 17mm socket and ratchet, we pulled on the tensioner, which gave us enough slack to completely install the drive belt onto the supercharger. After installing the water-pump pulley, we reinstalled the other belt. A clear diagram illustration of the belt routings is in the instructions.